Camera power supply

Maffew

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Hello,

New here - Nevertheless I've got a VW GOLF and the beauty and hindrance of this thing is that my 12v lighter socket never turns off. I wouldn't mind too much but leaving the camera in all the time, even when you take the keys out would drain my battery pretty quickly I presume. (Ever since leaving my headlights dimmed for 8hours and draining the battery I refuse to make a mistake again) I'm unsure of what the best option here is, I unplug it everyday and have to re-plug it in, which isn't too much of an issue although I've almost forgot to do so a few times.

I did contemplate some form of battery power in which I get the mini usb from the camera plugged into a usb battery pack of some sort and charged it from the car whenever I was driving (not sure how well this would work). Any suggestions would be great.
 
Get your lighter socket converted to an accessory switched power source is maybe the neatest way
 
For those with 12V sockets that are always on, here is a dual USB charger that you can switch on and off. It also has the USB ports on the side instead of on the end.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/B00LJT2EPK
 
It all depends on how active the area is where you park at night. The more active the more files are recorded thus the more battery power used. The avearge dash cam in parking mode over night will not drain your battery to the point the car will not start unless in the winter when all batteries under perform. Here is a link of 3 of the most popular battery packs designed for dash cams.

http://www.blackboxmycar.com/collections/dashcam-battery-pack


I have the Lukas and the Cellink on 2 BlackVue cameras. One BlackVue is mine and the other is one I am testing so I wanted to have a battery pack on both. The Lukas is good for the person that leaves their car parked over night and drives an hour to and from work. The Lukas needs a good 2 hours a day to charge if drained all the way. The Cellink will last at least 2 days if drained all the way and requires just under 2 hours to fully charge it. The beauty of the Cellink is it lasts longer and charges faster so even if you park your car overnight in a very busy area the Cellink will always have the power to keep your dash cam running.

Good luck with the option you chose.
 
Get your lighter socket converted to an accessory switched power source is maybe the neatest way
Some cars just require moving a fuse from one location to another.

If that's not doable then you can use a fuse tap like:

Hardwire0.jpg

Cut of the round crimp connector, replace it by a spade type crimp connector with a spade the same size as the fuse legs, remove the original lighter socket fuse and insert it in the top of the fuse tap, place the fuse tap in place of a fuse switched by the ignition, place the removed fuse in the bottom of the fuse tap and insert the new spade connecter into the output end of the original lighter fuse socket.
 
Some cars just require moving a fuse from one location to another.

If that's not doable then you can use a fuse tap like:

Hardwire0.jpg

Cut of the round crimp connector, replace it by a spade type crimp connector with a spade the same size as the fuse legs, remove the original lighter socket fuse and insert it in the top of the fuse tap, place the fuse tap in place of a fuse switched by the ignition, place the removed fuse in the bottom of the fuse tap and insert the new spade connecter into the output end of the original lighter fuse socket.
there are mini,medium,large sized end to fit for different car models,not compatible for all car models.
 
Cut of the round crimp connector, replace it by a spade type crimp connector with a spade the same size as the fuse legs, ...
Wow, you sure come up with some interesting DIY solutions! Right up there with MacGyver but he would have used his paperclip in there somewhere. :D
 
If you use a fuse tap, find the fuse for your radio and tap on there. With today's automotive computer systems, drawing power from any other circuit can conceivably leave that system underpowered and cause car problems. Fuse taps will void your car warranty too.

Another good reason to tap in at the radio is that those car computers cause a lot of electrical noise in the wiring and the radio circuit is filtered against that noise. You're assured of clean power there which protects you cam circuitry.

Also consider what may happen if your tap shorts out and the fuse blows- losing the radio while driving won't harm you but losing the engine, lights, or wipers might kill you.
 
A hardwiring kit is one option...

https://www.joovuu.com/gb/car-accessories-/108-car-camera-hardwire-kit.html

This sort of thing is also available off eBay.

If you use a fuse tap, find the fuse for your radio and tap on there. With today's automotive computer systems, drawing power from any other circuit can conceivably leave that system underpowered and cause car problems. Fuse taps will void your car warranty too.

Another good reason to tap in at the radio is that those car computers cause a lot of electrical noise in the wiring and the radio circuit is filtered against that noise. You're assured of clean power there which protects you cam circuitry.

Also consider what may happen if your tap shorts out and the fuse blows- losing the radio while driving won't harm you but losing the engine, lights, or wipers might kill you.

I believe in virtually all cars the radio circuit is a switched circuit (not "always-on") and therefore, if using that circuit, he would not be able to record after he shuts off his engine which would be the whole idea behind hard-wiring to any circuit to begin with: to record all night via Parking Mode.
 
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