Garmin DashCam 20

[Shaolin718]

So I have had the dashcam 20 for about two weeks or so now. I have to say I love it! The quality is pretty good but like others have said it is tough to ready license plates from it. I have it hard wired however I used a longer usb cable but every time the car starts it wants to mount it as mass storage. There is a way to access the developer menu on their gps' although when I contacted support they did not know the answer. Any sugestions?

 

[Pirate515]

From the short time I owned it, I've noticed the same about the cable. When I plugged in the included cable, it started recording immediately; when I plugged in generic USB cable, it wanted to go into mass storage (although when I said no it still recorded and charged with no issues). I think Garmin does not like people using third-party cables and that's why it behaves this way. They do sell a loner (5-meter I believe) cable if you want to run it through the car, but it still plugs into cigarette lighter. I'm sure if you mod this cable for hardwiring, it will behave the exact same way as before.

I did not know there was a developer menu. Any ideas what options you can change if you can get into it? I returned Garmin mainly due to poor video quality (I think due to lower bitrate compared to other dash cams that I tried), but if there is a way to increase it, I'd be willing to give Garmin another try. If you do find a way to get into developer menu, please keep us posted and let us know. I do not think Garmin will ever tell you how to get in there though as I'm pretty sure they don't want end users messing with it.

 

[Heiko]

The Garmin DashCam 10 and 20 (as well as many Garmin Nüvi navigation systems) require a charger with a special pinout. I use my new Garmin DashCam 20 with a modified DataKam Car Charger, but any modified USB car charger will do as long as it comes with a long enough cable and max output of at least 2A.
All you need is a solder iron, a solderable miniUSB-plug with 5-pins (make sure it has 5 solderable pins, many gconnectors are 4-pin!) a 18KΩ resistor (0,1W will do) and set of heat shrink tubes in different sizes for isolation and as "case".
The resistor needs to be soldered to pin 4 (ID) and 5 (GND). Charger +5V goes to pin 1 and Charger GND goes to pin 5.
The exact pin out is shown here: http://pinoutsguide.com/GPS/garmin_nuvi_power_pinout.shtml.

Proof of Concept (here without its metal case, just for testing):


Properly soldered, isolated and assembled:

 

[WoodburyMan]

Just purchased a Garmin Dash Cam 35. Confirmed to have the same power issue where it asks for USB Mode on startup as the Dash Cam 20 and Nuvi units. Using a add a fuse USB mini kit to run power from a fuse panel. Thank you for the info. This is so annoying that Garmin does this. Likewise they do not sell a hardwire kit themselves.

Are there any premade kits / small extension cables anywhere for purchase that have already been modified? I can attempt to purchase a small extension cable and cut it myself and splice it and add the resister with the solderable USB mini-b plug, but my soldering skills are not up to far and its been some years since I've done it.

 

[jokiin]

Just purchased a Garmin Dash Cam 35. Confirmed to have the same power issue where it asks for USB Mode on startup as the Dash Cam 20 and Nuvi units. Using a add a fuse USB mini kit to run power from a fuse panel. Thank you for the info. This is so annoying that Garmin does this. Likewise they do not sell a hardwire kit themselves.

Are there any premade kits / small extension cables anywhere for purchase that have already been modified? I can attempt to purchase a small extension cable and cut it myself and splice it and add the resister with the solderable USB mini-b plug, but my soldering skills are not up to far and its been some years since I've done it.

just hardwire a female lighter socket and use the included power lead

 

[WoodburyMan]

just hardwire a female lighter socket and use the included power lead

I would, however I already had a ACC switched 5v MiniUSB wire run directly to it. Also, the length of the included adapter along with added bulk of a female lighter socket and adapter, it's not viable. The female socket and adapter bulk would not fit in my A piller or headliner for discrete mounting. I have enough space to add a small extension cord I would make, 6in or so.

Everything works with it, however every startup I have to press the down arrow and "ok' button for it to start recording. The Dash Cam 35 is also VERY good day and night quality. I got the thing dirt cheap too, it's $200 retail, but managed to get it for $70 with some coupons and rewards points I had that were about to expire. If I hadn't purchased it already I would probably grab a street guardian.

 

[charlottefocker]

The Garmin DashCam 10 and 20 (as well as many Garmin Nüvi navigation systems) require a charger with a special pinout. I use my new Garmin DashCam 20 with a modified DataKam Car Charger, but any modified USB car charger will do as long as it comes with a long enough cable and max output of at least 2A.
All you need is a solder iron, a solderable miniUSB-plug with 5-pins (make sure it has 5 solderable pins, many gconnectors are 4-pin!) a 18KΩ resistor (0,1W will do) and set of heat shrink tubes in different sizes for isolation and as "case".
The resistor needs to be soldered to pin 4 (ID) and 5 (GND). Charger +5V goes to pin 1 and Charger GND goes to pin 5.
The exact pin out is shown here: http://pinoutsguide.com/GPS/garmin_nuvi_power_pinout.shtml.

Proof of Concept (here without its metal case, just for testing):
View attachment 4837

Properly soldered, isolated and assembled:
View attachment 4838

Your POC works? I would like to try it. I want to install it on the rear windshield and run the usb wire to the front. Thank you for the pictures.