Parts needed

[Hawggy]

I am using several G1w type camera's on my Motorcycle. I find that the female receptacle (now. permanently attached to the unit ) holding the male power supply that plugs in is getting loose and causing the unit to turn off automatically by itself.

Is there somewhere to obtain this part and I could solder it in or obtain a new motherboard without going to the expense of purchasing a complete new camera? I have ordered a new camera from Bangood to replace this broken one but would love to repair the 3 old ones with this worn out part.

 

[SawMaster]

The usual 2 problems here are are a loose socket which can be corrected by very slightly bending the shell so that the plug doesn't move around and makes more solid contact inside, or one of the solder joints on the board where the socket mounts has failed. In that case, a cure can usually be effected by applying some flux then re-heating the joint with a soldering iron; you shouldn't need more solder. Sometimes reheating without flux works, but a flux pen is cheap and it will help considerably. Be careful doing this as it's easy to 'bridge' the solder to another pin creating a short. Once the solder re-melts, draw the tip of the iron away from the back of the socket, not across the other connections, or draw it straight upwards away from the board. This will help in keeping the solder from bridging. Inspect with magnification before applying power. Pretty easy stuff but does require care and attention to the details I've had to bend the shell on 2 of these so far- both are working reliably a few months later with no signs of further loosening

I'm something of a G1Wx fan myself, but I think you'd be better served with a sturdier cam, these aren't terribly robust in the design or build. They're OK in cars with less impact and vibration but you're pushing it using them on a motorcycle.

Ride safe!
Phil

 

[Hawggy]

The usual 2 problems here are are a loose socket which can be corrected by very slightly bending the shell so that the plug doesn't move around and makes more solid contact inside, or one of the solder joints on the board where the socket mounts has failed. In that case, a cure can usually be effected by applying some flux then re-heating the joint with a soldering iron; you shouldn't need more solder. Sometimes reheating without flux works, but a flux pen is cheap and it will help considerably. Be careful doing this as it's easy to 'bridge' the solder to another pin creating a short. Once the solder re-melts, draw the tip of the iron away from the back of the socket, not across the other connections, or draw it straight upwards away from the board. This will help in keeping the solder from bridging. Inspect with magnification before applying power. Pretty easy stuff but does require care and attention to the details I've had to bend the shell on 2 of these so far- both are working reliably a few months later with no signs of further loosening

I'm something of a G1Wx fan myself, but I think you'd be better served with a sturdier cam, these aren't terribly robust in the design or build. They're OK in cars with less impact and vibration but you're pushing it using them on a motorcycle.

Ride safe!
Phil

Thanks Phil I may give that a try..and you are right..in our 3 cars I have never had a problem with the GW cams,,Just the Bike, and I attribute that to the vibration factor,