New to Dash Cameras. What should we get?

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I work at a construction company. We have a number of Dodge 2500 and 3500. The boss got a bunch of Abask J05 cameras to put in them. They aren't working so great so I'm hoping to get them some better ones. We hardwired them into the system and what we find is the camera will turn on when the vehicle starts and then after about 2 minutes they turn off even though the vehicle is still running. Here are the criteria I'm looking for.

1. The ability to turn off parking recording. Only want it to record when the vehicle is turned on.
2. GPS tracking? Is this a thing? Only want it to send a signal when the vehicle is running.

Also looking for a lower price point if possible. No monthling subscriptions, unless it is for cloud storage.

Oh another question, would any low voltage protection hardwiring kit protect me from draining the car battery? Are those universal to any camera?

Thanks for any help and guidance you can provide!
 
I work at a construction company. We have a number of Dodge 2500 and 3500. The boss got a bunch of Abask J05 cameras to put in them. They aren't working so great so I'm hoping to get them some better ones. We hardwired them into the system and what we find is the camera will turn on when the vehicle starts and then after about 2 minutes they turn off even though the vehicle is still running. Here are the criteria I'm looking for.

1. The ability to turn off parking recording. Only want it to record when the vehicle is turned on.
2. GPS tracking? Is this a thing? Only want it to send a signal when the vehicle is running.

Also looking for a lower price point if possible. No monthling subscriptions, unless it is for cloud storage.

Oh another question, would any low voltage protection hardwiring kit protect me from draining the car battery? Are those universal to any camera?

Thanks for any help and guidance you can provide!

Welcome

I searched for the dashcam you mention and it appears it is in the lower price bracket for dashcams.

If the company you work for has a fleet of vehicles you may be able to use that as leverage in getting a lower price for new dashcams.
I note that the model you mention doesn't come with GPS.

Regardless many dashcams that have GPS store the information on the video but is not designed to send the GPS coordinates in real time ( ie. over the phone network for tracking purposes) . There is one or two Korean brands that do this Blackview and Thinkware however they want top dollar for their gear and I'm not sure it is for tracking like Truck fleets do.

Someone else on this forum may be able to help you with an alternative.

and what we find is the camera will turn on when the vehicle starts and then after about 2 minutes they turn off even though the vehicle is still running.
If you are interested in having a go at problem solving, what you have I might be able to help.

Take the camera out of the truck and test it inside. Basically bence test it. Connect it to a USB phone charger as it requires 5 Volts and see if it shuts down after 2 minutes.
If it doesn't then it might be the hard wiring in the truck. Check it's not being supplied 12 Volts.

The hardwire kits aren't universal as much as we would love them to be. Some will work on other dashcams.
All hardwire kits will consume some power even when everything is turned off because they still monitor the cars electrics. The amperage is very low in the 10mA area but this still can flatten a car battery over long parked up times.
Personally I prefer to cut the power completely off which requires a relay that cuts all power including the power to the relay. Another option is add a switch to the hardwire kit if the vehicles are parked up for long periods of time.

Hope that helps a little.

Cheers.
 
Welcome to the forum Wesslen Construction.

Yeah some Vehicles will suspend some circuits for some reason, so newer cars can in some cases be somewhat of a challenge to hardwire cameras into.

A few years ago i put a simple camera into my friends car, using a multi port USB charger for power, so that i had to hardwire into the Mercedes fuse.
The problem however was, no fuse in that damn car ever seemed to want to come off, well at least not before we closed all doors, and gave it a little time.
And his car is a older one, at least a decade old.
But in the end we got it working, just took 4-5 X longer than i would have expected.

To use regular record when running, you dont really need a hard wire kit, in that case you can just get a female 12 V socket and wire its + 12 V side into a ACC fuse and then ground, and then use the provided plug power source, mind you you probably have to tape the 2 sockets together under the dash CUZ otherwise they can wiggle apart.
That do not happen very often on the in dash / console 12 V plug plug, but they are also often places so they point upwards.
Og course most brands also have a hard wire kit for their different models, and you can also use that and just not turn on parkin guard features in the camera itself, but then its just a extra cost, you get 0 out off, and of course you have your in dash socket free for other stuff, and not really any wire dangling.
In Denmark you can not have anything dangling from the mirror or whatever, you have to route around the windscreen properly, and of course not install your camera right smack in the middle of the windscreen, most prefer some stealth so in my car i have a shade area at the top in front of the roof mounter mirror, this is excellent CUZ i can mount on that and only have the bottom part with the lens peek out below the dots, so very stealthy.

The GPS in cameras, in general they do 2 things, A they help with the time keeping, essential as files are named after time / date of creation, if you have a GPS enabled camera you just set your correct time zone and then it should set the correct time on its own, just 1 thing like phones and computers dashcam GPS do not automatic account for daylight savings, so me a Dane i am +1 hour now ( actual ) but in summer i have to change to +2 hours to have the correct time displayed.
And B you can also embed / watermark the car speed and some times coordinates too into the video.
The latter will not fly in any court of law as its a cheap un-calibrated devise, but the time in the video it take you to bass by pole " A " and sign " B " they can go measure the exact distance in between, that using math will give you the exact speed, and one it will be damn hard to wiggle out off.
Only if your camera record at a random changing frame rate will you be able to question that math, and that dont really happen.

The camera can not transmit anything unless it is one of the fancy and often very highest end Cloud enabled cameras, CUZ those you can put a SIM card into, and so they can be accessed remote, at least while driving but some can also be accessed while they are in parking guard mode.
If it came to that, well i would just use a regular GPS tracker, maybe one of those Apple dot thingies that leech on nearby phone and wifi to send location reports, though i do think you can detect if such a Apple thing is present, but that is also the case with a regular GPS tracker as its a GOS and a phone module, so with a GSM sweeper you could also detect something like that if need be.
But thats a whole other ballgame you dont seem to need so lets forget about those.

If dashcams behave flaky in operation it can be a insufficient power source, or the wired connection to a rear camera if it is a 2 channel model.
But if your systems always give you 2 minites of recording on the dot, well that to me indicate something else, if it was power or other things that time should be irregular.
If you guys are using some generic hard wire kit, that could be the problem, but

Parking guard is generally a " extra feature " you are never forced to use it, you can always just forget about it / not turn it on, though some systems if you let the car sit idling but otherwise have no movement in / on it, after a couple of minutes some will go into parking guard, though if that's not ON i dont think it will.
It is a thing left over form the ancient ways of doing parking guard where we only had 2 wires and the +12 V one had to be one that was always on, and then the G-sensor decided in the car was parked or moving, by no activity in a few minutes.
Today most hard wire kits are 3 wires where the +12 V ACC wire only act like a trigger to tell the camera what mode to go to / from
 
Tapping into fuses, most often you use a piggy back style fuse adapter, that let you add another circuit for the camera to a already existing circuit in the car, i am tapped into 10 A fuses in my car and use a 5 A fuse for the add Circuit, this will easy pull 5-6-7 cameras.
The bottom location are for the original fuse, the top one are the fuse location for the new added circuit.

You of course do not want to tap into high risk fuses like engine management - airbags ASO, but most other stuff are fair game.

iu


These look like this, but you of course have to get one for the fuse model your vehicles use, there are a good handful different sizes of these blade / ATO fuses.

You can also tap into a existing circuit somewhere on a wire, then you just need a inline fuse for the camera, but otherwise as it is a very little load you are adding it should be fine to also leech on a circuit this way.
 
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