Dear FotoBoomer277,
I agree with
@dash riposki,
@Nigel,
@DT MI,
Instead of coming up with a solution, you’re adding a layer of unnecessary complexity that will further take your attention, and eyes off the road ahead.
Since around 2005 new cars with driver aids like, lane departure warning, automatic emergency braking, automatic parallel parking, blindspot waring,
automatic cruise control were implemented with the intention of improving overall road safety. In practice they’ve accomplished in producing lazy, inattentive drivers that rely on a computer to drive the car.
You are in the driver’s seat. You are holding the steering wheel. You are the only thing that’s responsible for the safe operation of your vehicle. If you’re unable to pilot your automobile safely without the use of driver aids like a night vision camera, nothing will. I apologize if that sounds demeaning, disrespectful, or combative but I feel strongly about keeping as much technology OUT of cars as possible. I think the only “computer controlled” safety features we really need are ABS & Dual Air Bags, (maybe stability control / traction control).
I have the same concern as you.
I drive an old 2004 Ford Crown Victoria.
It has the worst designed, and dimmest headlamp assemblies of any car I ever owned over since 1990.
The headlight bulbs are 9007 / HB5 size.
55W Low Beam / 65 High Beam standard halogen bulb.
The color temperature is the 3000K dingy yellow color.
I’ve tested over 40 different brands, and types of headlight bulbs ranging from “High Performance Off Road Halogen 80W / 100W” to LED replacement bulbs.
I have not tested and HID systems.
What I’ve learned is a basic $40 set of LED replacement headlight bulbs is a HUGE improvement in Low Beam lighting. The hard part is finding a type / style of LED Bulb that works in your factory OEM headlamp assembly, and can be adjusted properly without blinding oncoming traffic, and has no spillover. There are literally 1,000 LED headlight bulbs on Amazon. Unfortunately it requires a lot of buy, try, and return to find the correct bulb for your car. Also, keep in mind there are no DOT Approved LED Replacement Bulbs for ON ROAD use. All of them are illegal for use on public roads, and highways. Does everyone do it anyway? Yes.
Do Police & Law Enforcement know the difference between DOT Approved headlamp bulbs, and illegal LED’s? No, (unless there blue, green, red, purple, etc.).
The reason I said a $40 set of LED bulbs are a HUGE improvement to “Low Beam” lighting is because LED headlight bulbs are incapable of illuminating the Low Beam, and High Beam “filament” simultaneously like halogen bulbs. So what that means is when you hit the high beams on a set of LED headlamp bulbs, the Low Beam “filament” turns off, to allow the high beam “filament” to come on. If both Low / High circuits were illuminated simultaneously the LED bulbs would overheat in just a few seconds to a minute.
So “my” solution for “my” application is to add an auxiliary light source that ONLY illuminates when the High Beams are engaged. My home State’s vehicle code laws are very clear when it comes to auxiliary lighting. Basically what matters what is the height that it’s mounted on the vehicle, and how it’s wired into the vehicle electrical system.
Basically anything mounted on the roof, or higher than 42 inches from the ground is defined as “OFF ROAD” lighting, and may never be illuminated on public roads & highways at anytime, and must also be covered when the vehicle is driven on any public road, or highway. That’s why you saw big trucks in the 70’s 80’s & 90’s with those KC light covers on the lights mounted on the roof of pickup trucks. The second vehicle code regulation has to do with how the light is wired for operation.
Auxiliary Lamps;
CVC 24402 Any motor vehicle may be equipped with no more than two auxiliary driving lamps mounted on the front at a minimum height of 16 inches, and a maximum of 42 inches from the ground. Auxiliary driving lamps are designed for supplementing high beam headlamps, and MAY NOT be lighted with low beam headlamps. (1959)
Off-Road Lamps;
CVC 24411 Any motor vehicle may be equipped with no more than 8 lamps for use as HEADLAMPS while being operated or driven OFF THE HIGHWAY.
The lamps shall be mounted at a minimum height of 16 inches from the ground, and a maximum of 12 inches ABOVE the top of the passenger compartment.
Lamps shall be wired independently of all other lighting circuits.
Whenever the vehicle is operated or driven ON A HIGHWAY, lamps shall be covered, and turned off. (1986)
The vehicle code is also clear when high beams may be illuminated;
High Beams;
CVC 24409. During darkness the driver shall use a distribution of light directed high enough to reveal persons, and vehicles at a safe distance in advance of the vehicle, subject to the following limitations;
(a) Whenever the driver approaches an oncoming vehicle within 500 feet, he shall use the lowermost distribution of light so aimed that the glaring rays ARE NOT projected into the eyes of the oncoming driver
(b) Whenever the driver follows another vehicle within 300 feet, he shall use the lowermost distribution of light specified in this article. (1965)
So on my car the “AUXILIARY” light is mounted behind the front grill, and is wired to ONLY function when the high beams are engaged. I wired it up so it operates automatically when I pull back, or push forward the factory multifunction switch / turn signal stalk. I’ll put a link to what this looks like at the bottom. I engage the high beams at 0:43 mark in the video. I disengage the high beams at 1:48 so the motorist can “pass on the right” lol
At 2:28 I re-engage the high beams.
So I spent $40 on a set of LED replacement headlight bulbs, and $60 on an LED Light Bar to improve my forward lighting system, and now I love driving my old 2004 car at tonight.
-Chuck
