Night time super grainy and out of focus from distance issue

ChibiSqueeze

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I just installed my A119s as a rearview camera and my night videos are super grainy. My other issue is that from a far distance (day time), cars seems out of focus with slight glare by the front bumper.

I'm using the included power cable and 1920x1080 60fps, WDR off setting.
 
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gse

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Моя другая проблема заключается в том, что с дальнего расстояния (дневное время) автомобили выглядят не в фокусе с легким взглядом переднего бампера.
Видео, на ГуглДиск, Dropbox, ссылку сюда, посмотрим.
 
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ChibiSqueeze

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Here's what it looks like:
cNYIDxG.gif


Sorry for not posting video, it currently has my license plate.
 
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ChibiSqueeze

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And here's the daytime shot, cars seem out of focus for me and excess glare:
 

jokiin

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Too many ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
will have a look later, videos aren't showing as available yet, could be a privacy setting or they just haven't finished encoding yet
 

jokiin

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Too many ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
in low and no light situations you're going to work hard to get a decent picture, hard to say if the focus is off as YouTube re-encodes the video (quite poorly at that), as a starting point I'd probably suggest trying it at 1080p30 with WDR on and see how it looks and go from there
 

c4rc4m

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What you're seeing in the video is the effects of "gain". Basically if there's insufficient light to form a picture, the camera electronically amplifies the signal from the sensor to enable it to be strong enough to be processable and show something meaningful. Unfortunately with electronics, you also get transients (small unwanted electric currents in the back ground), and these signals get amplified as well which is why you see speckling and grain.

That's the technical side. The non technical side, is the streets look very dark even with street lighting and I'm unsure how sensitive the A119 is. One way to try to alleviate the issues as Jokin said above, is reduce the frame rate to 30fps. With 30fps, each frame is exposed for longer so whilst you get more slightly blur with movement, you get more light so a brighter picture.

The other issue is check the memory card speed and make sure it's fast enough. Ideally you want at least a Class 10, and there's some argument for UHS-1 minimum with HD video, depending on the compression levels used by the camera.

If you really can't make the A119 work, then consider swapping it for a WR1 as mine makes an excellent job of low light as you can see in the 2nd "performance" video here: https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/threa...ighting-weather-conditions-comparisons.30018/

Just be aware, all cameras struggle in really low / no light (especially as there are no headlights to the rear), it's just some struggle more than others.
 
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