Using LiPo battery parking mode instead of voltage limiter

I bought an Anker Astro 3 - 12000 mAh - 80% efficiency to power a G1W when the screen is OFF and motion detection and G Force are ON.
I paid for 1 business day delivery so I'll have it Dec. 24 for testing the run time (using FoVs estimates, the time should be about 36+ hours).
I won't run it into the ground, I'll check the time to when the 90% LED turns off.
I'll recharge and then connect two G1Ws and do the same test which should be 1/2 the time taken for just 1.
 
I bought an Anker Astro 3 - 12000 mAh - 80% efficiency to power a G1W when the screen is OFF and motion detection and G Force are ON.
I paid for 1 business day delivery so I'll have it Dec. 24 for testing the run time (using FoVs estimates, the time should be about 36+ hours).
I won't run it into the ground, I'll check the time to when the 90% LED turns off.
I'll recharge and then connect two G1Ws and do the same test which should be 1/2 the time taken for just 1.

Hi JWC

I am interested in your findings using the Anker Astro battery. In my case I would like to find a backup battery that will last a few days so as not to use the car battery at all. I figured if I buy 2 of them I can keep one in the car and the other on the charger then switch them out every 2-3 days. Since I park in an underground parking mode recording is primarily why I want a separate battery. Here is one option I looked at but haven't called the company to confirm it will work well with a dash cam.

http://www.powerstream.com/PST-MP3500-I.htm

Cheers
 
Hi FCG,
I found that the Anker 12,000mAh was able to run the G1W for about 27 hours when fully depleted or ~1 day when the room temperature was ~65-68F. The power consumption was still about 350mAh with just the motion detection ON and the screen OFF. The screen itself and the 'recording to SD card' don't consume much power.
It's the CPU that is constantly comparing the frames to detect differences that are interpreted to be motion and the voltage conversion from 5V to 3.7V that are power hungry. And this still happens when there's no motion to detect.

The run time will depend on:
1) the efficiency of the device, i.e. if it has 80% efficiency when converting voltage, then you can only get 12,000mAh x .8 before it's completely depleted.
2) the temperature, too cold or hot will reduce the run time.

That means that you'll need a battery with 24,000mAh to get ~2 days, etc. if you fully deplete the battery.
But you shouldn't routinely deplete it below 50% because, if you do, you reduce the life of the battery. So you should get a battery with quadruple capacity, i.e. 48,000mAh to run ~2 days.

For long run times you'd really need to buy:
1) a deep cycle 12V car battery and protective box/case and mounted securely in the trunk/boot, and
2) a battery isolator that allows the alternator to charge that battery but prevents that battery from being drained by the starter or any other devices except the camera, and
3) a voltage cut out that prevents the camera from totally depleting the battery, and
4) some #8 AWG wire to connect things.
The up side to this is that the alternator will charge the battery in-car so you don't need a second one to charge in the house.

J
 
Wonder about modifying a Lukas LK530 for use with a much bigger battery external to the product. That has a circuit designed specifically for dashcams and acts as a UPS and low voltage cut off device. The dashcam isn't powered off as 12 V in or battery power is used/switched for the output to the dashcam.
 
Hi FCG,
I found that the Anker 12,000mAh was able to run the G1W for about 27 hours when fully depleted or ~1 day when the room temperature was ~65-68F. The power consumption was still about 350mAh with just the motion detection ON and the screen OFF. The screen itself and the 'recording to SD card' don't consume much power.
It's the CPU that is constantly comparing the frames to detect differences that are interpreted to be motion and the voltage conversion from 5V to 3.7V that are power hungry. And this still happens when there's no motion to detect.

The run time will depend on:
1) the efficiency of the device, i.e. if it has 80% efficiency when converting voltage, then you can only get 12,000mAh x .8 before it's completely depleted.
2) the temperature, too cold or hot will reduce the run time.

That means that you'll need a battery with 24,000mAh to get ~2 days, etc. if you fully deplete the battery.
But you shouldn't routinely deplete it below 50% because, if you do, you reduce the life of the battery. So you should get a battery with quadruple capacity, i.e. 48,000mAh to run ~2 days.

For long run times you'd really need to buy:
1) a deep cycle 12V car battery and protective box/case and mounted securely in the trunk/boot, and
2) a battery isolator that allows the alternator to charge that battery but prevents that battery from being drained by the starter or any other devices except the camera, and
3) a voltage cut out that prevents the camera from totally depleting the battery, and
4) some #8 AWG wire to connect things.
The up side to this is that the alternator will charge the battery in-car so you don't need a second one to charge in the house.

J

Thank you JWC for your suggestions and observations with your Anker.

Cheers
 
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