petepete
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- Aug 16, 2014
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very small 60AH battery on my car, running an alarm.
19 hours ago i measured my battery voltage at 12.29v and the cameras had racked up a combined 100 plus hours constant recording with the screen off at that point.
car has not been driven since and today with a further combined 38 hours recording the battery measures 12.25v.
Posts here might lead you to believe it necessary to use a powerpack, but the evidence i have seen and you are quite capable of seeing for yourself confirms at least 5 1/2 days recording is possible leaving capacity to start a car despite a very small battery and would also save the cost of a voltage cut off device that will not see action until well after 5 days has passed ....but maybe advisable to use one in winter months when a battery naturally responds to low temperature and cannot store its temperature rated capacity.
I hope this lays to rest the perpetuated myth that a dashcam running from a parked car is not a viable security option and more use is made of the camera from a security point of view - Its been my experience as much damage is likely to be done when the car is parked and its satisfying to know the culprit will leave his details in future.
Not sure if i posted up the cicuit to wire a couple of cameras to automatically switch to constant recording mode from ignition with an option to switch only parking mode off , but it if i did it is better placed below...
As the ignition is switched off and the relay de activates - there is NO loss of footage recorded and the system continues to record on the file it was using.
http://screencast.com/t/1zRx7qiGSp
I have since added a diode across the positive and negative of the relay actioning circuit to disipate residual current generated as the relay deactivates. (some relays are sold with this pre fitted.)
( figures quoted using 2 g1wh cameras and although i cant find any manufactures "normal declaration of wattage while in use" for electrical products, it is very easy to measure the current drawn and calculate and as a referance the g1wh uses 230ma (2.6 ish watts) with the screen displaying and a dam sight less (unmeasured) with just the screen off )
This is intended as a work around for the pitfalls mentioned on the forum when it comes to using the motion detector setting and insures you dont miss any action. It is also useful to keep an eye on other vehicles on a driveway.
19 hours ago i measured my battery voltage at 12.29v and the cameras had racked up a combined 100 plus hours constant recording with the screen off at that point.
car has not been driven since and today with a further combined 38 hours recording the battery measures 12.25v.
Posts here might lead you to believe it necessary to use a powerpack, but the evidence i have seen and you are quite capable of seeing for yourself confirms at least 5 1/2 days recording is possible leaving capacity to start a car despite a very small battery and would also save the cost of a voltage cut off device that will not see action until well after 5 days has passed ....but maybe advisable to use one in winter months when a battery naturally responds to low temperature and cannot store its temperature rated capacity.
I hope this lays to rest the perpetuated myth that a dashcam running from a parked car is not a viable security option and more use is made of the camera from a security point of view - Its been my experience as much damage is likely to be done when the car is parked and its satisfying to know the culprit will leave his details in future.
Not sure if i posted up the cicuit to wire a couple of cameras to automatically switch to constant recording mode from ignition with an option to switch only parking mode off , but it if i did it is better placed below...
As the ignition is switched off and the relay de activates - there is NO loss of footage recorded and the system continues to record on the file it was using.
http://screencast.com/t/1zRx7qiGSp
I have since added a diode across the positive and negative of the relay actioning circuit to disipate residual current generated as the relay deactivates. (some relays are sold with this pre fitted.)
( figures quoted using 2 g1wh cameras and although i cant find any manufactures "normal declaration of wattage while in use" for electrical products, it is very easy to measure the current drawn and calculate and as a referance the g1wh uses 230ma (2.6 ish watts) with the screen displaying and a dam sight less (unmeasured) with just the screen off )
This is intended as a work around for the pitfalls mentioned on the forum when it comes to using the motion detector setting and insures you dont miss any action. It is also useful to keep an eye on other vehicles on a driveway.
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