U3000 Current Draw

[safedrivesolutions]

This is in relation to final production Thinkware U3000 current draw.
All testing is done with a power supply on my bench at 13.8 Volts.
Front and Rear Testing

Continuous Recording
395-400ma

Parking Recording Current Draw

Energy Saving Mode
9ma

Radar Mode
16ma

Motion Detection
260-270ma

Time Lapse
230-250ma

 

[Panzer Platform]

Yo Ben,
Great info.
What is the make, and model of your power supply?
Any chance you can perform all future power consumption testing at 12.60 Volts?
Also, it will be more helpful to the average consumer to include Watts, along with mA, (V x A = W) or 12.60 Volts x 500mA = 6.3 Watts.
You may also want to include the camera’s firmware at the time of testing.
Also, are you relying on the power supply for measurement readings, or do you also have a multimeter in-line?
Have a look at Robert’s color coded industry standard power consumption charts.
-Chuck

 

[safedrivesolutions]

I use a Snap On EEDM525ECF multimeter. The industry I came from has always focused on ma. But I can adjust to watts if needed.

The power supply I use is nothing fancy Pyramid PSV 150. Regulated at 13.8 volts.

If I get another power supply. The main thing I was after was Low Battery Protection testing. I want to be able to adjust the voltage and test if it shuts off when dropping below set voltage. Does this DC Power supply allow for adjustable voltage?

FYI I have always tested for current draw on every dash cam. All the ones I carry have always came out the same. So i did not bother on A139 Pro. Then I seen Robert test for current draw and was like OMG. Instantly had it on the bench to verify his results. I do have some videos from early on before I had any kind of real subscribers.

 

[Panzer Platform]

The industry I came from has always focused on ma

Me too, I have never used Watts before I came to DCT @Nigel gave me a stern talking to, and convinced me to add Watts to my testing, and it makes is easier for everyone to understand. Also, I don’t mean replacing Amps with Watts, I mean using BOTH.
Also, milliamps is expresses as mA, (lowercase m, Capitol A).
I take punctuation serious. Lol

If I get another power supply. The main thing I was after was Low Battery Protection testing. I want to be able to adjust the voltage and test if it shuts off when dropping below set voltage. Does this DC Power supply allow for adjustable voltage?

Yes.
The Voltage is adjustable from 0-30V.
The Amperage is adjustable from 0-10A.
I emailed you the details.
-Chuck

 

[safedrivesolutions]

Me too, I have never used Watts before I came to DCT @Nigel gave me a stern talking to, and convinced me to add Watts to my testing, and it makes is easier for everyone to understand. Also, I don’t mean replacing Amps with Watts, I mean using BOTH.
Also, milliamps is expresses as mA, (lowercase m, Capitol A).
I take punctuation serious. Lol


Yes.
The Voltage is adjustable from 0-30V.
The Amperage is adjustable from 0-10A.
I emailed you the details.
-Chuck

I already ordered one power supply it will be here today. Thanks for the email. I will make sure to Ma and wATTS for you.

 

[LateralNW]

I have never used Watts before I came to DCT @Nigel gave me a stern talking to, and convinced me to add Watts to my testing, and it makes is easier for everyone to understand.

First off what has happened to Nigel last seen 18th of April he hasn't been on for ages. I thought he might be doing a world trip or something over xmas. That's just my imagination playing around.

@safedrivesolutions

I feel i have to call out the use of watts.
Watts is very misleading as assumptions are made when voltage and amps are not included.
When the voltage is different, the power consumption of a device can vary. For example, if you have two devices with the same power rating (in watts), but one operates at a higher voltage than the other, the current required for each device to deliver the same power will be different.

Hence misleading.

When you are using watts for household devices usually they all operate at the same voltage from the GPO so it makes sense but this isn't the case with dashcams.

It's easy to think they all run at 12volts but there others that use 5 volts and even 9 volts.

Every time I see watts as the only measure I instinctively search for the voltage and the current to get the full picture.

If your selling fridges and washing machines then use watts but for car equipment i don't see the point.

 

[safedrivesolutions]

Hence misleading.

When you are using watts for household devices usually they all operate at the same voltage from the GPO so it makes sense but this isn't the case with dashcams.

It's easy to think they all run at 12volts but there others that use 5 volts and even 9 volts.

Every time I see watts as the only measure I instinctively search for the voltage and the current to get the full picture.

If your selling fridges and washing machines then use watts but for car equipment i don't see the point.

Whoever is doing testing, should be testing the current draw from the 12 volt lines. Even on a hardwire cable from Viofo there is constant power, ignition, and ground that all get hooked up to 12 volts. I do not test current draw at 5 volt portion of connector.

 

[LateralNW]

Whoever is doing testing, should be testing the current draw from the 12 volt lines. Even on a hardwire cable from Viofo there is constant power, ignition, and ground that all get hooked up to 12 volts. I do not test current draw at 5 volt portion of connector.

Sure use the 12 volt lines but what voltage is the car delivering?
It will be different depending on many factors.
When doing tests the numbers that are published should be accurate.
Some cars don't use 12volts so that assumption won't work.

Consider these vehicle voltages that are current today 6, 12, 16, 24
So watts alone won't help in these cases.

Cheers

 

[Panzer Platform]

@LateralNW is hitting on some very important issues.
I would like to offer an explanation why I suggested performing all future power consumption testing at 12.60 Volts, instead of 14.40 Volts (engine running).

Usually most consumers want to know the power consumption of a dash cam so they can calculate how long it will run in parking mode using a hardwire kit that has low voltage shut off connected to their vehicle battery, or dedicated dash cam battery pack. That means in this type of scenario the engine is off, and not running.

When I’m gathering power consumption data it would be more accurate to conduct two sets of tests.
One at 12.60 Volts (engine off).
One at 14.40 Volts (engine running).
However this would take a lot more time.
So in an effort to simplify our testing lives I suggested to @rcg530 that we perform all power consumption testing at 12.60 Volts since that is the majority of consumer use, (parking mode engine off).

Back to the Nigel thing.
When I started testing dash cams here on DCT last year I was only publishing the Voltage & Amperage data for my measurements. Nigel made a very good point about also including the Wattage in the test data measurements because it makes it easier to interpret so a consumer can calculate how long a dash cam will run on a dash cam battery pack. Because it’s much easier to do the math with Watt Hours & Watts, instead of converting the Amperage measurements. Clear as mud? lol
-Chuck

 

[LateralNW]

@LateralNW is hitting on some very important issues.
I would like to offer an explanation why I suggested performing all future power consumption testing at 12.60 Volts, instead of 14.40 Volts (engine running).

Usually most consumers want to know the power consumption of a dash cam so they can calculate how long it will run in parking mode using a hardwire kit that has low voltage shut off connected to their vehicle battery, or dedicated dash cam battery pack. That means in this type of scenario the engine is off, and not running.

When I’m gathering power consumption data it would be more accurate to conduct two sets of tests.
One at 12.60 Volts (engine off).
One at 14.40 Volts (engine running).
However this would take a lot more time.
So in an effort to simplify our testing lives I suggested to @rcg530 that we perform all power consumption testing at 12.60 Volts since that is the majority of consumer use, (parking mode engine off).

Back to the Nigel thing.
When I started testing dash cams here on DCT last year I was only publishing the Voltage & Amperage data for my measurements. Nigel made a very good point about also including the Wattage in the test data measurements because it makes it easier to interpret so a consumer can calculate how long a dash cam will run on a dash cam battery pack. Because it’s much easier to do the math with Watt Hours & Watts, instead of converting the Amperage measurements. Clear as mud? lol
-Chuck

Yeah clear as mud lol

I didn't like it then when he suggested it and didn't challenge him.
I understand it can help but it could also be misleading.
Disclosure:
I'm very analytical, it comes with this brain.
I personally have trouble with generalisations as it is usually used to deceive the unknowing public.

At the end of the day the way things are posted on here or anywhere else is the prerogative of the author.

With the Watts I felt I should mention my opinion so I did, and now I can go back to day dreaming

 

[Panzer Platform]

Yeah clear as mud lol

I didn't like it then when he suggested it and didn't challenge him.
I understand it can help but it could also be misleading.
Disclosure:
I'm very analytical, it comes with this brain.
I personally have trouble with generalisations as it is usually used to deceive the unknowing public.

At the end of the day the way things are posted on here or anywhere else is the prerogative of the author.

With the Watts I felt I should mention my opinion so I did, and now I can go back to day dreaming

Thanks for the feedback.
I would like my test data to be able to be interpreted by everyone.
I’m willing to make adjustments so everyone can benefit.
For example would this be OK?

Mini 2 - Firmware V1.0 20230423
Normal Recording Mode, 2K60fps, Highest Bitrate, Screen Off, Wi-Fi Off
267mA @ 12.60V = 3.36 Watts
Normal Rec, Wi-Fi Off, Screen Off, 2K30fps (HDR On)
218mA @ 12.60V = 2.75 Watts
Low Bitrate Parking Mode, Screen Off, Wi-Fi Off
183mA @ 12.60V = 2.31 Watts

 

[mindjezza]

16ma radar mode , and u got video before and after , this is amazing!