How Power Magic Pro works

I will add that when the power is off I do have power coming from the wiring harness, confirmed by using a fuse tester, so I'm guessing it's not enough power, or the box is faulty.
 
Firstly a little non condescending lesson in electrics to widen your knowledge.
Fuses/batteries do not 'put out' power. They supply a voltage and the load (camera in this case) draws current (power) depending on its resistance and the maximum current capability of the battery/fuse. A charged car battery has the capability of providing several hundred amps to a suitable load (i.e. starter motor) so the possibility of it not providing enough current for the camera is not a realistic likelihood.

Having said all that, the PMP is designed to cut off the power supply to the camera if the battery output voltage drops to a user selected level to prevent complete discharge of the car's battery. In the case of a 12V system like most cars, this level can be set at either 12V or 12.5V. A car's battery will frequently fall below 12.5V (regardless what others might tell you) in 'normal use' with the engine off and if your PMP is set to 12.5V the camera will switch off. Set 12V on the PMP.
How do I know it's a 12v source?
The camera won't work at all if it isn't. If the camera switches off just after you turn off the ignition, it is connected to an ignition switched supply. If it stays on for more than a couple of seconds it is connected to a permanent live supply.
 
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I am also having trouble with the parking mode not working. After switching the ignition off, the dashcam powers off shortly after. Could it be that the fuse I tapped my yellow wire into is not putting out enough power? How do I know it's a 12v source?
Most vehicles have the standard nominal 12 volt system and in the past anything coming from the fuse panel was nominally 12 volts. If your cam works even for a short period it will be receiving 12 volts. The "size" of the fuse has nothing to do with providing enough power.. it either does.. or blows.

It is possible that you have tapped into a source that automatically shuts off after a period of time. Car manufacturers are adding all kinds of control to power supplies to save us.. from a dead battery.. Or.. your settings on the PMP are working correctly but set too high or short. Start by eliminating the controls on the PMP and set it to stay on indefinitely.. Mind it will run your battery down so this test needs to be for a short duration 3~4 hours.. just to confirm it is not the source at the fuse panel turning off. And.. consider which fuse your "yellow" wire is hooked into..
 
Ah Ha. I forgot the 'permanent 12V' that isn't due to the computer.
My car does it, along with the auto start/stop it can be a pain in the butt finding a really permanent 12V.
 
Just to add perhaps a bit more clarity (or confusion)
Yellow wire to 12V Perm live
Red wire to ignition switched
Black wire to chassis.
(And don't forget to start the engine)
PMP switched ON/OFF refer to the PMP's parking mode.

1. With the PMP switched OFF and ignition OFF. GREEN LIGHT OFF, NO PWR TO CAM
2. With the PMP switched ON and ignition OFF. GREEN LIGHT ON, PWR TO CAM
3. With the PMP switched OFF and ignition ON. GREEN LIGHT ON, PWR TO CAM. Green light and power to cam go off after about 5 seconds after switching ignition OFF.
4. With the PMP switched ON and ignition ON. GREEN LIGHT ON, PWR to Cam. Green light and power to cam stay on after switching OFF the ignition until either the voltage threshold or the timeout is reached'
 
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Hi @M8TJT
I noticed you had some troubles with auto stop start and voltages.

I'm having a similar issue my my current hardwire setup, and wondering if the PMP could solve it.

My ASS switches off the 12v supply to my +batt and +acc for a brief moment as the engine cranks.
This causes my dashcam to power down and then boot back up.
Since ASS normally kicks in at stop lights or junctions, it's not great that my camera powers down for 15 seconds as my engine starts and I emerge into the road.


Can this PMP survive 1s of complete loss of 12v to keep my dashcam powered, or do you think I will have the same issue?

Dash cam is a Viofo a119 v3 which is capacitor based.
 
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