550 Interference with DAB radio?!!

or if you have a 500 or lower in the rear like I did prior to getting the 550
Must be the GPS part as I think it was fine until the GPS light turned on from memory

I'm still waiting for my ferrites so will report once on.
In my case, routing either way has the same issue
 
Tim, have you had any luck with the ferrites?
I've got some time to have a play his weekend, so will try these out, alternatively I'll have to re-route the rear cable :|
 
Hey,

Sorry I thought I had replied on here!!

Yes got my ferrites through. I have noticed a slight improvement with them and also re-routing the cable. I do get some dropouts every now and again. After speaking with a customer of mine I'm going to see what the possibility is of creating a new cable that has some better shielding on it.

Let me know how you get on.
 
hi guys,

a friend bought recently the 550 2CH, he had the same problem with interrupted DAB radio on Channel C5 (218Mhz) on his Audi A4.
I used my SDR to test for interference. Close to the rear cam i got a strong interference from 200 Mhz to 230 Mhz, which kills the DAB reception.

Now i will bought ferrit rings and will tell you the result.
In the video you can clearly see the interference.
 

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pit0711 said:
hi guys,

a friend bought recently the 550 2CH, he had the same problem with interrupted DAB radio on Channel C5 (218Mhz) on his Audi A4.
I used my SDR to test for interference. Close to the rear cam i got a strong interference from 200 Mhz to 230 Mhz, which kills the DAB reception.
Click to expand...

That looks pretty interesting! Good to see some physical proof / results. Do you have any kind of report or export that you can upload to the forum or pass to myself? I want to send the results straight to the tech guys at Pittasoft.
 
Thanks for this thread. I have a complete blackout of my DVB-T TV reception and was about to run to my dealer. Now I know that 550 is the culprit. I have currently run the wires through the roof. Did re-wiring, as mentioned in this thread, mean running them through the floor or the other side of the car. Before I take up this, wanted to be sure that it makes a difference.

Bit-rate issue and now interference. I have still 2 weeks time to return the device to amazon!!!
 
geh zum conrad und kauf dir 4 stück von denen, lege das kabel 1x in schleife durch die ferrite. wirkt definitiv, am besten nahe an der heckkamera befestigen.
ich werd das beim kumpel die woche noch testen, erster test bracht ein bisschen was.
was hast für ein auto? gruß aus stuggi :)
http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/...-M158-Kabel-min-45-mm-Kabel-max-5-mm?ref=list


english version
go on conrad and buy yourself 4 pieces of them, put the cable through the ferrite loop to 1x. definitely works, best fasten close to the rear camera.
I'll test a week even when the pals, first test brought a little something.
what you have for a car? greeting from stuggi :)
 
pit0711 said:
go on conrad and buy yourself 4 pieces of them, put the cable through the ferrite loop to 1x. definitely works, best fasten close to the rear camera.
I'll test a week even when the pals, first test brought a little something.
what you have for a car? greeting from stuggi :)
Click to expand...

Thanks for this info. Did this completely remove the problem, or made it better only.
 
I have a BMW 5 Series F10. I did added 3 ferrite loops and rewired to place the camera at the bottom of the rear glass (instead of earlier top position). The problem has not disappeared completely but is definitely better now. Looks like I will have to live with it.
 
Absolutely no interference when I disconnect the rear cam and let the front cam run
 
Couldn't say for sure but if the lead is just a USB cable it could be acting like an antenna

For remote cameras we use mini HDMI rather than USB as the shielded cables work better at reducing any chances of interference, we found a lot of induced noise if using USB cables, the longer the cable the greater the problem
 
It is a coaxial cable thats connecting the front cam to the rear cam. It seems to be not good shielded.
 
Nirmal said:
It is a coaxial cable thats connecting the front cam to the rear cam. It seems to be not good shielded.
Click to expand...

yeah I haven't seen what they use, I know some others that use USB and that's a problem if the cable is long, perhaps the shielding they've used isn't good enough for the task
 
with 5 ferrits (total cost 8€) it looks like the problem is gone.
at the pictures you see a quick and dirty solution :)

IMG_1971.jpg IMG_1972.jpg IMG_1973.jpg
 
Is it necessary to make a loop around the ferrit or is it enough if the wire is passed through the ferrit?
 
it is highly recommend to add one or two loops through the ferrit.
with one loop you triple up the effect.
 
pit0711 said:
it is highly recommend to add one or two loops through the ferrit.
with one loop you triple up the effect.
Click to expand...
I see you've put some on the power cable too? is that necessary?

I'm finally back home and have time to go fetch some ferrites to try this, just want to know if I should get some for the power cable too?!
 
Nirmal said:
Could you please let me know the diameter of the Ferrits you used. The ones I bought seems too small to make a loop
Click to expand...

try a 7mm, like this one:
http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/...bel-min-65-mm-Kabel-max-7-mm?ref=searchDetail

RacingSnake said:
I see you've put some on the power cable too? is that necessary?

I'm finally back home and have time to go fetch some ferrites to try this, just want to know if I should get some for the power cable too?!
Click to expand...

I dont know, try it, maybe it helps :)
 
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