PMP vs B-124 battery pack

Bayman

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I currently have the PMP hard wired to power my DR750S-2CH but I was wondering, will the PMP degrade the lifespan of my car battery or will it ever cause my car to not start due to any battery drain issues? If these issues exist it would be enough for me to spend the $300 on the B-124 battery pack.
 
Yes, regular use of the PMP will take a toll on the vehicle battery, that's to be expected
 
Yes, regular use of the PMP will take a toll on the vehicle battery, that's to be expected


Will regular use of the battery pack hardwired also take a toll on the vehicle battery?
 
From an economical view point.. the cost of a new battery every couple of years would be cheaper than purchasing your $300 on the B-124 battery pack. The degradation of the battery from the PMP is a pretty small factor in the bigger picture of everything else that consumes power in a late model car.
 
With a Cellink or B-124, you will also get longer run times on your dash cam.
On a lot of late model vehicles, with all the electronics and everything that's running with a PMP the dash cam may not be powered for too long before the battery depletes.

-Jimmy @ BlackboxMyCar
 
Would you mind to tell me if those batteries need to be connected to a PMP power supply in case you don't want your battery to be drained as soon as it does when you hardwire a B-124 device as a battery for BlacVue's cameras.
Thanks in advance.
 
they don't need to be connected to a PMP, they only charge when the car is running
Why should its live/positive wire need to be hardwired using a 20A fuse? My installers didn't do that and I had some troubles related with this (car battery draining). I'm trying now to improve the best solution (i.e. modify the hardwiring to the power supply mixing the supply of my power battery with a 20A fuse from the fuse box as I've understood the manual says, add a hardwired 20A fuse on the positive/live wire, ...)

Would anyone be kind enough to give me an understandable reason for the purpose of the connection that tells us the manual. Is just that the only way to tell the power battery ignition was switched on?

Thanks in advance.

Enviado desde mi LYA-L29 mediante Tapatalk
 
So it doesn't mind how you connect the live/positive at all. It'll get that current anytime car ignition is detected (DC V >= 13V approx)
In this case do you suggest us to switch the system off in case we drive short distances?
I apologize for my message-bombing related with this issue, but I'm just trying to solve an embarrassing situation. The car brand technical service doesn't agree my battery needs to be replaced and they tell me this consumption is huge for a dash-cam battery installation.
Thank you @jokiin and thank you anyone that could help me in advance.
 
it needs a permanent B+ connection, when the ignition ACC is on it will switch the B+ circuit on and charge the battery, when the ignition ACC is off it will disconnect from the B+ permanent feed, these things are designed to remove your dashcam and any power draw from the battery while the car is off
 
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