BP100 New Customer Questions

newdriver9

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Some follow up questions before I make a final decision:
  1. Since I don't drive frequently and my hybrid car can sit for a week or more, is there a preferred way to power the BP 100 when used for parking mode with a dash cam: CLA or hardwiring?
  2. If hardwired, is there a risk the BP 100 could create parasitic draw on the hybrid's battery and eventually require a jump start, especially compared to using CLA power only?
  3. I would still take the BP 100 out of the car occasionally to charge at home so also not sure if disconnecting the BP100/reconnecting it is easier to do based on the installation method of hardwire vs CLA?
 
Welcome to the club @newdriver9

Since I don't drive frequently and my hybrid car can sit for a week or more, is there a preferred way to power the BP 100 when used for parking mode with a dash cam: CLA or hardwiring?
It doesn't matter, whichever you prefer.
If hardwired, is there a risk the BP 100 could create parasitic draw on the hybrid's battery and eventually require a jump start, especially compared to using CLA power only?
No.
I would still take the BP 100 out of the car occasionally to charge at home so also not sure if disconnecting the BP100/reconnecting it is easier to do based on the installation method of hardwire vs CLA?
Hardwire Cable & CLA Cable use the same Input Connector, (it doesn't matter).
 
Thanks @Chuck McCoy. I'm not well versed in car or battery mechanics so for my initial Q2, would you mind explaining how or why there is no concern for parasitic draw if the BP100 is hardwired and used for parking mode? If there was no BP100 and a dash cam was hardwired into a car's fuse box + using parking mode, I know there is a risk of the car battery getting too low and dying. So why wouldn't the same scenario be true if the BP100 was hardwired?
 
The BP100 only gets power from the car to charge it when ignition is turned on, which should not occur during parking mode if wired properly. One of the primary reasons for installing an external battery is to remove the concern of draining the car's battery during parking mode.
 
would you mind explaining how or why there is no concern for parasitic draw if the BP100 is hardwired and used for parking mode?
Hardwire Power Cable has 3 wires, (see attached screenshot).
1.) RED = Constant Power B+
2.) YELLOW = Switched Power (ACC / IGNITION)
3.) BLACK = Ground ⏚

When YELLOW wire is energized, (engine running) BP100 will begin to charge.
When YELLOW wire is not energized, (engine off) there is no current flow to BP100.
See BP100 User Manual for more info;
 

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Thanks for the responses and patience @Hack_man and @Chuck McCoy
  1. Overall then, if my main goal is to protect the car battery and avoid wear and tear as much as possible on the car battery, is there any functional difference (not including ease of installation, charging speed, etc.) between hardwiring vs using the CLA for the BP 100? The BP 100 would presumably only draw Switched power (acc/ignition) regardless of the installation method when the dash cam is using parking mode, is that understanding right?
  2. In the manual's installation picture, there are 3 wires going from the BP 100 to the car fuse box, one of them being the Constant power wire. So if I hardwire the BP 100 instead of powering it via CLA, do I just ignore the Constant/red wire and only use the Ground (black) and Switched power (yellow) wires? Or is Constant power still necessary in some instances?
 
1. My main goal for purchasing external batteries was to avoid wear and tear on my car's battery. Lead acid batteries do not like to be discharged, they live longer lives when kept fully charged. This is in contradiction to adding a dashcam with parking mode which is guaranteed to discharge your battery. LiFePO batteries are capable of being discharged more deeply and more often without degrading nearly as quickly as lead acid. The BP100 does not draw any current from the car battery during parking mode. It draws current from the car's electrical system when the ignition is turned on. If you turn on the ignition but don't start the car, it will draw current but normally you would not be operating that way.

This is the BP100 when the car is not running and ignition is OFF
In this case my BP100 is connected to the CLA (not hardwired).
There is zero input voltage and current. The same should occur when it's hardwired into a vehicle's fuse box.
Maybe someone can show this or I can find one of @rcg530's nifty measurements

IMG_3519.webp


This is the BP100 with the ignition ON but car not running.
Its drawing 4.6A at 10.8V.



IMG_3520.webp



This is the BP100 with the car running.
Its drawing 4.5A at 13V

IMG_3521.webp


2. You asked "In the manual's installation picture, there are 3 wires going from the BP 100 to the car fuse box, one of them being the Constant power wire. So if I hardwire the BP 100 instead of powering it via CLA, do I just ignore the Constant/red wire and only use the Ground (black) and Switched power (yellow) wires? Or is Constant power still necessary in some instances?"

Constant power is absolutely necessary. That's where the charging current comes from. Switch current is a low current signal to command the battery to accept current from the constant current wire. There are some external batteries that have only two wires for hardwiring (switched power and ground) such as my PowerCell 8. This is an inferior method of obtaining current from the car's electrical system since most car's ACC fuses can't handle the extra heavy current demand (10A) of an external battery. By having a third wire (constant power) is allows you to connect to a more robust terminal (the best would be right at the car's battery terminal).

Two extra point not often mentioned: I use the CLA to charge my BP100 and PowerCell 8 for two reasons.

1. I don't want to mess with the fuse block on brand new cars and give a dealer any reason to invalidate a warranty claim (it happens).

2. This point can be argued, and I don't have empirical data to prove it, but by charging the battery at a lower current level using the CLA, it's less stressful on the LiFePo battery which can extend it's life, and the car's alternator is not working as hard at the lower power level. Sure it takes longer to charge the external battery and the only time I have a problem is during below freezing weather when the battery does not charge.
 
The BP100 does not draw any current from the car battery during parking mode.
Thanks @Hack_man for the additional detailed explanations and pictures of the different BP 100 states as this was where I got confused. I initially thought the Constant wire connection would result in parasitic draw, and then mistakenly interpreted the information about switched/ignition power as meaning the BP 100 did not need any Constant connection at all but now I see why I was mistaken.

I recently got a hybrid car (still with factory warranty) with a small battery so I will look to power the BP 100 via CLA to avoid potential issues with both the car battery and the BP 100 battery
 
Thanks @Hack_man for the additional detailed explanations and pictures of the different BP 100 states as this was where I got confused. I initially thought the Constant wire connection would result in parasitic draw, and then mistakenly interpreted the information about switched/ignition power as meaning the BP 100 did not need any Constant connection at all but now I see why I was mistaken.

I recently got a hybrid car (still with factory warranty) with a small battery so I will look to power the BP 100 via CLA to avoid potential issues with both the car battery and the BP 100 battery
I'm definitely not saying you will have any issues if you hardwire. I just didn't want to worry about cranky dealers in the event of a warranty issue and just feel more comfortable not messing with the fuse block. Many here have hardwired with no problem.
 
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I agree with what you're saying and I was leaning toward CLA to begin with for those same reasons, mainly the unlikely-but-possible scenarios of something like a warranty denial if it ever came to it, the EV system being sensitive and throwing out error codes at startup, or having to replace the car battery sooner than expected
 
My hybrid car has the 12V power port in the center console and there isn't any way for me to get the wiring out without it getting clamped on when the console is closed.

A few additional questions about the BP 100 installation:
  1. Can the BP 100 be powered using a USB A or USB C port located in the front of the car using an adapter like this one (https://www.amazon.com/gp/B0F87WNQKB) or would the provided power from the USB port/adapter combination be too weak for the BP 100?
  2. Assuming USB power is insufficient, does anyone have any other suggestions for using the 12V port within the center console without worrying about the wiring getting caught and clamped on? I open and close my center console fairly often

As mentioned earlier in this thread, I'm trying to avoid hardwiring as much as I possibly can in case there end up being any issues with the hybrid battery and I don't want the dealer to "blame" the BP100/dash cam install as the reason for denying work that would otherwise be covered under warranty. I'm guessing I most likely have to decide whether I'm OK with hardwiring or the wiring getting clamped on if I go the CLA route but any thoughts appreciated
 

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Thanks @Chuck McCoy I figured as such. Would you happen to have any suggestions how I can go about solving the center console wiring issue without making modifications like drilling extra holes? Or would you suggest hardwiring the BP 100?
 
Would you happen to have any suggestions how I can go about solving the center console wiring issue without making modifications like drilling extra holes? Or would you suggest hardwiring the BP 100?
The BP100 comes with a Hardwiring Power Input Cable. Are you comfortable connecting that to your interior fuse box without drilling holes? This seems easily reversible, so you can hide it from the dealership and any warranty issues. [Caveat - I just installed my BP100 using its cigarette lighter input. I don't touch the fuse box if I can avoid it.]


bp100-input-Screenshot 2026-06-07 130850.webp
 
Would you happen to have any suggestions how I can go about solving the center console wiring issue without making modifications like drilling extra holes?
What is YEAR/MAKE/MODEL of your car?
 
The BP100 comes with a Hardwiring Power Input Cable. Are you comfortable connecting that to your interior fuse box without drilling holes? This seems easily reversible, so you can hide it from the dealership and any warranty issues. [Caveat - I just installed my BP100 using its cigarette lighter input. I don't touch the fuse box if I can avoid it.]
Same, I also would prefer to avoid connecting anything to the fuse box, see below:
As mentioned earlier in this thread, I'm trying to avoid hardwiring as much as I possibly can in case there end up being any issues with the hybrid battery and I don't want the dealer to "blame" the BP100/dash cam install as the reason for denying work that would otherwise be covered under warranty.


What is YEAR/MAKE/MODEL of your car?
@Chuck McCoy 2026 Camry
 
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Same, I also would prefer to avoid connecting anything to the fuse box, see below:




2026 Camry
I have a RAV4 which has a cigarette lighter port in the rear. I purchased a cigarette lighter extension cable from Amazon and ran the cable under the mats and seats to the front of the car. This way there are no cables or connections on show.
 
@Chuck McCoy Given the information about the make and model, would you have any suggestions?

@Minty Thanks, I wish my 12V port was in the rear or pretty much anywhere else than the current location. Then I would have zero issues going forward with the CLA installation method and wouldn't have needed to ask about USB A/C power. My main concern stems from the 12V location and center console wiring:

Assuming USB power is insufficient, does anyone have any other suggestions for using the 12V port within the center console without worrying about the wiring getting caught and clamped on? I open and close my center console fairly often
 
Given the information about the make and model, would you have any suggestions?
I asked for year/make/model so I could read your Owner's Manual.
I was looking for what Minty just mentioned.
No luck.
 
My hybrid car has the 12V power port in the center console and there isn't any way for me to get the wiring out without it getting clamped on when the console is closed.
How much clearance do you have under the console when it is closed? I ask because might something like this might be low profile enough to close the console cover (you can hide the extra stuff somewhere in the passenger footwell area): https://www.amazon.com/gp/B0BQRD41GH
7105mjSpexL._AC_SL1500_b.webp
 
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