No hazard light fuse - anyone hardwired their dashcam for a Holden Spark?

[Stratus]

Got a new to us Holden Spark and for the time being I'm stumped. Turns out there's no hazard or indictor fuse. The car also uses micro blade fuses and physically there isn't enough room room to use piggy back fuses even when I do find a slot which is always hot. Seems technology has overtaken me ...

Anyone have suggestions on hardwiring a 2016 Holden Spark?

Thank you

 

[Michael23]

Hi,
As I do not own a Holden Spark, I've just tried a search for your model, (2016), so see if anything on this page helps you out at all.

Good luck.
Link >

Fuse Box Diagram Holden Spark (MP; 2016-2020)

Fuse box diagrams (location and assignment of electrical fuses and relays) for Holden Spark (MP; 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020).

tinyurl.com

(As per usual, the Google search results are way too long to post, so I reduced it via the tiny URL site.)

If you cannot find anything relevant, I suggest you wait for someone who may know where to pick power from...safely.

 

[Finnegan]

This may or may not apply to your vehicle - my truck has a separate fuse for the light
under the hood. I left the hood up for 3 hours to prove it would not shut off and
I used that for my 12v power. Maybe a trunk light or similar fuse/circuit?

Also, check Amazon or your local auto parts store for a piggy-back. My cam came
with micro piggy-backs but I don't think they were the smallest.

Good luck!

 

[LeeShadow]

Since they have the same width and thickness blades, mini-blade fuse taps will also fit into micro slots and can provide the added height needed to not interfere with surrounding fuses and also seat in the slot more firmly. I learned this when I was having that issue in my engine fuse box for some front grille lights. That solution worked perfectly for me.

 

[Stratus]

Thanks all. So I abandoned tapping via the engine bay fuses and used in-cabin fuses. Specifically the engine room fuses are "mini blade low profile" and the cabin ones are the "mini" (had to rewire and get new fuse taps as didn't check first 🙄). For parking mode I used one of the BCM slots (always hot) and for switched the auxillary power slot.

My Blackvue DR750x has an inbuilt low battery cutoff but according to Blackvue this only works with the hazards fuse. No one (including Blackvue) has ever been able to explain why it only works with the hazard fuse but reason why I searched high and low for the hazard fuse first. Hopefully I won't get a flat battery...

 

[LeeShadow]

My Blackvue DR750x has an inbuilt low battery cutoff but according to Blackvue this only works with the hazards fuse. No one (including Blackvue) has ever been able to explain why it only works with the hazard fuse but reason why I searched high and low for the hazard fuse first. Hopefully I won't get a flat battery...

I had a DR750X Plus 2CH previously and it only required the usual always-on and switched power connections for the LVC function to work. Are those directions from BV specific to your vehicle? I do see in online 750x installation instructions that BV states "After removing fuse panel cover, find a fuse that powers on when engine is turned on (ex. cigarette lighter socket, audio, etc) and another fuse that remains powered on after the engine is turned off (ex. hazard light, interior light)", but those are just suggestions.

My current Mazda has zero switched fuses inside the vehicle. Originally tapped into upper console sunroof wiring but now have a BV battery for the front wired by an adapter harness into the back of the dash 12v accessory socket.

 

[Stratus]

"Note To use battery saver feature, connect the BATT+ cable to the hazard light fuse". These are the generic BV wiring instructions packaged with the camera and from online support. I did write to BV customer support in Korea but the response didn't provide any precision (admittedly there could be a language hurdle so this is no critic of BV support).

To my practical mind the camera can't differentiate whether BATT+ is connected to the hazard fuse or any other always hot fuse. Likewise and not being any sort of electrician or engineer I can only follow the instructions to be certain of the outcome (ie a properly functioning LVC).

I hate messy overly wrong wiring and have tried tapping into various wires in the past (3 cars with this camera). The switched mode is relatively easily (yes back of the 12v accessory socket is a good choice and did also consider the unused pre-installed sunroof wiring on one car). However parking mode was always unreliable for reasons I could never figure out so always reverted back to the hazard fuse for BATT+ and other switched fuses for ACC wire as a result.

Cheers