Old GC V3 got retired and DC is now in!

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cocacola

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Just removed the old GC and installed the new DC today, took a few hours to do it but it is worth it. Installing in the new Honda Odyssey was a nightmare. The rear cam cable is very thick and due to the design of Odyssey which made it hard to hide inside the pillars. After hiding all the cables and went back to the front to plug all the cables in, I found that the metal part of rear camera cable came off the connector little bit! (Just like people unplug the phone charging cable by pulling the cable rather then the plug. ) The metal part is not glued properly inside the connector. What a heart attack. I just didn’t want to remove all the things. So tried to push the metal part back to the connector and plug into the camera, it is working! Thanks god.

Will the cable has any issue in the long run? It is working fine for 5 hours since this afternoon. Thanks.
 
How do you guy attached the rear cam? I don’t want to stick it on the tinted rear windscreen.
 

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I think quite a few did what you have done for the same reasons, mine are on a magnet that coincidentally also space out the camera just enough from my rear hatch frame.
And mine just like yours are at the very top of the rear glass, and on my car also within wiper coverage.
 
Looks like an angled connector would be a better choice...
 
lacibaci said:
Looks like an angled connector would be a better choice...
Click to expand...

We include 2 cables.

3.5 meter with angled connectors on both side

6 meter with 1 angled connector and one straight connector. This is helpful when running through small tiny grommet holes

We also sell a special 6.5 meter cable with angled connectors on both sides
 
I looked closer at the rear camera install photo above. Our included 3M VHB Adhesive sticks best to completely smooth surfaces such as glass. It also comes off cleanly. I wouldn’t expect it to stick and hold long term on rippled plastic trim parts like I see in the photo . You might need to use some exterior strength stuff they use to hold mailboxes to brick walls.
(But it won’t be easy to remove later on though extra strong adhesive)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/B07KMH7DTR
 
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Nothing are permanent,,,,,,,,, except,,,,,, STOP himself for going political yet again as it is in vane and mood are unusual good tonight.
 
jokiin said:
if it does at all just let us know and we'll arrange a replacement
Click to expand...
Just curious if that part is solely for alignment of the plug parts inside or whether it has a wire attached? If the latter he shouldn't have a problem as long as the wire stays attached.

In my electronics hobby I've experienced similar rather too often and when I do a 'postmortem' by carving the plastic away, the plugs where the metal is dimpled or holed well seem to avoid this issue while smoother ones sometimes do slip. My work-around is the use a metal 'toothpick' between metal and outer sheath to create space, then drop in superglue and move the toothpick around at least half of the circle to spread it. On the worst cases whee the plastic is really soft I add a tiny tie-wrap outside puling it as tight as it will go. It seems to work well.

A tougher engineering problem than you'd think as one part of the sheath needs to be nearly solid but the wire strain relief section needs to be flexible at the same time and it's all got to be the one same plastic!

Phil
 
SawMaster said:
Just curious if that part is solely for alignment of the plug parts inside or whether it has a wire attached? If the latter he shouldn't have a problem as long as the wire stays attached.
Click to expand...

not clear from his description but I don't think any wire would have been affected, I think it's only cosmetic, if it does prove to be a problem though we'll replace the cable without question
 
It depend i recon, i have the camera unit of the INNOVV C3 stuck to the backside of the B pillar on the rippled plastic, and as it is on a rounding in the plastic i recon its just 50% of the sticky pad that are engaged.
And i am sure the innovv C3 ALU camera housing are as heavy as the DC rear camera.

You could let the sticky pad on the rear camera grip on a pice of sheet metal, and then put a neodymium magnet on top of the plastic trim if you can get it off.
That was my plan as the magnet i use for my rear camera only engang on about 1/3 of the tape, but it remained in place over this long and unusual warm Danish summer, so seem like i can forget that.

img_20180412_191843-jpg.37453
 
cocacola said:
I don’t want to damage the film if I want to remove the bracket.
Click to expand...
I’ve removed SG cams from tint before without an issue. I wouldn’t go too far out of my way to avoid it.
 
I've also removed several rear facing cameras that were stuck to my tint without any issues. Turning on the rear defrost and a heat gun helps loosen the double sided tape.

Back to the rear camera install. I used the 6 meter cable since the 3.5 meter cable with the two 90's wouldn't make it to the front of my car (2016 Mitsubishi outlander sport). I had to modify a part of the plastic shroud that goes around the rear glass since I installed the rear camera to high up on the rear glass. The second time I used the replacement 3m adhesive double sided tape included for the rear camera and I still did not install the rear camera far enough down the back window allowing enough room for the straight plug. The plastic shrod would cause way to much pressure on the plug possibly damaging the camera or forcing it to pop off in time. A 6 meter cable with the two 90* connectors would have saved me from modifying/mutilating the top portion of the plastic shroud.
 
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