Viofo A139 Pro - First Impressions

I like the more natural grey skies, the sky this time oif the year up here on the glove are not blue, well at least not if there are clouds, then it is some shade of grey.
 
I may try Nigel's suggestion of polishing the headlamps, although that has already been done recently by the workshop to meet the minimum roadworthy standard so I might be stuck with what I have.

I too drive an older vehicle and the headlights have been showing their age in recent years, especially from living and driving on dirt roads as I do. I polish the headlamps periodically with excellent success. The headlights were yellowed and fogged but now they are sparkling clear. It's not a difficult DIY project and it doesn't take long to do. The secret to doing a good job is to use the proper polishing products and to use a wool buffing pad on an electric drill.

The two products I use are NOVUS Plastic Polish fine scratch remover #2 and Meguiar's PlastX (@Nigel is on the right track here but I'm afraid he didn't recommend the correct product.)
I've been using NOVUS plastic polishing products on different projects for decades - it's the best stuff! I'm relatively new to the Meguiar's product which I've been experimenting with but I'm pleased with it as a secondary finisher polish. The alternative is to use NOVUS #1 as the final polish which is my usual practice. NOVUS #3 is overkill for vehicle headlights.

First apply NOVUS #2 thoroughly and vigorously by hand in circular motions making sure to cover the entire surface. Polish clean vigorously by hand also using circular motions. Then reapply a fairly thick application and let dry. Then polish thoroughly with the wool buffing wheel.

Next apply the Meguiar's PlastX using a soft cloth.

You'll be impressed with how well this works.

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(@Nigel is on the right track here but I'm afraid he didn't recommend the correct product.)
Have you tried the product I recommended?

It will do the job on its own, and without the need of a polishing machine.

Of course a polishing machine would be faster, but then you need to be very careful not to overheat the plastic lens, do not polish "vigorously" with a machine unless you have some experience!

If the lenses are bad then it might take a while to start having a noticeable effect, but once you are nearly there it will work quickly.

Finishing off with the PlastX will no doubt give a better result, and should add some protection, but I think that is probably for perfectionists, and unnecessary for old lenses.

I'm not expecting this to magically result in fantastic HDR plate reading similar to what Mtz's is getting with his LED headlamps. It was really a suggestion for getting through the next MOT without a very expensive bill for new headlamps. If you do need new headlamps then there are normally plenty of second hand ones available at decent cost and reasonable quality, if you plan in advance.
 
Have you tried the product I recommended?

It will do the job on its own, and without the need of a polishing machine.

Of course a polishing machine would be faster, but then you need to be very careful not to overheat the plastic lens, do not polish "vigorously" with a machine unless you have some experience!

If the lenses are bad then it might take a while to start having a noticeable effect, but once you are nearly there it will work quickly.

Finishing off with the PlastX will no doubt give a better result, and should add some protection, but I think that is probably for perfectionists, and unnecessary for old lenses.

I'm not expecting this to magically result in fantastic HDR plate reading similar to what Mtz's is getting with his LED headlamps. It was really a suggestion for getting through the next MOT without a very expensive bill for new headlamps. If you do need new headlamps then there are normally plenty of second hand ones available at decent cost and reasonable quality, if you plan in advance.

Yes Nigel, I am familiar with the other product. It's a polishing compound made for clear coat paint finishes and it does not work anywhere as well as the NOVUS products which are specifically forumlated for polishing and cleaning polycarbonate plastics. Of course, common sense and a bit of skill always dictates how one uses a power tool, especially while polishing a headlight lens. My once yellowed and hazy headlight lenses look absolutely crystal clear and brand new at this point. Holds up quite well too as it only needs a brief touch up once a year. No amount of hand polishing with any polishing agent would achieve the same results on an aging, fogged lens and you could never get such glass-like results eliminating scratches or haze without electric buffing. And why spend an hour or so polishing lenses by hand when you can do a far superior job with a power tool in a fraction of the time?

As for Meguiar's PlastX, you may claim it's only for perfectionists and not necessary for old lenses. I say it's for people who want to do a thorough and proper job that will look really good and stay that way for a long time. But as always, it is very amusing to see you present yourself as an absolute authority and expert on literally every subject, including this one, whether or not you know what you are talking about.

Interestingly, the guys at the garage where I have my truck worked on asked me how I got the headlights looking so clear as this is a rather expensive service they offer. They wanted to know where to buy NOVUS products because they want to try them. They use a different polishing compound that apparently might not work quite as well based on their interest in trying NOVUS products. NOVUS plastic polish has been on the market since the early 1970s. Products like this don't stay on the market for 50 years unless they perform as advertised.
 
Good exposure in high contrast winter sunlight. No CPL filter.
If your night videos are with CPL, please test without CPL.
 
If your night videos are with CPL, please test without CPL.
I have not tried the CPL with the A139 Pro. The HDR does a good enough job of reducing the glare caused by most reflections. I don't want to compromise performance by using the CPL unless I have to.
 
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I have not tried the CPL with the A139 Pro. The HDR does a good enough job of reducing most reflections. I don't want to compromise performance by using the CPL unless I have to.

HDR reduces reflections?
 
HDR reduces reflections?
No, sorry. I was being brief with my words. HDR appears to reduce the glare caused by bright sunlight reflecting off the road, dashboard and other surfaces.
 
No, sorry. I was being brief with my words. HDR appears to reduce the glare caused by bright sunlight reflecting off the road, dashboard and other surfaces.

OK, thanks...glare, that makes more sense. I was a bit puzzled by what you meant. Then I got to thinking, WAIT is there something I'm missing here? :)
 
A139 Pro 1CH HDR-ON - Night

The last of my first impression series, recorded at night without any streetlights and fairly slow-moving traffic.

Despite my cloudy headlights, I thought that the A139 Pro did an OK job to capture oncoming number plates and still retain good exposure and detail of the vehicle ahead. The video exposure and clarity is much better than the regular A139 with HDR.

Other drivers will probably get better results with brighter headlights.


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Yes, with brighter lights reflecting off the plates, your multi-exposure HDR would assist with the plate reading. As it is, it doesn't appear to have helped at all. I think the current firmware needs quite bright lights, and they also have to have beams that illuminate the plates, while older headlamps, pre-LED, tend to avoid illuminating the front of the approaching cars, unless maybe they have self-leveling mechanisms.


If the plastic lenses have clouded then give them a good polish with some fine abrasive polish, they can end up like new!
Although you are likely to have to repeat it once a year once the surface coatings have gone.


Loss of light is often due to deteriorated mirror surfaces though, and that is much harder to fix.
My experience with polishing old headlights is that yes, you can make them look new, but they start discoloring really fast after they have been polished. Even when you use the UV blocking coating that comes in the polishing kit. Better to just buy new headlights.
The most annoying thing about this is that on the car I did this on, even though the headlights were badly degraded, the tail lights still looked like new. They were both the same age. This proves it IS possible to make headlights that don't degrade, but they just don't.
 
My experience with polishing old headlights is that yes, you can make them look new, but they start discoloring really fast after they have been polished. Even when you use the UV blocking coating that comes in the polishing kit. Better to just buy new headlights.
The most annoying thing about this is that on the car I did this on, even though the headlights were badly degraded, the tail lights still looked like new. They were both the same age. This proves it IS possible to make headlights that don't degrade, but they just don't.
Most headlight lenses are made of polycarbonate, and that should last a year between polishes, although once the anti-scratch coating has gone, if you do a lot of miles then grit off the road will degrade it fairly quickly. Some are definitely better than others, but it will normally only be about the coatings rather than the plastic.
 
My experience with polishing old headlights is that yes, you can make them look new, but they start discoloring really fast after they have been polished. Even when you use the UV blocking coating that comes in the polishing kit. Better to just buy new headlights.
The most annoying thing about this is that on the car I did this on, even though the headlights were badly degraded, the tail lights still looked like new. They were both the same age. This proves it IS possible to make headlights that don't degrade, but they just don't.
It depends on which product you use. Many of them are crap.
Sylvania is without question the best headlight restoration kit on the market.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/B00429NKWK

Sylvania Headlight Restoration Kit ($21)
The Sylvania Headlight Restoration Kit provided the greatest improvement in illumination and appearance with no noticeable degradation over time. It involves a total of six steps, including progressively finer grades of emery paper, rinsing, and a final coat of UV-blocking polymer coating that is best applied with rubber gloves and in a well-ventilated area. Applied entirely by hand, it reduces the risk of damage to surrounding paint. The Sylvania sanding papers are larger than those included with some other products, making them easier to use, but the best results do require some effort.
Consumer Reports’ Take
All the headlight restoration kits worked to some degree on at least some headlights, but only the Sylvania could be used with all tested lenses. Further, the Sylvania product also provided the best and longest-lasting results. 3M provides similar performance at a lower price, but it carries the risk of scratching painted surfaces abutting headlights and should only be used by those comfortable with using power tools. Turtle Wax is the bargain-basement product of the bunch, at less than half the cost of the top-performing Sylvania. But neither Turtle Wax nor Fast Brite lasted as long as the others.

Detailed shootout of headlight restoration kits on the market by Project Farm:

Video instructions:
 
A139 Pro 1CH HDR

Good exposure in high contrast winter sunlight. No CPL filter.


New member and really appreciate the videos you provided. Seriously looking at the A139 Pro. Thank You
 
My experience with polishing old headlights is that yes, you can make them look new, but they start discoloring really fast after they have been polished.

Not been my experience at all. Since doing a major restoration using NOVUS products several years ago I've only needed to do a light touch-up once a year for abrasion from driving on dirt/gravel roads in my environment but there has been no further yellowing or discoloration.
 
I just go to the local Honda dealer. They charge $110 to restore headlights and that includes a lifetime warranty. I have done it on 2 cars with them, and so far the first pass has lasted over 6 years. They add a layer of clearcoat that seals them and it lasts a long time. One of the cars is just starting to get hazy, and I mentioned it at my last visit. They said anytime I am ready they can restore them again for free since I have a lifetime warranty. I will hold off, maybe later this year or next year. Makes sense if you keep your cars a long time like I do instead of messing with various kits and compounds.
 
A139 Pro HDR-ON (Early Afternoon, No Headlights)

This sample clip shows some of the good and bad things I have observed during my first month with the A139 Pro.

Recorded in the early afternoon driving towards the low winter sun, the scene contrast is rather high but there are no headlights to illuminate oncoming cars.

Settings:
Single channel, 3840x1600, max bitrate, EV-0.3, no CPL, HDR-ON, audio off for privacy


Observations:
Excellent dynamic range - my other cameras had dark shadows
Accurate colours
Bitrate high enough for high detail scenery at 4K resolution, such as driving between trees
Motion blur higher than expected (higher than my non-Starvis 2 camera)

Sample frames (full frame, then 100%) timed for the best number plate recognition:

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So, I know this might be an unpopular statement, but I'm not happy with the A139 Pro with HDR turned on. No matter whether it's day or night, I feel like I'm seeing far too much motion blur in everyday use to justify a 4K HDR camera for those few occasions where another car's number plate is over-exposed, or I'm driving directly towards the sun.

The dynamic range is excellent, colours are accurate, video noise is low, audio is nice and clear. In some situations the combination of 4K and HDR is genuinely useful and it is rather impressive that the dual frame capture and processing can be done in real-time. But I don't feel like I can rely on the A139 Pro with HDR-ON for capturing useful evidence for identification purposes.

When I think of the few occasions that I've actually needed my dashcam footage for evidence, I'm not sure this camera in 4K HDR mode would have been any better than my previous cameras - probably worse based on my observations so far.

I have now turned off HDR to see how well the A139 Pro performs as a regular 4K dashcam.
 
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unpopular statement
Not at all M8

It seem like there are some issues, i mean if HDR only work at 1 side of the day, but not in the other, that are for me reason for thought, so if i was in the market for a HDR camera ( which i still think would be a god sent for dashcams if it work properly )
Well then i would have to do a lot of thinking before pulling the trigger on this new camera.
In my book you should be able to successful use HDR night and day.

So far i am just looking forward to testing my first 4K camera, but it will take its sweet time at least in regard to the kickstarter one i am on board with, and i think as a tester i am not doing a good enough job so i will probably slowly fade from view.
 
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