merc c200 blackvue dr750- 2ch magic pro set up

krish111

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Hi all have a c200 with a blackvue 750 two channel and wanting some help with the magic pro part installation.

I've run the wires to the back of the boot to allow access to the fuse in the back and have used this wondering guide to help me hide the wires

I have brought some piggyback fuse taps for the magic power pro and wanted to know what amp fuse to put in ( is 10amp right for both constant on and the other only on with engine on ) and whether it should be placed near the wire side or the one furthest away as the fuse tap has 2 slots on each one. Both slots are currently empty and the fuse box pic is attached ( taken from the same site I got the instructions from)

Also does the earth just need to placed under the screw of the m8 bolt on the chassis.

And lastly the on the magic pro is it only the 2nd one to be down and the rest up for constant recording while parked ? or does this only pick up when triggered by movement etc.

Sorry new to all this..... any help would be grateful.
 

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M8TJT

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3A in both. The yellow wire takes about 1 Amp to feed the cam and the red wire takes virtually no current as it is a high impedance switch line.
On a fuse tap, the slot nearest the pins that go into the fusebox is for the original fuse (but as your fuse slots have no fuses in them, leave the ones on the fuse tap empty)
The slot nearest the wire (furthest from the pins) is the fuse for your device.
If you have a meter, then check out which side of the car's fuse slot is live (or live ACC,) and then insert the fuse tap so that the pin that goes in the live slot is the one furthest away from the cable otherwise you will have no voltage output on the cable..
 
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krish111

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3A in both. The yellow wire takes about 1 Amp to feed the cam and the red wire takes virtually no current as it is a high impedance switch line.
On a fuse tap, the slot nearest the pins that go into the fusebox is for the original fuse (but as your fuse slots have no fuses in them, leave the ones on the fuse tap empty)
The slot nearest the wire (furthest from the pins) is the fuse for your device.
If you have a meter, then check out which side of the car's fuse slot is live (or live ACC,) and then insert the fuse tap so that the pin that goes in the live slot is the one furthest away from the cable otherwise you will have no voltage output on the cable..

Great thank you for your detailed answer especially regarding the the slots! ! much appreciated.
 
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krish111

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3A in both. The yellow wire takes about 1 Amp to feed the cam and the red wire takes virtually no current as it is a high impedance switch line.
On a fuse tap, the slot nearest the pins that go into the fusebox is for the original fuse (but as your fuse slots have no fuses in them, leave the ones on the fuse tap empty)
The slot nearest the wire (furthest from the pins) is the fuse for your device.
If you have a meter, then check out which side of the car's fuse slot is live (or live ACC,) and then insert the fuse tap so that the pin that goes in the live slot is the one furthest away from the cable otherwise you will have no voltage output on the cable..

the last part I didn't understand fully. I don't have a tester but if you see the pic below attached is that correct ? the left side fuse tap being the red accessory and the right side being the yellow constant on live

or could you explain the last part in really dumb simple terms. Sorry to sound so thick ! :)
 

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It looks like your PMP is fired up ok as the green led appears to be on? If the PMP and camera fire up ok, then you have got it right (by luck). If the cam does not start then fire up the engine.

If the above works then the following is academic.
The fuse that you put in the 'top's slot connects the cable to the pin (that goes intonyhe fusenox slot) that is furthest from the cable so it is this pin that must go into the supply voltage.
If you are still not with it, I'll draw a diagram tomorrow. Or I'll look for one of my previous post that goes through it all.
 
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krish111

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It looks like your PMP is fired up ok as the green led appears to be on? If the PMP and camera fire up ok, then you have got it right (by luck). If the cam does not start then fire up the engine.

If the above works then the following is academic.
The fuse that you put in the 'top's slot connects the cable to the pin (that goes intonyhe fusenox slot) that is furthest from the cable so it is this pin that must go into the supply voltage.
If you are still not with it, I'll draw a diagram tomorrow. Or I'll look for one of my previous post that goes through it all.

hi sorry those pics are from the blackvue install from another forum which is set up for the same car as mine https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w205/581415-blackvue-install-3.html....
i was planning to insert the fuses at the top side in both taps as your have said and place them in the same slot as the pic and the set up from the other forum shows.
Im planning to install this today hopefully with your help ! :p

I have absolutely no idea what your own about...hopefully with a diagram or pic id understand more.


thanks one again !

hope to hear from your soon.
 

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Fuse both top slots with 3A fuses and just try it as it is shown in your pics. It will either work or not work. You will not damage anything by doing it like that. If it works, jolly good, if it doesn't come back here.
Just bear in mind that if the camera doesn't start, then start the car engine.

In your pics, the fuse slots that you intend to use are empty. Is that the case in your car?

I'll see if I can find the stuff about the correct use of a fuse taps or draw something.
 
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FuseTapWiring.jpg

In the diagram, Point 1 is the live side of the fuse-box fuse slot and point B is the load side of the fuse slot. Point 1 may be a permanent live feed or via the ignition switch as ACC.

Circuit A is an example of a normally wired circuit.
The current for the load comes from the battery, through Point 1, the fuse, Point 2 and then, via the switch to the car's primary load.
If the load takes excessive current, the fuse blows and removes the supply voltage from Point 2 and thus the load that is causing the problem.

Circuit B is the correct configuration for fuse tapped secondary load.
As before, the current for the primary load comes from the battery, through fuse A and the switch to the load.
In addition, current comes from the battery, to point 1, through fuse B and then to the secondary load.
As before, if the primary load draws excess current, fuse A blows and removes the overload, but the secondary load stays working because current can still flow from the battery through fuse B.

Circuit C is an example of an incorrectly wired fuse tapped secondary load.
As before, the current for the primary load comes from the battery, to point 1, through fuse A and the switch to the load.
In addition, current can flow from the battery, to point 1, through fuse A to point 2 and then fuse B to the secondary load. (No problem you might think)
BUT if the primary load draws excess current, fuse A blows, removes the overload, but the secondary load also stops working because the voltage supply has been removed from point 2 and thus fuse B.

What are the consequences of wiring as per C other than if fuse A fails, both loads stop working?
If the secondary load is much higher than the primary load, say secondary are spotlights fused at 15A and these are tapped into the sidelight circuit fused at 5A, then as soon as the spotlights are switched on, the 5A sidelight fuse will blow and both the sidelights and spotlights will go out. A correctly wired fuse tap will not do this.

Some people say that provided that the primary fuse is larger than the secondary fuse, the incorrect method of wiring is OK. Agreed the primary fuse will not blow in my scenario above, but the secondary current still flows through the primary fuse which is just plain wrong. You should not put 2 fuses in series like that.

So, the conclusion of all that is that you need to find out which end of the car's fuse-box slots are live.
To test. Use a meter or, have no fuse in the 'lower' slot of a fuse tap, and put one in the 'upper' slot then connect a load (such as a bulb, or something else that will indicate that it's on) between the fuse tap wire and chassis. If the load 'works', then you have the tap the 'right way round'. If the load does not 'work' reverse the fuse tap in the fuse-box. It should then ';work' and thus indicate the correct way round for the tap.
 
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krish111

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Hi thanks for your extremely helpful posts ! I have sorted it now thanks i think. All started as it should be .

yes the slots were also empty as in the pics.

One quick question. I only had a 3amp and a 5amp and used one of each. Does it matter you reckon ? Or should I swap the 5amp out for a 3?

thanks once again.
 
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krish111

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View attachment 49750

In the diagram, Point 1 is the live side of the fuse-box fuse slot and point B is the load side of the fuse slot. Point 1 may be a permanent live feed or via the ignition switch as ACC.

Circuit A is an example of a normally wired circuit.
The current for the load comes from the battery, through Point 1, the fuse, Point 2 and then, via the switch to the car's primary load.
If the load takes excessive current, the fuse blows and removes the supply voltage from Point 2 and thus the load that is causing the problem.

Circuit B is the correct configuration for fuse tapped secondary load.
As before, the current for the primary load comes from the battery, through fuse A and the switch to the load.
In addition, current comes from the battery, to point 1, through fuse B and then to the secondary load.
As before, if the primary load draws excess current, fuse A blows and removes the overload, but the secondary load stays working because current can still flow from the battery through fuse B.

Circuit C is an example of an incorrectly wired fuse tapped secondary load.
As before, the current for the primary load comes from the battery, to point 1, through fuse A and the switch to the load.
In addition, current can flow from the battery, to point 1, through fuse A to point 2 and then fuse B to the secondary load. (No problem you might think)
BUT if the primary load draws excess current, fuse A blows, removes the overload, but the secondary load also stops working because the voltage supply has been removed from point 2 and thus fuse B.

What are the consequences of wiring as per C other than if fuse A fails, both loads stop working?
If the secondary load is much higher than the primary load, say secondary are spotlights fused at 15A and these are tapped into the sidelight circuit fused at 5A, then as soon as the spotlights are switched on, the 5A sidelight fuse will blow and both the sidelights and spotlights will go out. A correctly wired fuse tap will not do this.

Some people say that provided that the primary fuse is larger than the secondary fuse, the incorrect method of wiring is OK. Agreed the primary fuse will not blow in my scenario above, but the secondary current still flows through the primary fuse which is just plain wrong. You should not put 2 fuses in series like that.

So, the conclusion of all that is that you need to find out which end of the car's fuse-box slots are live.
To test. Use a meter or, have no fuse in the 'lower' slot of a fuse tap, and put one in the 'upper' slot then connect a load (such as a bulb, or something else that will indicate that it's on) between the fuse tap wire and chassis. If the load 'works', then you have the tap the 'right way round'. If the load does not 'work' reverse the fuse tap in the fuse-box. It should then ';work' and thus indicate the correct way round for the tap.
Hi thanks for your extremely helpful posts ! I have sorted it now thanks i think. All started as it should be .

yes the slots were also empty as in the pics.

One quick question. I only had a 3amp and a 5amp and used one of each. Does it matter you reckon ? Or should I swap the 5amp out for a 3?

thanks once again.
 

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Sorry. I thought I had already answered. Yes, they will be fine. I would put the 5A one in the yellow wire feed as that is the one that supplies all the current to the cam.
Having said that, the cam only takes something in the order of 1A so it's not really important and no doubt the purists would say stick a 3A in both.


EDIT: Typo of 2A corrected to 3A
 
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krish111

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Sorry. I thought I had already answered. Yes, they will be fine. I would put the 5A one in the yellow wire feed as that is the one that supplies all the current to the cam.
Having said that, the cam only takes something in the order of 1A so it's not really important and no doubt the purists would say stick a 2A in both.
Great thank you so much for your help !
 

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Typo of 2A corrected to 3A in post #11
 
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