Can't engage Parking Mode

[Gil]

Hi all,

So I finally took the plunge and purchased 2ch f770.
I've installed it all today. Took about 3 hours on my Mitsubishi Outlander 2014 LS.

I used the hardwiring kit and connected the ACC to the Audio fuse, the B+ to the Hazard Warning Flasher and GND using a standard crocodile clip on to one of the screws which is mounted on the chassis next to the fuse panel.

I used this type of fuse connectors:


So, the camera started working once the fuses were in place. I head the camera says "Continuous recording mode". However, I didn't start the car, therefore it should have stated "Parking Mode".

I played around with the settings but I was never able to get the camera to out of "continuous mode" while the car wasn't running.
Shouldn't it engage Parking Mode when on battery?

Here are screenshots of my settings and current firmware:

 

[jokiin]

double check your wiring, some of these have reported to have the wiring the wrong way around, acc is permanent, permanent is acc

 

[Gil]

double check your wiring, some of these have reported to have the wiring the wrong way around, acc is permanent, permanent is acc

This wiring kit has the red wire heat shrink labeled as ACC
The yellow is labeled as Battery.

Even when swapping them, the camera won't go into parking mode.

Anyone, please help.

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[egonvdv]

Did you check the footage overnight to make sure the camera really isn't going into parking mode.

If indeed it doesn't, its means the yellow wire is on a fuse that's always on.

( OR that fuse switches on when you open the car OR switches on when you turn key to "contact"
but in both cases that would not be a problem for the camera to work properly in parkmode)

to test: close/lock your car and wait a while. then check the yellow wire fuse (without opening the car of course. )

To find another fuse: lock car and wait a while. then find a fuse that has NO power on it. once you found one switch on contact or engine
and see if it has power (remember some fuses will still NOT have power, because they are used for the head/tail lights for instance)

 

[Gil]

So I though of using the red wire on the cigarette lighter fuse. This only gets power while car is running.

Yellow wire is on Audio.
Which also means just when the car is running.
I hear the camera beeps when I was driving around.
But no GPS and it was in parking mode...

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[egonvdv]

Red needs to be on a PERMANENT power fuse
Yellow can go stay on audio but only if you are sure this fuse switched off when u lock the car !?

 

[Gil]

But my hardwire kit has the RED as ACC, which means NOT permanent. ACC is for when the engine is on and that is now connected to the window defroster fuse..
The Yellow is labeled as Battery, and is connected to Hazard Light Flasher fuse.

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[egonvdv]

ok, but in your above post you said cigarette lighter not permanent AND radio not permanent...

So you need to double check the fuses. to me it seems both fuses you use are always powered...

And just to be sure: It's your yellow wire that has the little black fuse box on it?

 

[Gil]

Ok, I understand the confusion.
Previous post was just an experiment.
My wire kit is of the new revision which has fuses on both wires.
I asked customer service today and they confirmed it's the new revision with two fuses.
Also, they stated that some kits have the colours reversed.
Red is ACC and on others Red is Battery.
However, they stated that what ever the colour is, the heat shrink on each wire is labeled correctly.


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[egonvdv]

ok so properly check the fuses you use or want to use as I described earlier.
Let me know the results

 

[Gil]

Got it working finally.

I think the problem was a flaky GND connection. Previously I used crocodile/alligator clip. Now I was able to find a screw next to the fuse box and connect the GND to it. I used my voltmeter to make sure it's the car's GND.
Then, Red ACC is connected to the lighter.
Yellow Battery is connected to the Hazard Light Flasher fuse.

Thanks

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[BlackboxMyCar]

Hey @Gil good to see that you got the issue resolved,
I would also recommend checking what voltage the camera is reading. You can see this in the timestamp of the parking mode videos
I see in your settings you have it set at 12.3V cutoff, sometimes there is a bit more voltage loss between the fuse box and the camera and 12.3V can limit the parking recording
E.g., battery is at 12.6V but camera is only reading 12.3V

The best way is to check with a multimeter to see what the battery is at and what the camera is reading so you can set a cutoff voltage that accommodates this voltage loss.
That way if you want a true 12.3V cutoff, but you know the camera is reading 0.2V lower, you could set it to 12.1V without issue.

 

[flip9]

If you want a more accurate voltage reading, run some 18AWG wire directly to the battery for the Battery wire.

Though i found there will always be a 0.1v~ voltage loss from the thin wires of the hardwire kit.

 

[Gil]

Hey @Gil good to see that you got the issue resolved,
I would also recommend checking what voltage the camera is reading. You can see this in the timestamp of the parking mode videos
I see in your settings you have it set at 12.3V cutoff, sometimes there is a bit more voltage loss between the fuse box and the camera and 12.3V can limit the parking recording
E.g., battery is at 12.6V but camera is only reading 12.3V

The best way is to check with a multimeter to see what the battery is at and what the camera is reading so you can set a cutoff voltage that accommodates this voltage loss.
That way if you want a true 12.3V cutoff, but you know the camera is reading 0.2V lower, you could set it to 12.1V without issue.

Hi @BlackboxMyCar and thanks for the reply.

The reading on the video shows 12.6volts +/-0.2, as it fluctuates.

I had already set the cutoff to 12.1v and 6 hours cut off, it enough for my situation.

I also use notion detection and not the time lapse.

I didn't take battery readings yet.



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