DSLR vs dashcam

[Outbacknomad]

If you have some old Mamiya 645 lenses, stick them on your Canon. You can buy an adaptor, but I made this one out of some parts from dead lenses. There are a few very nice Mamiya lenses that become more than a door stop.

 

[Dashmellow]

I have PC shift lenses for my Nikons which along with a view camera was the only way to control perspective back in the day. Nowadays, you can control perspective on a computer with ease but controlling perspective in-camera to begin with seems to provide more pleasing results.

 

[SawMaster]

Geez, I was impressed with my Instamatic until now 🤣

At least the way you folks talk about this allows me to learn a few things along the way 🙂 Thanks, and please carry on 👍

Phil

 

[Dashmellow]

Geez, I was impressed with my Instamatic until now 🤣

At least the way you folks talk about this allows me to learn a few things along the way 🙂 Thanks, and please carry on 👍

Phil

PC (perspective control) lenses are pretty cool. You can adjust perspective, for example, to keep the lines of a building or a room perfectly vertical and with some lenses you can also tilt the perspective to alter near-far focus.

 

[Outbacknomad]

Nowadays, you can control perspective on a computer with ease but controlling perspective in-camera to begin with seems to provide more pleasing results.

I have always said, get it right in the camera. You can spend a bit more time getting it right at the time, which generally is enjoyable, or spend a lot more time trying to fix something later which is not always possible or at best it is pretty second rate. Personally I would rather not be sitting behind a computer.

These days cameras have plenty of resolution. If one wants vertical lines on buildings. Use a wider angle lens, set the camera vertical and square to the scene, then simply crop off the bottom of the image. You will have an image without buildings falling over & it take 30 second to crop.

 

[Dashmellow]

I have always said, get it right in the camera. You can spend a bit more time getting it right at the time, which generally is enjoyable, or spend a lot more time trying to fix something later which is not always possible or at best it is pretty second rate. Personally I would rather not be sitting behind a computer.

These days cameras have plenty of resolution. If one wants vertical lines on buildings. Use a wider angle lens, set the camera vertical and square to the scene, then simply crop off the bottom of the image. You will have an image without buildings falling over & it take 30 second to crop.

We think alike! 🙂

 

[kamkar]

I am contemplating getting a nice beefy tripod with a solid ball joint,,,,, but to shoot my gun from not any of my cameras.
But these are rather not cheap, so that idea will have to linger on the back burner while i shoot off my bipod or bags.

Something like this.

 

[Outbacknomad]

Before you rush out and buy another tripod, hang a heavy weight from the one you have. The camera bag or a container of water will do, or a watermelon in a shopping bag! Use some double sided Velcro to make some hanging points/loops.

 

[kamkar]

I know, but my tripod are a more than dirt cheap one, but it do indeed have a hook for a weight, and i have used it with a few 0.5 L sodas in a plastic bag for weight ( i would not hang 5 KG from it, it is that cheap )
My friend actually have a Manfretto one, but it have been sitting outside for years for some reason, so i would not hedge a bet on its legs being operative now, and i would hate to stand up and shoot all the time.

 

[Dashmellow]

I am contemplating getting a nice beefy tripod with a solid ball joint,,,,, but to shoot my gun from not any of my cameras.
But these are rather not cheap, so that idea will have to linger on the back burner while i shoot off my bipod or bags.

Something like this.

As I recall, you have an air rifle, not an actual firearm. As far as I know, an air rifle wouldn't have the range or accuracy to warrant a set-up like we see in your photo where someone might be picking off targets 500-1000 yards out. Maybe I'm missing something? Please enlighten me on what you want this for.

 

[Outbacknomad]

A bag of rice sitting on the camera will help reduce vibrations.

 

[kamkar]

No with .177 i only expect to get groups about 2- 3 inches at 100 Yards, and that on a dead calm day, shooting slugs i might be able to narrow that a bit due to their better "BC" ( but ammo shortage also hit airgun pellet and slugs bad )
If i can get permission to update to .25 or .30 next year, i should be able to get pretty decent groups.

This is a fellow dane shooting 100 M.

Ultimately i want to hit what i aim at, a golf ball at 200 M sound reasonable to me, but maybe start out with a tennis ball, you be amazed what a puny air rifle can do nowadays, many rim fire shooters have some around to the air bandwagon.
Bench rest and field target seem popular in the US, it barely exist here though i think now there is a chance to shoot field target in the town of Aalborg north of me, but then i would have to dial my gun back to 1/4 - 1/3 of its power as only low power are shot here.

A lot cheaper than the powder burners, and good wholesome fun.

 

[Dashmellow]

100 meters is pretty good. But did he use a tripod?

I sight my 30.06 Remington 7400 carbine in at 100 meters. No tripod, but I use a wedged leather sandbag. I have a perfect 100 yard shot off my deck to the edge of the woods behind my pond. Friends are always asking if they can come over before deer season to sight in their rifles. Always a fun day! Beer and barbecue follows.

 

[kamkar]

No he have a shed with a nice bench he shoot from just with a bipod, and i think a bag under the butt of the gun.
If we get my friends place set up, well that will be just fine too, but that is shooting from our shed where the berm is 55 M or so, but you can shoot a bit off to the side and another berm and shoot about 90 M.
But you can also relocate to 2 other positions at my friends place and shoot about 150 M and just shy of 200 M shooting diagonal across his fields,,,,,, and those 2 last positions is why i like to go up in caliber.
There s a few clubs here with a 100 M range, i dont think 200 M exist anymore, but all of them i am sure are not welcoming air shooters for some reason,,,, at least not on the long ranges, you can get to shoot 10 M in a heartbeat with a rifle or pistol, but then we talk iron sights and shooter vests and harnesses ASO, and i dont want to nerd out that way.

Aussie ( of course ) taking 30.06 really out there, even if it is like a 4 X 4 foot target, it is not king of 2 miles, but a damn though shot for a 30.06 i think, really need to have a eye on your parameters to not just spray lead out there in the hope of getting lucky.

Pretty gnarly when you can light up a ciggy before the bullet hit the target. 😱

 

[Dashmellow]

30.06 is a powerful round. My Remington semi-auto carbine is like holding a cannon to your shoulder!

 

[kamkar]

I had a 338 Lapua mag once when i was a young naughty boy, but when you do not have a hunting permit it is next to impossible to get ammo.

The Danish forces, maybe just the special ones use a Finnish Sako chambered for 338 Lapua mag, only 50 cal we have here is the M 2 i think.

 

[Nigel]

If you have 3D software you can project an image onto any shape and then render an image of that shape from any angle. Even through a shift lens. Before people had heaps of computing power it was the only way to divide up an image and render it on multiple computers to speed a job up.

You can, and people have been projecting maps of a spherical earth onto flat paper for centuries, but we still have most maps showing Greenland as being huge for its actual size! The images always come out distorted in some way or other. For normal photography it is not an issue because you are photoing a very small part of the sphere, so there is a very small amount of distortion, but when you get to the field of view of a dashcam it is significant, and projecting straight lines to appear straight when projected onto a flat screen is not necessarily the correct thing to do. Even worse if you go to a full 360 degree view, although most people view them a section at a time, as might be sensible in a dashcam viewer.

 

[Outbacknomad]

Just to shift the topic a bit back to actual cameras! Here is a photo of the transit of Venus. Extremely lucky to get this shot as we had cloud virtually all of the time and further more I definitely won't be around for the next transit. 300mm + 1.4x + 2x extenders + 4 layers of solar film.

 

[Nigel]

Just to shift the topic a bit back to actual cameras! Here is a photo of the transit of Venus. Extremely lucky to get this shot as we had cloud virtually all of the time and further more I definitely won't be around for the next transit. 300mm + 1.4x + 2x extenders + 4 layers of solar film.
View attachment 57235

Using a dashcam, you would need to use a telescope to project the image, then video the projected image, not too difficult to match that quality...