G1W-H Folder Structure

Error7

Error7

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Location
Kearsley, Bolton, Manchester
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Dash Cam
Mobius - 808 #16 4 x G1W-H - 2 x 70mai
My first G1W arrived yesterday, 14 days after I ordered it from banggood. I'm very pleased with it but it does have a couple of niggles.

The first 2 tests I did with it resulted in quite a loud audio hum which stopped inexplicably part way through the second test. You can hear that here: (the hum stops 60 seconds in)

The other niggle is the folder structure. The camera creates these folders CARDV\MOVIE and writes most of the files within MOVIE. However, it also created another sub-folder called RO and writes some of the files, quite randomly, into CARDV\MOVIE\RO.
 
Error7 said:
My first G1W arrived yesterday, 14 days after I ordered it from banggood. I'm very pleased with it but it does have a couple of niggles.

The first 2 tests I did with it resulted in quite a loud audio hum which stopped inexplicably part way through the second test. You can hear that here: (the hum stops 60 seconds in)

The other niggle is the folder structure. The camera creates these folders CARDV\MOVIE and writes most of the files within MOVIE. However, it also created another sub-folder called RO and writes some of the files, quite randomly, into CARDV\MOVIE\RO.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I just realised that while I was sat down eating my lunch. :)
 
I thought all these cameras created the same folders, that is "DCIM\100+Folder date" for the normal recording and "DCIM\100+Folder date" plus ABCDEFG folder for the manually protected files. Apparently, when you have the G-Sensor function activated the camera creates different folders, and I say "apparently" because it can also be yet another model from yet another manufacturer with a different firmware that creates folders with different names.
 
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Error7 said:
The first 2 tests I did with it resulted in quite a loud audio hum which stopped inexplicably part way through the second test. You can hear that here: (the hum stops 60 seconds in)
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Whatever was interfering with the camera, either inside the car or the garage, stopped working at 1 min. Only you can say if that was something that turned off automatically or was turned off by you. Mind you, it most likely wasn't something captured by the mic, so you have to consider some kind of electrical or radio interference.
 
Module 79L said:
Whatever was interfering with the camera, either inside the car or the garage, stopped working at 1 min. Only you can say if that was something that turned off automatically or was turned off by you. Mind you, it most likely wasn't something captured by the mic, so you have to consider some kind of electrical or radio interference.
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It was definately something generated by the camera. I have another clip on YouTube which was filmed from inside the house and that has exactly the same noise. Even though this clip is called Example 02 it was recorded before the other clip :D
 
In both cases, were you recording with battery power or with an external power source?
 
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Well, in that case let's hope, whatever it was, it ended at the 60 seconds of the first video. :D
 
The pulsing buzzing sounds you are reporting are EXACTLY the same audio phenomenon I experienced as part of the DIY super-capacitor mod I did to my GT680W. I reported about it several months ago in this very lengthy post HERE. What I said in that post was, "Occasionally, there is an odd pulsating buzzing noise in the audio that tends to go away after the camera has been running for awhile." The problem manifested mostly during very cold weather and seemed to get better when the camera warmed up.

The best I could figure out was that it is a low voltage issue. The pulsating noise happened mostly when the camera was used with an external USB power bank during very cold weather. Recently, I did a series of lengthy multi-hour tests of the super-capacitor modified GT680W using a freshly charged battery bank and it worked perfectly with no pulsing buzz at all.

It is interesting to me that you have this audio issue as I thought it was specific to the DIY super-capacitor mod I did to a camera not really designed for or running on the appropriate firmware for a super-cap.

See if you still get the pulsing buzz when connected to a different power supply such as the 12v system in your car or a mains powered 5V USB adapter.
 
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Dashmellow said:
See if you still get the pulsing buzz when connected to a different power supply such as the 12v system in your car or a mains powered 5V USB adapter.
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The answer to that is no I don't. I already uploaded this 'in-car' example yesterday and although the buzz wasn't detectable, the audio quality was quite poor.

And for anybody who may be interested, here is a comparison I did between my G1W and my Mobius. I think the G1W faired quite well.
 
There you go, the mystery is solved!

Just listened to the H's audio on the first video and it doesn't sound that bad. It's the normal quality of a G1W-H with a good mic. Believe me, been there, done that. I had to replace mine's with the one from the G1W because the audio quality with the original mic was just horrible.
 
Dashmellow said:
It is interesting to me that you have this audio issue as I thought it was specific to the DIY super-capacitor mod I did to a camera not really designed for or running on the appropriate firmware for a super-cap.
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This is very common in audio related devices, such as effects processors, pedal boards, synthesizers, etc. I had a similar problem with my Zoom 3030: everytime there was movement in the display the buzzing noise was audible, just like in this case. If you watch the video with attention you'll notice the pulses appear everytime there's a movent in the display's graphics, i.e the changing seconds number on the time stamp.
 
Module 79L said:
This is very common in audio related devices, such as effects processors, pedal boards, synthesizers, etc. I had a similar problem with my Zoom 3030: everytime there was movement in the display the buzzing noise was audible, just like in this case. If you watch the video with attention you'll notice the pulses appear everytime there's a movent in the display's graphics, i.e the changing seconds number on the time stamp.
Click to expand...

I agree that the pulsating buzz results from an internal component and/or process but I believe it is still caused by a voltage drop within the circuitry. This theory came about from doing a lot of reading and research when I did the super-cap mod on the GT680W. If I can make some time for it I may try to demonstrate this as I believe it might be possible to reproduce this problem.
 
Dashmellow said:
I agree that the pulsating buzz results from an internal component and/or process but I believe it is still caused by a voltage drop within the circuitry.
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Of course the voltage drop is the cause of the problem! :D
Man, I often refrain from telling the whole story so that the replies don't become boring testaments but then I notice that sometimes I'm not fully understood. :)

Ok, here it goes:
I had a 9V 1A regulated and stabilized power supply that I wasn't using and one day I decided to power all my effects pedals with it (including the Zoom), instead of carrying around 4 individual power supplies. That's when the Zoom started to make the buzzing noises and do you know what was causing it?
Exactly, the voltage drop! The power supply provided precisely 9V but when all the pedals were turned on the voltage dropped to 8,7V. That drop was enough to cause the problem in the Zoom, which was the only one with digital processing. None of that happened with its own non-regulated 9V 300mA common type PS.
As it turned out, the Zoom needed 9V or more to work properly and its own PS provided 11V that dropped to around 10V when loaded.

PS (post scriptum, not power supply :D): Error7, sorry for the OT. :oops:
 
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Yeah, obviously we're both trying to say the same thing. In re-reading my posts I guess I was partly directing my answers to the OP, @Error7, who brought up the whole question in the first place.
 
Module 79L said:
Of course the voltage drop is the cause of the problem! :D
Man, I often refrain from telling the whole story so that the replies don't become boring testaments but then I notice that sometimes I'm not fully understood. :)

Ok, here it goes:
I had a 9V 1A regulated and stabilized power supply that I wasn't using and one day I decided to power all my effects pedals with it (including the Zoom), instead of carrying around 4 individual power supplies. That's when the Zoom started to make the buzzing noises and do you know what was causing it?
Exactly, the voltage drop! The power supply provided precisely 9V but when all the pedals were turned on the voltage dropped to 8,7V. That drop was enough to cause the problem in the Zoom, which was the only one with digital processing. None of that happened with its own non-regulated 9V 300mA common type PS.
As it turned out, the Zoom needed 9V or more to work properly and its own PS provided 11V that dropped to around 10V when loaded.

PS (post scriptum, not power supply :D): Error7, sorry for the OT. :oops:
Click to expand...

No need to apologise, I learnt something by you going off topic. I didn't know the G1W had pedals or a zoom with digital processing. And I was able to reproduce the buzz by connecting my G1W to a 9V 1amp regulated power supply. The G1W started to buzz immediately for about 2 seconds then it started to smoke! ;):p:D:p:D
 
Error7 said:
No need to apologise, I learnt something by you going off topic. I didn't know the G1W had pedals or a zoom with digital processing. And I was able to reproduce the buzz by connecting my G1W to a 9V 1amp regulated power supply. The G1W started to buzz immediately for about 2 seconds then it started to smoke! ;):p:D:p:D
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:D:D:D:D:D
Well, it all comes down to the voltage, no matter what it powers, so any example is a good example!

I don't know about adding sound effects to a dashcam but I wouldn't mind adding a camera to my pedal board so I could film the concerts. :)
 
Sounds to me like the hum happens as the internal battery/capacitor is charging then subsiding when it's full or when the needed charging current lowers as the battery/capacitor fills. I don't know the specifics with this cam but most charging systems do have a higher initial draw like this, and strange things can happen when circuits don't get their required voltages because the charger is hogging too much of it. Using a healthy aftermarket power supply or voltage converter may help; manufacturer-supplied items like these are often marginal.

Phil
 
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