Cowon AW1 (AW2 ). Inside. Disassembly. Lens focusing.

niko

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I have decided to look inside my Cowon AW1 ( AW2 must be the same )
Also, just in case tried as an assurance I wanted to "re-focus" lens and see how well they are focused. After my "re-fucusing" test I must say that the lens on my AW1 were well focused from factory, but those who might want to perform Cowon AW1 lens focusing, you might find some useful tips ( photos ).


The built and assembly quality is truly at high-end level, no complaints at all. They have used 3-layer PCB structure and fitted all needed hardware into one "capsule"-look body, hence the name of this range: "Auto Capsule"

Cowon AW1 uses Processor (CPU)TMS320DM368 ” from TI ( Texas Instruments )
CMOS Sensor is OV2710 from Omnivision
Battery: 3.7V 0.4W 95mAh

Inside Cowon AW1 (1).jpg

Inside Cowon AW1 (2).jpg
Inside Cowon AW1 (3).jpg

Inside Cowon AW1 (4).jpg

Inside Cowon AW1 (5).jpg


CPU : “TMS320DM368” from TI

Inside Cowon AW1 (6).jpg


Lens are glued to the lens housing / holder with thick layer of special glue.
Usually ( with other dashcameras, which have only few drops of glue ) I scrape off it with some sharp tools like flat-head mini-screwdriver or needle, but it was very hard to use same technique on AW1, so I had to use hot-air soldering station.

Inside Cowon AW1 (7).jpg


I am using AOYUE 968A.

Inside Cowon AW1 (8).jpg


Attached smallest available nozzle to hot-air gun and tried to melt lens housing glue, but process was inefficient and took a lot of time, so I changed to soldering iron, melted glue and scrape off excess.
After that I have marked focusing "points" on lens and housing and started "re-focusing" test, but as mentioned at the beginning, focus on AW1 was perfectly good from factory. So it was just an assurance test to make sure everything is OK.

Inside Cowon AW1 (9).jpg
 
I realise this is a very old post but I am needing to change the battery in my AW1 (came with the car) what is the trick to getting the pill casing off? I assume it has to be turned to a certain position to get past the swivel channel but not sure which position as i don't want to break it by forcing it too much. Any help would be very welcome.
 
I did it today, lined up the notch on the black rubber casing with the "lever" indentation on the silver capsule underneath that does the ratcheting and just pulled until it popped off. You will need to apply some strength and it may look like too much, but it pops off without damage.
 
Thanks anaxtasio managed it a few weeks ago, and you are right, with the right amount of force it just popped off. Cheers for responding.
 
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