F750 parking mode - how long should it last?

Cookey09

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Hi guys. I've noticed my f750 dual cam (hardwired) in parking mode isn't recording for longer than an hour??
I have my cut off voltage set at 11.9v, blue recording light turned off, motion detection off, files to automatically overwrite so I don't have to manually delete them and the actual parking mode sesntivity set at medium. I've found it doesn't last longer than an hour...
Can anyone give me any advice?
What could I be doing wrong?
I'd like my camera to last at least 3-4hours?
Many thanks. Cookey.
 
11.9v at the camera could be a lot higher at the battery, need to check it with a multi meter and see what reading you get at the camera compared to the battery
 
It has been this way ever since I wired it up...
I'm using 10AMP fuses in the piggybacks? Could that be the reason? Should I use less?
 
doesn't matter when you installed it, fuse size has nothing to do with it, you need to measure the voltage
 
11.9v at the camera could be a lot higher at the battery, need to check it with a multi meter and see what reading you get at the camera compared to the battery
Ah right I get you! I'll check midday tomorrow, I've got the multimeter I'll have a play around with that...
It's really annoying me this issue because I'm reading other people complain when there's cuts off after 48hours of inactivity.
 
doesn't matter when you installed it, fuse size has nothing to do with it, you need to measure the voltage
So measuring the voltage the battery gives off when parked? Would tell me if there's a mismatch in camera to car?
What happens if this isn't the case?
 
battery size obviously plays a part as well, 1 hour suggests you can set a lower voltage at the camera as there is some loss between the battery and where you have pulled power from
 
So measuring the voltage the battery gives off when parked? Would tell me if there's a mismatch in camera to car?
What happens if this isn't the case?

measure the battery when the camera cuts off and see what reading you get, doubting it's going to be at 11.9v, if it is you're probably going to be up for a new battery soon
 
Will do, annoying aswell with my car only being 2years old from new?
 
Hopefully I guess..
Is there a way to find out why there is some loss from the battery and the fuse slot I'm powering from?
 
Hopefully I guess..
Is there a way to find out why there is some loss from the battery and the fuse slot I'm powering from?

it's as much to do with how accurately (or not) the camera reads the voltage versus what you have at the battery, it's a camera, not a Fluke DMM
 
I think Jokiin is probably right. Only other thing coming to mind is if the permanent power supply wire you have used is shutting down after an hour or so which is possible. Some circuits on newer cars do that to save power when they are parked for sometime.
 
Cookey, what is the function of the circuit (fuse) you have tapped into for permanent power? In my experience it would be highly unlikely for there to be a big difference between the potential at that point and the battery.

Anyway your comment in #3 implies that something has changed? Your car may only be 2 years old but if it has stop/start technology and you have been regularly draining it to 11.9V then possibly it is nearing the end of its serviceable life.

BTW the purpose of a fuse is to protect the wire in the event of a fault. Far better for the fuse wire to heat up until it vaporises (as it is designed to) rather than the wire to heat up until it starts a fire. I don't know the maximum current rating of the wires you have used but I'd be very surprised if it is over 10 amps.
 
the permanent power supply wire you have used is shutting down after an hour or so which is possible. Some circuits on newer cars do that to save power when they are parked for sometime.
I agree with this answer.

enjoy,
Mtz
 
Hopefully I guess..
Is there a way to find out why there is some loss from the battery and the fuse slot I'm powering from?

sounds a lot like my situation. have a 2.5 year old car and always had camera running in parkmode with cut off at 11.3. (edit: 11.8v )
worked fine for a good 2 years, but it taxed the battery to much and in the end couldn't even get 30 mns of park mode

changed battery and set cutoff at 12.2. for now this gives me 48hrs parkmode with TWO DUAL cams (ie 4cams ttl)

(it's exactly 48hrs so it must be the timer that kicks in rather than the battery dropping below 12.2)
 
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I assume that is a typo and set to 11.8V, not 11.3V?
It is possibly easy to forget that with the dashcam regularly used in parking mode it will be part cycling the battery and this will reduce its lifespan.
When I garage my car I turn my dashcam off rather than let it go into parking mode.
 
Sorry I thought the lowest setting was 11.3.

my typical work week is: 40 mn drive to work / 9hrs in park mode with lots of movement / 40mn drive home / 13hrs park mode underground
So indeed the battery gets heavily taxed and I guess with above scenario is usually not full..

I try to switch the cameras off at work (especially on a Monday just after a weekend), but I don't always remember.

Anyway, having it set to 12.2v now should make a huge difference, plus I get a new car in 6 months so not too worried ;-)

Still thinking of getting 2 Cellinks, but the price puts me off. at 400 eur I might as well have my battery replaced every 2 years...
 
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