Dashcam and Power MagicPro not working as intended

[Albert Cheng]

Sorry for the long thread, but I'm seeking for help on illuminating the issues I'm having with my PMP.

Since installing my dashcam to my vehicle (2016 BMW F30) I've had issues with the dashcam turning on after a certain period of time.

As a background, I've connected my fuse as the following:

- 161 (right rear tail light on a RHD car) for the BATT+ cable. Large fuse tap used for this one.
- 143 (wing mirrors, or anti dazzle or something) for the ACC+ cable. Mini fuse tap used for this one.

The PMP is set to 11.8v and 6 hours.

The issue I'm having is that the PMP switches off after a certain amount of time (haven't timed), but whenever I enter the vehicle the following day the PMP is not lit and would need to manually switch on and off. Even after driving 40 mins or so, it's still off.

I have also updated the firmware yesterday but it doesn't seem to have solve the issue.

 

[BlackVue Australia]

Sorry for the long thread, but I'm seeking for help on illuminating the issues I'm having with my PMP.

Since installing my dashcam to my vehicle (2016 BMW F30) I've had issues with the dashcam turning on after a certain period of time.

As a background, I've connected my fuse as the following:

- 161 (right rear tail light on a RHD car) for the BATT+ cable. Large fuse tap used for this one.
- 143 (wing mirrors, or anti dazzle or something) for the ACC+ cable. Mini fuse tap used for this one.

The PMP is set to 11.8v and 6 hours.

The issue I'm having is that the PMP switches off after a certain amount of time (haven't timed), but whenever I enter the vehicle the following day the PMP is not lit and would need to manually switch on and off. Even after driving 40 mins or so, it's still off.

I have also updated the firmware yesterday but it doesn't seem to have solve the issue.

Hello Albert,

We believe you spoke with one of our customer support staff yesterday,

1. The PMP turns off after a period of time, because the voltage drops below the 11.8V threshold, or the 6hrs has been reached.

2. You have wired the red (acc+) wire, to a constant (batt+) supply. Meaning there is no ignition feed to tell the BlackVue PMP to turn back on, when you start your engine.

Please check the system with a multi-meter to ensure correct installation.

Thank you,

 

[arcticfire]

I had exactly the same problem in my F30 with the PMP just recently. Only recently noticed it because my battery never went low enough to switch it off. I've now installed the Multi Safer battery protect to the same fuse locations and it's working fine. Not sure why the PMP was doing this.

 

[arcticfire]

You could try these fuse locations:

Just installed the Multi Safer successfully and here's the fuse numbers for an F30 BMW:

Yellow which switches to battery and is always on even with ignition off which is a full size blade is fuse location 161. It is hard to see which side is the hot side as they both look like they have contacts. The side on the right is blue and the side on the left is black like the mini sized ones so I assumed it was the left side nearer the centre of the fuse panel.

Red which is ignition only is a Mini blade size and is fuse location 158. The hot side is to your right towards the centre of the fuse panel. The left side has no contacts that I could see.

There's a ground bolt just to the left of the fuse panel which is prefect.

 

[arcticfire]

Here's my thread about my problem:

https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threads/power-magic-poop.17580/

 

[BlackboxMyCar]

If you wired both wires to batt PMP will just keep draining as it doesn't know when you've turned off the car either which is when it activates voltage detection/cutoff so I don't think this is your issue,
Easy way to check is to flick the on/off switch while the car is parked, if your battery is charged up and the car is turned off the green light should turn off in the off position and on in the on position.

Since it's not turning back on when you start your car I would guess that the red wire isn't getting power. Once you start the car and the red (acc) wire gets power that will tell the PMP your car is on and the green light should come on regardless of battery level. Perhaps the wire isn't getting power through the fuse tap, you could test it by wrapping it around the fuse leg just for testing purposes and see if it does come on.

With BMW FXX the consant fuse is always a tricky one. When you first turn off the car most of the fuses are still on and if you use a circuit tester most of them will light up. The trick is to leave your doors/trunk open and wait about 30-40 minutes and the fuses will time out leaving you with a few true constant fuses. This may explain why your PMP is turning off after a short amount of time but doesn't explain why it doesn't start back up when you start your car and requires flicking the switch on/off to restart, for that it would have to be an issue with aforementioned red wire.

 

[arcticfire]

The fuses, add-a-circuits etc checked out fine with my multimeter and the Multi Safer works perfect using the same fuse locations. Bit of a strange one but could have just been a failed component or connection or maybe there's something bmw electrics do that effects these? Going to be installing the same unit in my brothers car soon so will see how it does in that.

I've also got a PMP running in my parents CRV with an ION cam and it works fine.

 

[CDNinHH]

This unit is far superior to the PMP:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/291681961551

 

[arcticfire]

I think it's only 2A total output though and as I run front and rear cameras it would be pushing it. Multi Safer is 8A total.

I'm going to look into the headlights fuse on the bmw because although it's a constant live there may be some sort of power saving function with the car. Don't want to automatically assume it's the PMP that's at fault.

 

[CDNinHH]

I think it's only 2A total output

Ok, yes I see that in their specs, that is interesting. I was referring to the other features when I said superior to the PMP. I have a PMP and wish I would have gotten the VICO, but then I'm only running one camera.

 

[arcticfire]

PMP is also 2A which is the other reason I changed.

 

[arcticfire]

I just started up my BMW with the Multi Safer after being parked up for a week and everything came on fine so the fuse locations I'm using must be fine.

All that's left now is to try the PMP in my brothers car and see if it works in it.

Just thought I'd add that I've had this PMP for many years and it's been constantly used so if it has failed it's not really a big deal, everything goes eventually!

 

[Andy Moore]

This unit is far superior to the PMP:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/291681961551

Looks a decent product

 

[CDNinHH]

Looks a decent product

It has far better options for the drop out voltage than most of the others on the market and I believe it is the only device with a temperature option.

I might just get one anyway and pawn my PMP off on someone else

 

[BlackVue Australia]

This unit is far superior to the PMP:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/291681961551

Yes it is a better quality unit, hence the price increase. However it is still only a voltage cut-off device, a battery is a better option ie. Cellink.

 

[CDNinHH]

Yes it is a better quality unit, hence the price increase. However it is still only a voltage cut-off device, a battery is a better option ie. Cellink.

Yes, but a very expensive option.

 

[Andy Moore]

Worth it in long run for proper protection

 

[Albert Cheng]

Thanks all for the assistance. I was able to resolve the issue on the weekend. What I have done was that the additional fuse blade was not installed, meaning only the OEM fuse blade was installed but the accessory blade was missing thus not finishing the circuit.

Hope that make sense!