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@chmcke01
Most cams use 5VDC via a USB converter, and those can be powered by a "hardwire kit" (HWK) which is tapped into the car fusebox. This also switches most cams between parking and driving modes automatically for you. Based on the car battery size and condition, and the cam being used, you might get 8-9 hours runtime thought the usual is about half that (or less) before the HWK low-voltage protection kicks in and stops the cam from draining the battery so much the car won't start.
Another solution is to use a powerbank of adequate size to run the cam when parked. Use only good quality ones as any Lithium battery technology can be a problem in a hot car parked in summertime. The best way for this is to have 2 powerbanks and have one charging at home while the other is in the car ready to go. Some are purpose-made for this use like the "Cellink" device.
If you've got a big enough car battery and are willing to lose a good bit of it's service life you can power a cam without a HWK or any form of low-voltage protection. I run a 2-channel cam this way recording normally and continuously, but my van has a very large battery and is never parked for more than 10 hours before I take at least a 30 minute drive which recharges the battery.
This does void cam warranties but using parking modes won't. My guess is that I'm losing 15%-20% which for my battery works out to somewhere around $0.25 per day; a price I'll happily pay for my cam's constant protection.
Hope something in this is workable for you and that the vandal(s) get their due!
Phil