Someoneone
New Member
It should also allow for easy input for solar panels for those who have extra cars who park outside.
The only current dash cam battery pack that has this is the Energy Well P6.It should also allow for easy input for solar panels for those who have extra cars who park outside.
I don’t mind not having warranty if it’s a good product. Have you tested it before?The only current dash cam battery pack that has this is the Energy Well P6.
The charge input connector is a barrel connector used by some solar panels.
Unfortunately it's not available in the US.
It's only sold in Canada, and EU.
View attachment 75072
View attachment 75073
I contacted the owner / person in charge, and requested the official US release date, and a test unit.Have you tested it before?
I contacted the owner / person in charge, and requested the official US release date, and a test unit.
Ken Chan: ken@stardeve.com
Ken informed me the unit will not be available to US customers because it does not have an FCC ID#.
Technically, without an FCC ID# a device cannot be used, or sold in the US, (cough 70mai). lol
Here are 5 must-have features for a good dash-cam battery in my opinion:
There is nothing complicated about these requirements, I have included them all in my LTO batteries using off-the-shelf components.
- A three-wire charging input - two main high current wires for charging and one ACC signal/sense wire. As @safedrivesolutions mentioned. That means built in power switch/relay.
- A ±10 second time delay (20 sec is unnecessary too long), or a really good soft-start charger that takes ±15-20 second to reach the max charging current. I prefer time delay as a more reliable option, otherwise the charger will draw full current as soon as ACC gets voltage.
- A low voltage cut-off, meaning the charger should stop charging at less than, say, ±12.6V, this is necessary when ignition is On but the engine is nor running, to protect car’s starting battery.
- High-Low current switch, actually I would prefer High-Medium-Low current switch, because different cars may have different amp-rated CLAs.
- And most importantly, the output to dash-cam must be “by-pass” and not “pass-through”. This will allow the dash-cam to be powered directly from the car's electrical system as soon as ACC input gets voltage, and with no time delay, it will also allow the dash-cam to work with the ignition-On but engine not running, and most importantly, the dash-cam, directly powered by the car’s electrical system will continue to work and protect while driving if for whatever reason battery pack fails.
They pretty much already have that, (maybe why GPak omitted it).Don't forget low/high temp charging cutoff or some sort of protection (eg. lower charge rate)
And to make it sell (for me) it's got to be cheaper than rolling your own.
Yes, as @Panzer Platform mentionedDon't forget low/high temp charging cutoff or some sort of protection (eg. lower charge rate)
And to make it sell (for me) it's got to be cheaper than rolling your own.