Lost all confidence in my A119 V3.

Thanks. I have spent the last hour searching for the VIOFO box. The rattle suppression pads are in it and I may need them.

If that link above from CYA doesn't ring any bells remind me Sunday.
 
The cable doesn't have the Viofo brand name on it but it should say 22AWG every foot or so along the length of the cable.
 
I think the cable I got looked like this.
415+RPZjkgL._AC_.jpg
If it had been the style your image shows I would probably have used it.
I have just spent another hour looking for the VIOFO box with no luck. The problem I have is I had stuff laid out after our house move, MY STUFF that I had to find a place for. However, my wife thought I was taking too long to put it away so she did. With no rhyme or reason, and when I ask her where things are she says, "I don't know".
 
I think the cable I got looked like this.
View attachment 59054
If it had been the style your image shows I would probably have used it.
I have just spent another hour looking for the VIOFO box with no luck. The problem I have is I had stuff laid out after our house move, MY STUFF that I had to find a place for. However, my wife thought I was taking too long to put it away so she did. With no rhyme or reason, and when I ask her where things are she says, "I don't know".
That’s not the 12V adapter that Viofo packs in their A119 or A129 series cameras.
 
I am going to search the garage tomorrow in case I put the box in there. It is a nightmare. It was my late father-in-law's workshop and I have moved the contents of the garage I had, as well as all my wife's gardening equipment in there as well so finding anything is like searching for a needle in a haystack, albeit a fairly large needle.
 
As a last resort I can post you mine as I'm hardwired and will never use it.
Thanks a lot but I won't need it. I found the VIOFO box in the garage and as everyone said, the charger was as described. The reason I hadn't used it was my one has an indicator to show when there is power and the VIOFO one doesn't. Anyway, I have now installed the VIOFO one in the car. I am still using my shorter, 22AWG, gold plated USB cable as it is run around inside the trim and headlining. I bought myself a Model: KCX - 017 USB meter which I will connect in series with the camera. I have also switched off the Screensaver so though I cannot see the LED from the driving position I can see enough of the screen to know whether or not the camera is working.
I have done several short trips this last two days and I have had no issues. Hopefully whatever caused the initial problem is resolved. Thanks for everyone's help.
 
The reason I hadn't used it was my one has an indicator to show when there is power and the VIOFO one doesn't.
If you plug in the Viofo dual-port USB charger you will see that it does indeed indicate when it is receiving power. There is an indented lip around the circumference of the charger just below the flat top surface that will glow green when power is supplied.
 
Excellent. I tried it today, but it was in bright sunshine (the sun does come out in Scotland - now and again) and I never spotted it.
 
I like that the Viofo chargers are not too bright. I've owned a few similar chargers with LED indicators and found them to be distracting at night because they were too bright especially because I live in a rural area where I am often driving in the dark countryside where there are no streetlights. The tradeoff is that you can't really see the indicator during the day but if my cameras are showing their red LED pilots light I know all is well.
 
What I like about my new Jazz, apart from it being a superb car for me, is that the mass of black dots I had on the Civic windscreen top are a lot less. Only a half inch, if that. The Civic black dot area was about 4 inches.

That's meant I can mount the cam higher so I can see the red LED that was hidden behind the rearview mirror in the Civic.
 
One can easily darken too-bright LED's etc, but the opposite is problematic. I've used a 'sharpie' marker on some lights and have some black tape on another. With a couple of my cams I have to move my head and look in a certain direction to see functioning LED's which isn't exactly a safe practice when driving. I see little point in having a bright indicator on the PS; if it fails the cam LED will go away too. All the PS needs is enough to help diagnose problems which are best handled while safely parked somewhere meaning brightness is unnecessary..

Nothing is going to be perfect for everyone.

Phil
 
One can easily darken too-bright LED's etc, but the opposite is problematic. I've used a 'sharpie' marker on some lights and have some black tape on another.
Many of these dual port USB chargers illuminate the ports internally so a marker or tape won't work. Well, I guess you could tape over a USB port but that is a pain when you want to plug something into it.
 
This morning I set off for my booster jab and soon noticed that my A119 V3 wasn't working. The digital speedometer, plugged into the second port was. I was able to check the lead was firmly into the GPS unit and a wiggle of the camera in its mount made no difference. When I arrived at my destination I turned off the ignition, turned it back on, and the camera fired up. It worked happily on the return journey.
I am thinking of reverting back to the original firmware V2.4 as this issue has only surfaced since I updated.
 
I've reverted right back to 1.03

That's the version before HDR and gives the best results IMO.
 
I am thinking of reverting back to the original firmware V2.4 as this issue has only surfaced since I updated.
It won't hurt to try. If nothing else it might serve to determine if the problem is isolated to the current F/W version or is hardware related.
 
I am struggling to get a copy of the V2.4 firmware at the moment.
 
I am struggling to get a copy of the V2.4 firmware at the moment.
 
Thanks. I will give it a try. I did connect my USB multimeter in series with the supply. Running at 400mA.
 
If v2.4 brings no joy, try v1.03 which is regarded as the best version.
 
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