The same inaccurate description as
@Nigel's, it depends on what you consider as hot. It will blow "hot" air over "hotter" heatsink to make the heatsink only "hot"...
As long as there is a temperature difference, you can make the heat dissipate. And since "quite accurately" 30-40°C difference was measured, there is a room for improvements (larger area/faster flow).
Well it "depends". In my case, the hottest part of the car would be the windshield, until the rest of the car heats up. So a fan sucking in air from the car's interior and blowing it over the heatsink would be cooler. As the ceramic tint is capturing most of the heat until at some point both the tint and car reach an equal temperature.
On a car without tint, the Windshield and Interior would be about the same. So the fan would be sucking in that same hot air and blowing that same hot air over the heatsink. Whether the camera's CPU and Internal Temperature is hotter than the car interior's ambient air would be the question. It might be somewhat cooler, but I'm not sure enough to make a difference. As it'd be very hot air blown over extremely hot CPU.
No, now you don't get the point. If in a black car A139 fails at about 70°C and doesn't fail in a white car at the same temperature, then colour effectively doesn't matter at that point (not to mention the tint which, according to your description, should shield part of the energy and thus make the camera to not heat that much from Sun as in other cars). One only could point out that the black one needs less time to heat up which could lead to a "heat shock", compared to a white car which heats slower and gives a dashcam more time to "sync the temperature".
This really depends. You'd have to place two cars (white and black) side by side and measure the time it took for the interior cabin to reach the same temperature. There will definitely be a time difference, but how gradual or pronounced, I don't know. As ultimately, the sun is still shining through the windshield into the car. It's the car's body that is going to not get as hot as fast.
I suck at math. I don't know how much heat transfer from the body to the interior equates to the interior cabin warming.
With my car, the variable is the ceramic tint. Yes, I have a dark car (doesn't help), but the tint is the driving factor. The tint is sucking up all the heat. And the camera is sitting on that
very hot tint. Meaning the camera Base and Camera are getting much hotter before the interior of the car.
You could take a White Volvo S60 with 80% front ceramic tint and run same test. See how much a difference there is. Again, I don't know.
Don't you have a something like hole in ozone layer over Sweden, that more energy leaks to heat your dashcam more? That's why I suggest we should rather bake our dashcams in ovens to finally get to some accurate conclusion, instead of temperature and Sun hunting.
The Sun's Rays and UV light are what heat up the car. None the less, I do believe Dash Cam makers run "Over Tests".
If the temperature was higher than 65°C, anything is possible. Unfortunately that was still the time before the meat thermometer.
I'm not sure why you're still pulling this out. Why is it so important? Nobody doubts that your files are getting corrupted.
#57 You had the thermometer sticked into your car's housing, if I recall correctly, and you yourself doubted about the proper placement. That's why I haven't got that measurement into account.
I wouldn't except less.
We're not having to be 100% accurate on the actual temperature. What is important is consistent results. Science is about trying to "Disprove" a result to ultimate determine if the results are valid. I ran this test NUMEROUS times and the results remained the same. Somewhere around 65-67C on the meat thermometer, the car shut off (Camera #1).
On Camera #2, the Camera also shuts off with overheating. Didn't meat thermometer the 2nd one.
Ultimately, what I know from these results is that
once the camera overheats, it improperly exits the last file written. Resulting in Corruption.
Ok then, if even Viofo admitted it, you managed to improve their product. Let's hope it won't be "killing" too soon the units which happen to be capable to run at even higher temperatures. I still have PTSDs from my DR900S...
This is my goal. The whole point of DashCamTalk. To provide companies with real world feedback. Viofo has seen my pictures of the heat thermometer. Viofo has seen that at about 65-67C (guestimated) the camera is shutting off and exiting the last files improperly.
Viofo has acknowledged my findings and stated that they hope this next firmware will address the problem.
65C is the cameras "maximum operating temperature", but not a shutdown temperature. So the camera itself is regulating overheating versus say Viofo's Software telling it to shut down before overheating to prevent corruption.
This is going to be a fine balance. I don't own a heat gun. So even if my car is 65C within the interior, the camera itself could be ANY AMOUNT hotter (80C 90C, etc) due to the ceramic tint and sitting on the windshield.
But the point remains, Viofo should devise a means of making the camera shut down properly before overheating. So you don't lose the last files corrupted.
I hope they will also implement a recovery measure when it cools down.
Remember, I have two units as well, both run simultaneously in one car. One is exposed to sun, the another is not. Both were exposed to 70+°C ambient temperature inside the car. Never encountered the same behaviour as yours.
Again, I 100% agree.
1. Recovery Method On overheat = Important. The camera just shuts down and never returns to life.
2. Properly exiting last file written.
See now we're both thinking on how to improve Viofo's A139!