Parking mode bug and improvement suggestion

ogzogz

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2020
Messages
504
Reaction score
338
Location
Türkiye
Country
Turkey
@VIOFO-Support
Hi,

When I try the parking mode on the A119 mini 2 without the hardware kit, if it remains motionless for 5 minutes, it switches to the parking mode. However, when you choose the time-lapse recording option, instead of disabling it when the GPS speed exceeds 8 km/h, the parking mode is disabled as soon as the image changes and you have to wait another 5 minutes. If the image changes, parking mode is disabled.
There is a logical error here.

Works stably with parking mode hardware kit.

It should work stably even after waiting 5 minutes.

Solution suggestion:
when using power bank
Edit: Instead of 5 minutes,
The transition time to parking mode should be 3 minutes.

1. In image detection parking option, image detection should be activated after 3 minutes of normal recording.
When there is a movement or impact, it records the 15 seconds before and the 30 seconds after for a total of 45 seconds. If there is no movement after 45 seconds, it should switch to movement mode again.
So it shouldn't wait 3 minutes again.

2. accelerated recording option.
Parking registration should start after 3 minutes.
and if the vehicle is hit, normal registration must be made. and it should do this without stopping and restarting the video. If there is no image change in the recording made after the impact, the video should be terminated according to the loop option and the accelerated recording should be started again.
In short, recording should not start after images from time-lapse recording are detected. It should switch to normal recording when there is a crash or when passing at a speed of 8 km/h.

3.Continuous low bit audio recording.
After 3 minutes, parking recording should start at low speed.
When impact is detected, the rest of the video should be recorded at normal bit without stopping recording. and parking mode must be deactivated when speeds of 8 km/h are exceeded.

All 3 parking modes need improvement overall. If there is a parking mode without a hardware kit in the menu, it should work stably.
If parking mode will only work with the Hardware kit, parking mode should not be included in the camera and application options when there is no kit connection.

Additionally, if the GPS disabled option is enabled in parking mode, it is necessary to give an additional idea to the suggestions above.
Because when GPS is disabled in parking mode, there will be no transition to normal speed-sensitive recording. Maybe normal recording can be evaluated here every time an image is detected.

The above suggestions will save both data and energy.
 
Last edited:
A119 mini 2 V1.0_20231030
@VIOFO-Support @viofo
When you want to watch video from the a119 mini 2 camera, the video sound becomes louder than in the menu.
This helps to hear the video recording while watching the video.
But when you go back to the menu, the loud sound persists. i.e. the menu and sound notification volume setting will be disabled until the next time it is turned on again.

This may happen to all models with a screen. because I created a history report for a129 pro but it did not work.

@VIOFO-Support
 
To: @ogzogz
CC: @viofo @VIOFO-Support


I've been using the 119M2 and its various firmware versions over the past month. Since my intention was to use the dashcam in battery powered surveillance mode, the "HK4 Mark 2" hardwire kit was provided free of charge by official VIOFO Support. This MkII version was designed to work with custom battery packs (no cut-off voltage at the 12.4V setting) while enabling functional Parking Mode. Parking Mode is essential because it provides access to Low-Bitrate mode, which offers:
Compact file size (80MB vs. 350MB)
Minimal power consumption (~1.8W)

Parking Mode

The statement disclosed here, that you can’t use Parking Mode with power banks, is true. Even a strong shadow in the FOV will cancel it. In other words, the 119M2 will enter Parking Mode after a 5-minute delay only when it is stationary and there is no movement in the FOV. To activate true Parking Mode, you must use the HK4 or HK4 MkII, as it uses the YELLOW (ACC) wire to send a signal to the camera unit. By disconnecting that wire, you can switch modes as needed. This is typically controlled by the ignition switch or button.

Battery

I have a custom 3S4P 21700 5000mAh x 12 battery pack with a DC barrel connector for faster charging. It’s an 11.1V (nominal), 20Ah, 200+Wh Li-Ion battery that provides 3-4 days of autonomy and takes 5 hours to charge (charging current: 12.6V @ 5A). I store it in the car trunk and charge it twice a week. In my BMW, there’s plenty of space near the car battery, making it easy to access. It costs more than the camera itself, and when the charger is included, it costs the same as the 119M2 FULL KIT. The only drawback is the internal cut-off voltage below 8 volts, which is harmful to the battery's lifespan (due to the Chinese BMS).

Power draw

We all agreed that power consumption should only be measured in watts, so my findings are that regular recording in time-lapse mode (200ms) uses 2.1W, while Low-Bitrate Parking Mode uses 1.8W. GPS is disabled in both cases. Regardless of the exact values, if you want to run this in 'sentry' mode like I do, you should reconsider using HK4.

HK4 Mark 2

It has a 5mA current draw compared to 12mA for some other step-down converters. I should mention it has a red LED, so we can't call it super efficient. I don't have the knowledge to calculate efficiency, but so far, it seems to perform well. Yes, I named it.

--
I’ll share future findings in another thread. I think we’re still not entirely clear on how Protected videos function. Sometimes the 119M2 doesn’t react to bumps (I slammed the table pretty hard), and once it ignored a button press (the yellow triangle flashed, but nothing happened). However, after it responded to the hazard button, every subsequent simulation worked. As Todd from Project Farm says, 'We’re gonna test that.'

PS Are both USB-C inputs the same, or is there still some mystery surrounding them?
 
PS Are both USB-C inputs the same,
One should provide mass storage mode when used with a data cable, the other won't.
The only drawback is the internal cut-off voltage below 8 volts, which is harmful to the battery's lifespan (due to the Chinese BMS).
I was arguing for HK4 Mk II to have a 10V cutoff, because that would be more use than zero cutoff. You could request a change from Viofo...
 
One should provide mass storage mode when used with a data cable, the other won't.
What happens if I plug in two power sources? Someone reported that the A119V3 had issues with the GPS module being powered.
I was arguing for HK4 Mk II to have a 10V cutoff, because that would be more use than zero cutoff. You could request a change from Viofo...
I prefer this layout. It was the cheapest solution yet still effective. The IC patching was done manually due to the box damage and the misaligned sticker (don’t worry, the sticker is now PERFECT). They will start shipping the Mk2 as is once the new production begins, and I hope they add a warning on the box. The reason is that 12.4V is too common for consumer vehicles; my car typically sits at 12.6V at most. A brand-new battery might reach higher, but with short commutes and smaller cars, this voltage is typical. I assume things are different with larger vehicles and 24V systems.
 
Someone reported that the A119V3 had issues with the GPS module being powered.
Was that recent?
Years ago, it was a problem because the wiring in the GPS module’s flat cable would move.

I think that was fixed, and people with older versions of the A119V3 just used the other power port. I do too—no big deal.

Running a car battery below 12V is supposed to damage it. Usually, a car battery is lead-acid, but if another battery technology, like LiFePO4, is being used, this may not be as much of an issue.
 
Running a car battery below 12V is supposed to damage it. Usually, a car battery is lead-acid, but if another battery technology, like LiFePO4, is being used, this may not be as much of an issue.
Now that you mention it, I've used some generic ChatGPT info, but... 'At 50% DoD, a dashcam that consumes about 5 watts could operate for approximately 4.5 days on a 12V 90Ah AGM battery. At 30% DoD, a dashcam that consumes about 5 watts could operate for approximately 2.7 days on a 12V 90Ah AGM battery.'

Aren't people reporting barely 24 hours of runtime on car batteries? Has anyone checked the voltage levels on the HK4?
Was that recent?
Ancient.
 
Now that you mention it, I've used some generic ChatGPT info, but... 'At 50% DoD, a dashcam that consumes about 5 watts could operate for approximately 4.5 days on a 12V 90Ah AGM battery. At 30% DoD, a dashcam that consumes about 5 watts could operate for approximately 2.7 days on a 12V 90Ah AGM battery.'
Unfortunately, that is maths, not reality!

When supplying small currents, lead acid batteries are very inefficient, you would be lucky to get 2 days on a full battery, and then you would drain it to the point that it would be being damaged.

Some AGM batteries are happy to be discharged down to 20% or more, others are not so happy to go below 50%, normal lead acid are not designed to go below 70%, below 50% does damage them.

Lithium batteries are very different, then the maths and reality match, and you can empty a lithium battery without causing significant damage.
 
Back
Top