SGGCX2PRO sometimes does not boot up.

Yep, I was thinking about it already (as a last resort), but hoped the new firmware fixes it.
it's not so much a last resort, it's something that is required in some vehicles, normally diesel vehicles are a problem for this due to longer cranking time
 
> normally diesel vehicles are a problem for this due to longer cranking time

I sometimes switch to "on" then do something else, then ignite. It takes several seconds: during this period dashcam can even fully boot.
 
"If possible, have you tried another 12V socket in the vehicle to see if the same problem exists or if it goes away?" --- unfortunately I don't have any close (only one in the trunk). And as I mentioned, it happens rarely. I couldn't reproduce it while recording with a phone yet.

Others suggested a boot delay. I guess try that and see if the issue is resolved. If not, then you may have other problems. There's really Not much else the camera can do other than wait a few seconds after the car is started to power on.
 
"Others suggested a boot delay. I guess try that and see if the issue is resolved." --- it cannot _solve_ the problem, it would just shift the window of possibility to a later time. Otherwise - I don't see how "do something 5 seconds later" should really fix any problem.

"There's really Not much else the camera can do other than wait a few seconds after the car is started to power on." --- there is electronics that manages the bootup process. So camera can do A LOT. I still presume it's a race condition in the boot up logic.
 
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@jokiin

SD card benchmarking result look more or less expected for this card.

I will find a different power supply with mini-usb port (unless it has some unique characteristics so that I shouldn't really do it).

But I'm 99% sure it's not power supply.
 

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@jokiin

SD card benchmarking result look more or less expected for this card.

I will find a different power supply with mini-usb port (unless it has some unique characteristics so that I shouldn't really do it).

But I'm 99% sure it's not power supply.
ok let me know how you go once you've tested what you can on your end
 
Here I'm back, 1.5 years later.

I now have 2 cameras on 2 cars, and both have similar symptoms: the brand new camera I installed just yesterday DID NOT start when my wife had a ride to the mall. :shrug:

Some more details: the second car starts not by turning a key, but by pushing a button.

Is it me that is so unlucky or other people just don't notice the problem?

I love the camera quality (that's why I have purchased the second one), but I really expect it to "just work", the need to check every time that it started is a bit suboptimal.
 
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Here I'm back, 1.5 years later.

I now have 2 cameras on 2 cars, and both have similar symptoms: the brand new camera I installed just yesterday DID NOT start when my wife had a ride to the mall. :shrug:

Some more details: the second car starts not by turning a key, but by pushing a button.

Is it me that is so unlucky or other people just don't notice the problem?

I love the camera quality (that's why I have purchased the second one), but I really expect it to "just work", the need to check every time that it started is a bit suboptimal.

How are the cameras connected? Hardwire or 12V socket?
 
12V

And I have a video now:

The sequence of actions:

1. The car was started (using a car engine start button)
2. The camera didn't start
3. My attempts to start it using camera power button led to something weird - it blinked diods but didn't boot (see the video)
4. Eventually I pulled out and plugged the 12V back.

This is the new camera in a new car, the old one (installed in an old car) behaves exactly the same.
 
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12V

And I have a video now:

The sequence of actions:

1. The car was started (using a car engine start button)
2. The camera didn't start
3. My attempts to start it using camera power button led to something weird - it blinked diods but didn't boot (see the video)
4. Eventually I pulled out and plugged the 12V back.

This is the new camera in a new car, the old one (installed in an old car) behaves exactly the same.

1. I would start by upgrading camera to newest firmware.
2. Make sure the 12V is securely pushed into socket.
3. Set the camera to a 5 or 10 second boot delay in menu. The socket may not be getting power immediately when the car starts.
 
1. it's the latest already, I upgraded it yesterday
2. It is
3. "The socket may not be getting power immediately when the car starts." --- if the power is delivered a second later - then a camera should start a second later, it totally does not explain: a) why the camera does not start at all b) why when I push the power button on the camera it blinks the diodes and does not boot

I should emphasise especially on the fact that 2 different cars and 2 different cameras behave exactly the same. It's either same similar fault and I'm extremely unlucky, or it's common and people just don't bother.
 
With some cars you get power to the 12v outlet for a second or two, e.g. during preheat (diesel) only for it to be cut again while the starter motor is turning. Or you get a voltage drop while the engine turns over that prevents the camera starting properly.

With a push button start this can be outside of your control, v.s. a key where you can decide how long to stay in position 2 before turning to position 3.

That said, I've had no issues on my last 2 push-to-start cars with an A118C and now this camera, using the default value for startup delay.

You may just need to increase that startup delay a bit more.
 
1. it's the latest already, I upgraded it yesterday
2. It is
3. "The socket may not be getting power immediately when the car starts." --- if the power is delivered a second later - then a camera should start a second later, it totally does not explain: a) why the camera does not start at all b) why when I push the power button on the camera it blinks the diodes and does not boot

I should emphasise especially on the fact that 2 different cars and 2 different cameras behave exactly the same. It's either same similar fault and I'm extremely unlucky, or it's common and people just don't bother.

Set boot delay to 10 seconds in camera menu, and see if that resolves. Again, sometimes there can be an issue with voltage reaching the camera immediately. Please test this option.
 
With some cars you get power to the 12v outlet for a second or two, e.g. during preheat (diesel) only for it to be cut again while the starter motor is turning. Or you get a voltage drop while the engine turns over that prevents the camera starting properly.

With a push button start this can be outside of your control, v.s. a key where you can decide how long to stay in position 2 before turning to position 3.

That said, I've had no issues on my last 2 push-to-start cars with an A118C and now this camera, using the default value for startup delay.

You may just need to increase that startup delay a bit more.
Does this theory explain the camera's power button behaviour? What does the diodes blinking mean? Why does it not start if I push the power button manually after? Is it an expected behaviour?

The new car is not diesel. The old car is not diesel either. Increasing it on the old car didn't help.
 
Set boot delay to 10 seconds in camera menu, and see if that resolves. Again, sometimes there can be an issue with voltage reaching the camera immediately. Please test this option.
I'm an engineer: I hate trying random things without understanding why it should help. So far - all these advices are kind of voodoo or cargo cult. How your suggestion explains the camera's power button behaviour?

Increasing it on the old car didn't help a year ago.
 
Some more details: the second car starts not by turning a key, but by pushing a button.

If this is the brand new camera, in what i assume a car that you never had a camera in, and you have to push a button to get it going.
That to me sound like something is tripping up during the start phase, in which case using the boot delay would probably fix the problem.

Then again if you are powering it with the supplied PSU and from the dash lighter socket that do sound strange.
On the other hand if you have snipped off the 12 V plug from the original PSU, and then hardwired to a fuse ( and ground ) then the fuse you have tapped in to might be the reason why boot delay could be needed, CUZ as you say there is power there but to get things going you have to press a button, and thats not how things should work with a dashcam.

The only sort of similar i can recall from personal experience, granted with another brand camera, it was when i used a too long and too cheap USB extension wire to power a mobius camera on my back window, it would power on at will though some times just fine, that lead to me getting rear ended not being captured on video.
Honestreview asked about how you power the cameras, i dont think you replied on that ? Or maybe i am just too tired and need to go to bed.

I will highlight the boss jokiin that is sadly a bit under the weather these days due to surgery last week, i am not sure who else official to contact out there in the far east.

@jokiin
 
I'm an engineer: I hate trying random things without understanding why it should help. So far - all these advices are kind of voodoo or cargo cult. How your suggestion explains the camera's power button behaviour?

Increasing it on the old car didn't help a year ago.

This isn't a RANDOM THING. Sometimes the voltage doesn't kick it for a few seconds. Which is why a boot delay tells camera to wait X seconds before checking power and starting. Set it to 10 seconds. You came here asking for help, we're offering it. If those suggestions are inadequate to your liking, then not sure why you came here seeking recommendations.
 
This isn't a RANDOM THING. Sometimes the voltage doesn't kick it for a few seconds. Which is why a boot delay tells camera to wait X seconds before checking power and starting. Set it to 10 seconds. You came here asking for help, we're offering it. If those suggestions are inadequate to your liking, then not sure why you came here seeking recommendations.
I don't like because it makes very little sense: if a voltage "does not kick in for a few seconds" - then a device cannot wait, because _it's not powered_. Do you not see the controversy in your idea? Even if it's the case and the voltage is below 12V, enough to power part of the circuit - it still DOES NOT explain why after the voltage is at the expected 12V the camera only blinks with diodes and does not start. Electronics and software is not magic, the observed behaviours should have explanation, but yours simply does not fit. I suspect only those that designed (or reverse engineered) the board and firmware could explain what the blinking means.

Nevertheless, changing the boot time from 5 to 15 and even to the 30 seconds changes nothing: the camera still boots almost instantly (when boots). Demo in the video:

To summarise:

1. Boot delay feature does not work (at least on the most recent stable firmware)
2. There is unexplainable anomaly with camera power button that leads to diodes blinking but not starting
3. These symptoms are reproducible on 2 different x2pro+ (one bought almost 2 years ago, another - a month ago) in 2 different cars.
 
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Honestreview asked about how you power the cameras, i dont think you replied on that ? Or maybe i am just too tired and need to go to bed.
Oh, apologies, I may have missed that: both are powered using the original PSU throught the cigarette lighter.
 
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