In good engineering practice there will be a fuse located as close to a wire's power source as is practical.
You can't get closer than a fuse-tap but if that isn't practical an inline fuse will also work fine as long as it's as close as is practical too. The fuse should be sized to the expected load, but to
never exceed the capability of the wire itself. For reasons of reliability, rather than an exact load match going up one fuse size is usually best. No dashcams need more than 1.5A, so a 2A fuse is ideal. Those can be hard to find locally sometimes so you can also use a 5A fuse to equal effect- either will blow before wiring gets hot enough to do any damage
Now here is where some HWK's and some people make a simple mistake- the
ACC or switched wire also needs to be fused similarly! It can short out too and
without a fuse here that will blow the car fuse you're tapped into, which is what we're trying to avoid It doesn't matter that it normally carries almost no current; we're protecting against the abnormal and not the normal. Again, any fuse less than the wire's capability will do fine, and if you can get one fuse for the BAT side you can get another of equal size for here at the same time
Best practice is to also fuse the ground wire at a rating equal to or less than the BAT fuse. Why? Because
if the car ever loses ground somewhere else, the electricity will seek another path which can be right through the device you're installing which will destroy it But I don't do this with anything less than very expensive devices because the chances of experiencing this type of failure mode are extremely small, and most of today's cars have multiple redundant ground paths for high current loads already to protect the car's equipment
reducing the chances of a failure like this to almost nothing. And if it happens to you, the cam is going to be the cheapest of all the things getting damaged
I've only heard of two instances of this kind of failure causing collateral damage in over 40 years of working with cars and electronics.. Your car itself isn't wired this way so I say don't bother. Just be sure that what seems to be a good grounding point really is that way, and don't worry about it
Phil