Parking Mode - Any "plug and play" 24h+ battery solution ?
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Outbacknomad
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The Victron charger you can (third paragraph). I have adjusted the voltage on both of mine and they are within about 0.02 volts of each other. These are dumb chargers. They have worked well. If I was buying again I would get a Victron DC-DC smart charger, which can also be paralleled.
Victron DC-DC smart
Victron DC-DC smart
Outbacknomad
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One could buy a 18AH gel battery 182 x 77 X 167mm which could be put in the spare wheel well or on its side under a seat. Gel batteries can sit on their side. A Victron DC-DC 12v-12v-9amp charger.
Buy these in Australia for $75 + $120. If you have the space add a second battery for a total $270 for 36AH.
With 2 batteries connect positive to one battery and negative to the other battery and bridge the batteries, so they charge and discharge evenly.
Buy these in Australia for $75 + $120. If you have the space add a second battery for a total $270 for 36AH.
With 2 batteries connect positive to one battery and negative to the other battery and bridge the batteries, so they charge and discharge evenly.
Nigel
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Good advice, but in case others don't understand, you are saying to connect the batteries in parallel, your comment is only about making the cable lengths from the charger identical for both batteries, thus the power goes equally to both, rather than charging the closest first.
Montecristo
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Hello @Outbacknomad, hello everyone,
thanks a lot @Outbacknomad for your suggestion... It's a great alternative, and I would have definitely tried this setup if I had a bigger car (sadly there is no outback around here
)or not fixed myself some budget constraints.
**EDIT for @Outbacknomad : sorry missed your message above, your solution is not expensive actually ! **
So I tried some more and I have reached a standstill.
1) Powerbank autonomy (Baseus BS-30KP365, 30 Ah 65W max) :
- with the A800S hardwired and running in "normal" mode, screen on (12V, observed load current between 0.3-0.5A)*
- the battery went from 93% to 60% in 7 and half hours.
- (the battery is not passthrough)
2) Powerbank + Trigger + Diode + Car Battery setup (see below) :
- I tried the setup and the diode (1N5818) immediately started smoking. No need to be an electronics expert to notice there is something wrong there. Result : fail (Thanks a lot @Nigel for having spared the time to look into it).
3) What's next :
- Based on the initial objective, I have two solutions :
a) Set-up an isolator + AUX battery as @kamkar mentionned. Robust and proven solution. The issue being that if I let the car stay parked for some time, it is less of an "easy plug and play" solution.
b) Connect the Hardwire kit to both the car battery, AND the power bank via the triggerboard. But add a binary switch (0- HWK to battery : 1 -HWK to triggerboard+powerbank) and manually switch to 0 before starting the car and driving, switch to 1 when parking the car.
- I think that for my case, I will go with the b) option because its more plug and play friendly. I could always change to a) later if the context compells it.
As always, thank you guys for your time, and for any suggestion or alternative you may have.
Cheers,
M.
thanks a lot @Outbacknomad for your suggestion... It's a great alternative, and I would have definitely tried this setup if I had a bigger car (sadly there is no outback around here
)or not fixed myself some budget constraints.**EDIT for @Outbacknomad : sorry missed your message above, your solution is not expensive actually ! **
So I tried some more and I have reached a standstill.
1) Powerbank autonomy (Baseus BS-30KP365, 30 Ah 65W max) :
- with the A800S hardwired and running in "normal" mode, screen on (12V, observed load current between 0.3-0.5A)*
- the battery went from 93% to 60% in 7 and half hours.
- (the battery is not passthrough)
2) Powerbank + Trigger + Diode + Car Battery setup (see below) :
- I tried the setup and the diode (1N5818) immediately started smoking. No need to be an electronics expert to notice there is something wrong there. Result : fail
(Thanks a lot @Nigel for having spared the time to look into it).3) What's next :
- Based on the initial objective, I have two solutions :
a) Set-up an isolator + AUX battery as @kamkar mentionned. Robust and proven solution. The issue being that if I let the car stay parked for some time, it is less of an "easy plug and play" solution.
b) Connect the Hardwire kit to both the car battery, AND the power bank via the triggerboard. But add a binary switch (0- HWK to battery : 1 -HWK to triggerboard+powerbank) and manually switch to 0 before starting the car and driving, switch to 1 when parking the car.
- I think that for my case, I will go with the b) option because its more plug and play friendly. I could always change to a) later if the context compells it.
As always, thank you guys for your time, and for any suggestion or alternative you may have.
Cheers,
M.
Last edited:
Outbacknomad
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Yes, in parallel.
Keep all wires the same length for the equivalent wire on + & -
Whether it is 2, 4 or 8 batteries connect them up this way so all batteries charge and discharge equally.
If you simply add batteries to the end of the chain. The first battery will be working the hardest and the last battery the least. You will shorten their life as they will be trying to equalise voltage.
Keep all wires the same length for the equivalent wire on + & -
Whether it is 2, 4 or 8 batteries connect them up this way so all batteries charge and discharge equally.
If you simply add batteries to the end of the chain. The first battery will be working the hardest and the last battery the least. You will shorten their life as they will be trying to equalise voltage.
Nigel
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Well I did suggest a 2 amp or greater, and that one is a 1 amp?- I tried the setup and the diode (1N5818) immediately started smoking. No need to be an electronics expert to notice there is something wrong there. Result : fail
But still, I would not have expected smoke from driving 1 dashcam, maybe there was something wrong in the connections?
Montecristo
New Member
Hello @Nigel,
you are absolutely correct, and to be honest I did not even pay attention when I bought the diodes. I confess that diodes datasheets look like hieroglyphs to me so I thought that a "1 A forward current" would be compatible with the load of the dashcam. I have taken crash egyptology courses and I start to understand the datasheets a little bit better, and that is one of the great things with discussing on this forum.
So I will buy a 1N5820 or 21 or 22 Schottky diode, they have a max forward current of 3.0A, hope this is a correct choice.
Here is the setup i did (I would never try such things with high voltage).
Picture 1 : the setup before trying to add the car battery. The powerbank works fine, the dashcam goes on recording, and by unplugging the ACC wire of the hardwire kit, the dashcam goes into parking surveillance mode.
Picture 2 : this is with the car battery added, and moments before plugging again the usb cable linking the triggerboard to the powerbank. This is when the diode immediately goes smoking and smelling burnt plastic.
Picture 3 : zoom on the diode, to see its polarity (the printed band marking is facing towards the triggerboard, and away from the battery + side.
Hope this is clear enough and not too taxing for you to see the mistakes I made ?
Thank you so much in advance for your time,
M.
you are absolutely correct, and to be honest I did not even pay attention when I bought the diodes. I confess that diodes datasheets look like hieroglyphs to me so I thought that a "1 A forward current" would be compatible with the load of the dashcam. I have taken crash egyptology courses and I start to understand the datasheets a little bit better, and that is one of the great things with discussing on this forum.
So I will buy a 1N5820 or 21 or 22 Schottky diode, they have a max forward current of 3.0A, hope this is a correct choice.
Here is the setup i did (I would never try such things with high voltage).
Picture 1 : the setup before trying to add the car battery. The powerbank works fine, the dashcam goes on recording, and by unplugging the ACC wire of the hardwire kit, the dashcam goes into parking surveillance mode.
Picture 2 : this is with the car battery added, and moments before plugging again the usb cable linking the triggerboard to the powerbank. This is when the diode immediately goes smoking and smelling burnt plastic.
Picture 3 : zoom on the diode, to see its polarity (the printed band marking is facing towards the triggerboard, and away from the battery + side.
Hope this is clear enough and not too taxing for you to see the mistakes I made ?
Thank you so much in advance for your time,
M.
GermanDC
New Member
Hi All,
I read thru this thread and I do have some confusion in my mind.
1. I asume that if you hardwire a 70mai dashcam and the parking mode is activated we have only power consumption while the G Sensor is triggered and the camera starts to record. In all other situation only minimal power should drain the Battery (circuit board and G sensor within the camera)
2. the only problem would be to trigger the parking mode as if you use the power bank parking mode can not be enabled.
So the question would be how to trigger the parking mode while Dashcam is powered by Powerbank
If you open the 70mai HWK you can see that 3 wires goes in (ACC, B+ and Ground) but also 3 wires goes out (Ground, B+ and ???). As I saw everything on pictures I am not able to find out for what purpose the 3rd wire is and where it goes but if you can trigger the parking mode it would be possible to use a standard power bank with Dashcam parking mode.
I am quite new here but also try to find a solution here as it is not possible for me to use a HWK as my car do not like additional electric stuff interfering to the sensitive bus system.
BR. GDC
I read thru this thread and I do have some confusion in my mind.
1. I asume that if you hardwire a 70mai dashcam and the parking mode is activated we have only power consumption while the G Sensor is triggered and the camera starts to record. In all other situation only minimal power should drain the Battery (circuit board and G sensor within the camera)
2. the only problem would be to trigger the parking mode as if you use the power bank parking mode can not be enabled.
So the question would be how to trigger the parking mode while Dashcam is powered by Powerbank
If you open the 70mai HWK you can see that 3 wires goes in (ACC, B+ and Ground) but also 3 wires goes out (Ground, B+ and ???). As I saw everything on pictures I am not able to find out for what purpose the 3rd wire is and where it goes but if you can trigger the parking mode it would be possible to use a standard power bank with Dashcam parking mode.
I am quite new here but also try to find a solution here as it is not possible for me to use a HWK as my car do not like additional electric stuff interfering to the sensitive bus system.
BR. GDC
thomas-dash
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1. If you're using parking mode, then the camera is consuming the same amount of power as if the car was running. G Sensor is only to lock a file to prevent it from being overwritten. The camera can't turn on and magically record something that happened while it was turned off.
2. You would have to use a hardwire kit and hook up the ACC cable to a fuse that is only powered when the car is turned on. This allows the camera to detect whether the car is on or off and put itself into the correct mode. When you're doing this you have to make sure the power bank has a ground going to the car.