Looking to buy a night vision dash cam

Kanakaman

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I drive A LOT on dark, forested roads at night with lots of deer and critters crossing the road in front of me. I've spend several hours online looking for a solution for my night driving issues. From what I can tell there are. two versions of "night vision": one with an apparent Sony high resolution camera mounted inside the vehicle but doesn't have IR capabilities (facing forwards) and the other option is the IR with the camera mounted outside of the vehicle. I drive a lot in snow and fog too, and I am thinking anything mounted on the outside in the winter would quickly get road film on it in a matter of miles and pretty much be useless. Is the internal camera comparable to the infra red mounted on the outside in a situation with zero ambient light? Can anyone offer any comparative experiences between the two types?
 
I drive A LOT on dark, forested roads at night with lots of deer and critters crossing the road in front of me. I've spend several hours online looking for a solution for my night driving issues. From what I can tell there are. two versions of "night vision": one with an apparent Sony high resolution camera mounted inside the vehicle but doesn't have IR capabilities (facing forwards) and the other option is the IR with the camera mounted outside of the vehicle. I drive a lot in snow and fog too, and I am thinking anything mounted on the outside in the winter would quickly get road film on it in a matter of miles and pretty much be useless. Is the internal camera comparable to the infra red mounted on the outside in a situation with zero ambient light? Can anyone offer any comparative experiences between the two types?
With further research I think I answered my own question.... it appears IR would have too many issues including: weather issues (cold rain, snow interfering with the image), outside mounting would invite road film on lens during weather events, so it looks like I will look into a cam that has the Starvis 2 camera mounted inside the heated cabin. Another quick question: do any of the cams allow live streaming to an iPhone or android? It appears with the camera mounted near the rear view mirror- in order to see it- you need to take your eyes off the road. I like the idea of the Lanmodo camera (but it uses old technology) with the separate screen mounted in front of the driver close to the dash, so I would use an old iPhone or android screen and be looking over the night vision image while I was driving. It sure would be cool if someone designed some sort of clear screen that would stick to the windshield that would display the night vision image....
 
Cameras record light, for a camera to work in the dark, it needs to have some lamps to illuminate things, normally people use their headlamps, and then there is no issue with the dark, if you don't have headlamps then you could fit some IR lamps, but then your eyes would not work without looking at the camera screen.

Can you clarify what you want to achieve? Are you going to be using normal headlamps? If so then an inside dashcam using a Starvis 2 image sensor is recommended, but it is not clear why you would want to drive by watching an image on a screen instead of looking out the window?
 
Welcome to the forum Kanakaman.

There are NO dashcams with IR light for aid, well at least not beside a few diodes beside the lens that will probably just blind the camera itself with reflections in the glass in front of it and have a range no longer than the front of your car.
Generally these cameras as all considered NOT worth buying / or at least i have never seen a good one in over a decade now.

For IR to work you will need a dedicated light source, or probably more, CUZ while a little 5W will have some throw if the beam is kept together, then you also want some flood for things up closer.
MY CCTV camera have 6 IR emitters flanking the lens, working in pairs they have different lenses on them, so the further i zoom in the lights change or more come on with their different lens properties.

You can get say 10 W IR lights and also ones you can focus, i have one somewhere.

The best option would probably be to go thermal, but then you can not have the camera inside of the car, and so you end up with something like this kickstarter ( and do note the minimal resolution of both thermal and CCD sensors )

So while its gadget score are HIGH, also not a system i can recommend.



PS: you can get 4K thermal sensors like seen in some scopes for hunting, BUT the price then will be off the hook.
But there are not really any small details we can lock onto in the thermal range, i am sure a licence plate is uniform in its temperature.
 
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You can get say 10 W IR lights and also ones you can focus, i have one somewhere.
10W is not very much for a headlamp, but even 10W in a focused IR lamp is enough to give potential for permanent eye damage. IR headlamps should not be used on the road!
 
Also i have actually been there in a experiment a decade ago, connecting a analog sensitive camera to my car head unit, and then use its 7" screen.
BUT it is highly dangerous to drive like that, depth perception are all gone and it will take some getting used to, but i could drive on reasonable strait roads and keep to my lane sort of OK

What is needed is a HUD ( Heads Up Display ) at the least, that when we talk Display and not just a few matrix dots that stuff get expensive.
Also want smarts really so it is not on all the time but just pop up.

It would be cool if a larger part of the windscreen could be argumentet reality display, but then if you get a crack and need to change windscreen the price would probably be 2000 dollars for a new one installed.

PS: I have old tires eyes, so while i prefer to not drive at night, then i will do it if need be.
 
My M8 just gotten a scope strap on camera, its build in 5W "laser " light will literally totally blind the camera itself illuminating everything at 30 M.

My IR light for my night scope ( Oneleaf NV500 ) it is also focusable but between dot ficus and all zoomed out the starvis sensor in my scope do not see very much difference in the light, i suppose as it change exposure.

I can film in 4K 120 FPS in night mode though it is not recommended by the maker, but plenty of light for that, using a little flashlight with one 18650 battery in it.
 
Actually i have a recording i can share later on B&W night mode 120 FPS, but right now i need to get pants on and go shopping.
 
Do you guys know anything about the Thinkware U3000? It looks like it does everything. It has the Starvis 2 camera and allows the hooking up of a front IR camera too.
Also i have actually been there in a experiment a decade ago, connecting a analog sensitive camera to my car head unit, and then use its 7" screen.
BUT it is highly dangerous to drive like that, depth perception are all gone and it will take some getting used to, but i could drive on reasonable strait roads and keep to my lane sort of OK

What is needed is a HUD ( Heads Up Display ) at the least, that when we talk Display and not just a few matrix dots that stuff get expensive.
Also want smarts really so it is not on all the time but just pop up.

It would be cool if a larger part of the windscreen could be argumentet reality display, but then if you get a crack and need to change windscreen the price would probably be 2000 dollars for a new one installed.

PS: I have old tires eyes, so while i prefer to not drive at night, then i will do it if need be.
You and I are on the same wavelength. I would love to see some sort of peel-on heads up display that would only be as high as the part of the windscreen where you see the hood- that way you are still looking forward and you just need to drop your eyes a little bit to see the screen of the camera. I've never driven with a dash cam, and I assume the little projector window on the camera is not for the driver to see the live action as it would be very dangerous to take your eyes off the road. THAT is why I want some sort of screen located right in front of my eyes, so I am just slightly looking over it to see the improved night-time vision.
 
Yeah dashcam screens are just for doing settings, and lining it up when you install it, though here i will recommend wifi stream of live view to phone to get a better / larger picture.
No problem having the system wired ( power ) for this part.
There are a few dashcams with " large " 3-4 " screens, and finally there is the mirror cameras, that can be really wide, but these mirror cameras do not see much traction.

Today the premium systems are using the Starvis 2 sensoprs from Sony, these have model # IMX678 for 4K and IMX675 for1440p sensors.
But on a dark rural road, well all you are going to see in the footage is what is lit up by the headlights.

The Thinkware IR camera is for filming the interior, and here 4 little LEDs are most often fine.
Thinkware also have the smarts like 4G connectivity if you throw in a SIM card, but the trade off for all smart cameras seem to be they are not the best in Image quality, not piss poor either but there do seem to be a trend.
 
In the old days some would have a AV out, you could connect a LCD screen to, but that is just SD resolution.
Using a dashcam for reversing is possible with a few remarks.

There is no direction and distance lines in the footage.
Also if the rear camera is in the rear window of your sedan or truck, well the boot / bed will block a lot so 4 kids could be sitting on the ground behind your car and play and you would not see.
Reversing cameras are much down focus, where as dashcams are more strait out the back focus / aim
I drive a small almost micro JAP 5 door hatchback, so i have a vertical and almost flat rear end, so aiming a rear camera a bit too much down i could get reversing camera coverage even if the camera are at the top of the rear window, where reversing cameras are often low and on the bumper or back of the car.
 
Yeah dashcam screens are just for doing settings, and lining it up when you install it, though here i will recommend wifi stream of live view to phone to get a better / larger picture.
No problem having the system wired ( power ) for this part.
There are a few dashcams with " large " 3-4 " screens, and finally there is the mirror cameras, that can be really wide, but these mirror cameras do not see much traction.

Today the premium systems are using the Starvis 2 sensoprs from Sony, these have model # IMX678 for 4K and IMX675 for1440p sensors.
But on a dark rural road, well all you are going to see in the footage is what is lit up by the headlights.

The Thinkware IR camera is for filming the interior, and here 4 little LEDs are most often fine.
Thinkware also have the smarts like 4G connectivity if you throw in a SIM card, but the trade off for all smart cameras seem to be they are not the best in Image quality, not piss poor either but there do seem to be a trend.
Went to thinkware website and they sell an exterior IR camera for $129 along with exterior side view IR cameras too. I may have to give them a call tomorrow to get the scoop on how their system works. On the U3000 page it says the smart phone has "remote live view" which sounds to me like it is streaming. I'll call tomorrow to see what the story is.
 
I am not familiar / personal experience with that brand, but @Vortex Radar on here and youtube have tested those and compared to other too.
 
Yeah dashcam screens are just for doing settings, and lining it up when you install it, though here i will recommend wifi stream of live view to phone to get a better / larger picture.
No problem having the system wired ( power ) for this part.
There are a few dashcams with " large " 3-4 " screens, and finally there is the mirror cameras, that can be really wide, but these mirror cameras do not see much traction.

Today the premium systems are using the Starvis 2 sensoprs from Sony, these have model # IMX678 for 4K and IMX675 for1440p sensors.
But on a dark rural road, well all you are going to see in the footage is what is lit up by the headlights.

The Thinkware IR camera is for filming the interior, and here 4 little LEDs are most often fine.
Thinkware also have the smarts like 4G connectivity if you throw in a SIM card, but the trade off for all smart cameras seem to be they are not the best in Image quality, not piss poor either but there do seem to be a trend.
I am not familiar / personal experience with that brand, but @Vortex Radar on here and youtube have tested those and compared to other too.
Are you suggesting that on a moonless night the Starvis 2 won't be much help, but if there is any moon it may help a bit?
 
well it depend.

If we talk static things then using any camera you can just tweak the exposure time ASO, and get nice pictures, i like myself to take pictures at night with my Nikon DSLr camera.
A little moonlight do not hurt here.

tumblr_oudw9kjIaT1wxv8ejo6_1280.jpg


But moving stuff have its limits CUZ then you cant go lower than your frame rate so to capture 30 FPS video you need at least 1:30 second to expose every frame, and that is very short VS 10-20 seconds exposure you can use in low light photography
So you do not capture much light, and so to get brighter footage you need a more light sensitive sensor, this is achieved with technology but mainly the size of the pixel on the sensor itself.
The Sony starvis 2 sensoprs have 3-4 micron pixels, though still very small VS the 12 - 18 micron pixels in thermal cameras.

Another modern trick used often in phone cameras are to bin pixels, this often bin 4 pixels into one virtual pixel, so for instance my phone shoot 64 Mpix photos in the daylight, but at night it bin 4 in 1 and so i only get 12 megapixel night photos.
But there are no dashcam i know of that use pixel binning, in the phones the pixels are also very small in order to fit so many on a relative small place, so binning to create a larger more sensitive pixel is the way to go.

Dahscams still use fairly small sensors, unlike DSLr cameras and other stuff which can be huge sensors, but often the light sensitivity is equal or lower CUZ they cram in a hell of a lot pixels so the phone junkies can do their pixel race.

you can do nice time lapse " recordings" that look like video when played back, but each frame are still many senconds long in exposure, so only fairly slow things can be filmed or very distant things like stars.

Like this 12 hour long take.

 
Are you suggesting that on a moonless night the Starvis 2 won't be much help, but if there is any moon it may help a bit?
Most dashcams have the exposure set up for driving with headlamps on, so it makes no difference if there is a moon or not.
A Starvis sensor can just about see by starlight if you count Venus as a star, but no dashcam will use the necessary exposure time, since at car speeds there would be far too much motion blur, and dashcams are designed for use in cars.

Why are you trying to drive without headlamps turned on?

If you turn your headlamps on then a Starvis 2 dashcam will see, moon or not will make no difference, IR or not will make no difference unless it is IR of dangerous brightness, and if you have your headlamps on then you don't need to drive by watching a screen because you can just look out the window!
 
you can do nice time lapse " recordings" that look like video when played back, but each frame are still many senconds long in exposure, so only fairly slow things can be filmed or very distant things like stars.

Like this 12 hour long take.
Nice, if only it would stop raining and the clouds would disappear!
The only clear nights I have seen this year were spoilt by a bright moon.
 
In this video in the start you can see viofos super night visiom time lapse parking guard mode, here i think the viofo bump the exposure a lot higher than the other cameras ( judging by blur on basketball when you pause video )

But if the other cameras record with 1:30 second exposure time, even if it could potentially be 1 full second, just with 1 second exposure it would just be 1 big blur CUZ the guy still move a lot and the ball for sure do.

But it look all nice and dandy, but say you are parked curb side and use this, and a car pull your mirror off but just keep going, fat chance you will have a identifying plate capture CUZ the car would just be a blur and you cant probably even tell the make / model from the one photo.


To get that much difference in brightness in regular recordings, Viofo would have to use a secret sensor or some fancy snamcy trickery, but i think it is just exposure time allowed to run a bit more free in this case, so maybe a 1:10 exposure time, which would be 3 X longer than if the other cameras are stuck on 1:30 second exposure time.

getting to longer exposures, like say 1:2 second, well even a baby crawling on a floor would have motion blur CUZ it would be moving too fast for that exposure.
 
@kamkar @Kanakaman

There is an option you may have missed but I'm not sure if it suits what you are trying to do but worth mentioning I figured.

The Viofo A329 has an HDMI port (Not sure its output res. My simple test showed low res on my 4K TV.)
If the camera is suitable then you could attached a HDMI cable to any size screen you need which may help with your night time driving question.

It really sounds like a night scope is what you really need. Not IR type but the image intensifiers type.
 
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