Not sure about this one. Never tried it tbh.Can you just change the default setting even if it doesn't actually appear in the menu thus allowing use of any firmware?
Not sure about this one. Never tried it tbh.Can you just change the default setting even if it doesn't actually appear in the menu thus allowing use of any firmware?
This. I would be fine with having something external to the main camera casing if it made modding and wiring easier and more reliable. I just don't know the electronic voodoo magic math that goes into this stuff. But I know my way around a soldering iron and am willing to follow a guide for a proven and reliable mod.If you mounted the supercaps on the outside of the case, one above and one below the lens, you could have bigger caps so only need two and wouldn't be restricted to those particularly thin ones, you would have no heating problems since they would be in cool outside air, the cameras internal cooling for the processor, lens etc would be better - reduced focus problems in hot conditions and the camera would have a rather interesting look to it once plasticoated or whatever - I think it would look quite good!
ID: 0100 TXTOFFS: 036B VAL: 0 TXT: OFF
ID: 0101 TXTOFFS: 044E VAL: 1 TXT: 10 sec
ID: 0102 TXTOFFS: 0450 VAL: 2 TXT: 30 sec
ID: 0103 TXTOFFS: 0452 VAL: 3 TXT: 2 MIN
ID: 0104 TXTOFFS: 0455 VAL: 4 TXT: 10 MIN
I'd make it 1 second, you want to leave as much power in the cap as possible for the clock etc. in case you leave the car parked up for a few days.Yup! Just figured that out.
It seems from your post that you know the locations. How hard would it be to make a 5 sec setting?
noWould a rechargeable coin cell battery work as they are 3.6v
4.2V is what a lithium battery reaches at full charge. The problem will be that the camera thinks it is charging a lithium battery and is limiting the charging current flowing into it to prevent it overheating and give it a long life, once full it limits the voltage since a lithium battery can't handle more than 4.2V.I'm seeing a max voltage of about 4.21v on the capacitors so I don't think so
....
The problem seems to be getting a full charge during my short (10-20 minute) drives which I can't quite understand.
Since you want it less than the smallest available option in either the menu or hidden menu, it can presumably only be done by hacking the code. I think the A7 Tool will give you the address of the menu value, if you search for where that address is used then you have found the code that converts it into a time, may be quite easy to change, for someone who has the tools, quite likely to be a simple lookup table where you can change one value, then again it may take a lot of time and frustration...Anyone have any idea how to shorten the power off delay any further?
It appears that the problem at present may actually be too much capacitance, the more you have the longer it will take to charge it up if you have a limited charging current. We know it works when full, the problem at the moment is how long it takes to fill.just thinking out loud..
would it not be more practical hardwire and to add 2 wires to the 5 meter supply lead and join them to conectors near the camera that feed to the camera internal conections....
you can then fit as many capacitors as you like or need hidden under the dashboard at the other end ???
Ideally that is true and if super capacitors were officially supported by the camera then that is what you would expect.there's two things you need for this to work, you need the camera to close the file and shutdown as soon as you power off, should happen in around 1 second, the other thing you need is a delayed startup, the caps should be charged before recording commences, with nothing else happening will take 10 seconds or so depending on how empty they are
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