Viofo HK3 kit fails!

[1816kg]

Thank you for this post, you are confirming 99% of what I was guessing. It is showing a big difference compared to the first post of this thread and is based on a big experience with HK3, not with just one.

I don't know how is looking your listing and I am not asking to show me one to not be considered spam, but I think you need to find a way to tell them that the fuse must be verified on the fuse box of the car and not from any other source. Of course the order can be more complicated if the fusebox have both Normal (ATO) and Mini.
With the buyers which are reasonable you can explain that a Mini fuse tap can be used instead of Normal and instead of Mini Low Profile. More than that the Mini fits better compared to Mini Low Profile. So the only cases when Mini cannot be used are for Micro 2 and Micro 3 (which are very very rare).

PS: I am not interested in your store just because you are in USA and maybe Canada and I am from EU, so any buy from that region is too complicated for me, I prefer to buy from EU because of customs employers, taxes and VAT.

I tend to agree with bobcat here.
I have a story filled with frustration in regards to viofo hk3 hardware kit as well. 2 of them died on me already. I am waiting for a 3rd replacement. Email from the store confirms they have problems with these hk3 cables.
2 weeks ago I have purchased a129pro duo along with hk3 hardwire cable from a big reputable online store. The first cable worked on and off for 2 days, the second replacement died in 1 day.
After testing and installation everything worked flawlessly. I replaced the cable the same way and camera started working right away with no problems.
However, 24 hours later I have the same issue. The camera does not power up with HK3 cable at all again with a second cable.
The cable kit is connected to my 12v fuse box. This cable kit and the camera is protected with 10 amp fuse. Fuse is not blown and there is flow of power. I retested with multimeter that the cable gets proper ground, 12v constants battery power and 12v accessory power at the direct connections. HK3 cable receives verifiable power, but does not output anything.

This is what the store wrote back to me:

“So sorry to hear that you're having the same issues with your replacement hardwiring cable We have been seeing a higher number of inquiries regarding defective VIOFO hardwiring cables, and I think this could be our issue here (pretty bad case of bad luck). We have notified VIOFO of this issue, however, there's no way for us to tell which cables are affected and which are not.
I'll have another replacement shipped out to you. I recommend having this loosely run (IE. don't hide this within the vehicle yet) for you to monitor for at least a few days to ensure that this is fully functional. Just for transparency here, we've seen this effect about 10% of our customers who purchased a VIOFO dashcam within the last month or so.”

Any advice on what should I do? By the looks of it the next hk3 cable will die eventually as well?

 

[Kremmen]

If it's of any help I'm using a Nextbase HWK with my Viofo A119 V3.

I've had this HWK for about 7 years and it's still going strong across my many line of dashcams.


However ........ it is only a 2 wire kit so useless if you want Viofo parking mode.

 

[bobcat]

OP here.

So Viofo reached out to me and sent a replacement, which was nice of them. I've installed the unit about a week ago.

What was interesting is that the voltage on the output was 5.45v comparing to 5.55v in the first kit - inconsistency and a sign of poor QC for modern converters, as 100mV is rather a large gap for IC based regulators.

Long story short - the replacement unit failed as well after 3-4 days, so whoever is swearing by these kits, you may have been lucky, but based on my experience and @1816kg post above, there is clearly an issue going on with these units out there. Maybe a batch with defects or somethin, but viofo needs to acknowledge the problem and offer a solid solution.

One time may be bad luck but repeated negative experience is a sign of something being wrong...

Not to be a hater, I have A119 with older hardwiring kit on my other car which I've installed in 2016 and those are still going strong, but HK3 (or A139PRO+HK3 combination) definitely has an issue...

 

[1816kg]

One of the probable odd solutions is to switch original pcb for a separate 12v to 5v converter. Is that possible? I would need to know the exact specs, like amps? Also it would have to be 2 channel (or 2 converters) if to be used for parking mode. Then there would be a lack low voltage disconnect still. I would have to wire it in as well. Anyone know of good candidates for converter and low voltage disconnect, or maybe 2 in 1?
What is the name of the charging port on the camera itself? Is it some sort a standard? Is it possible to get other 3 wire kits with the same charging port?
Thank you.

 

[IAmATeaf]

With the failed HK kits, would it not be possible to send the failed hardware circuitry to Viofo, surely they must be just as interested as us to find out why these are supposedly failing?

 

[1816kg]

With the failed HK kits, would it not be possible to send the failed hardware circuitry to Viofo, surely they must be just as interested as us to find out why these are supposedly failing?

I am not sure how this works, but since the store is in communication with Viofo, I think Viofo is aware of the issue with HK3.
Imho, likely, it is deemed as financially acceptable loss to just keep replacing the cable within 3 month warranty period, hoping some will work.

 

[LateralNW]

However, 24 hours later I have the same issue. The camera does not power up with HK3 cable at all again with a second cable.

Fuse is not blown and there is flow of power. I retested with multimeter that the cable gets proper ground, 12v constants battery power and 12v accessory power at the direct connections. HK3 cable receives verifiable power, but does not output anything.

I have a few suggestion.
No output leads me to suggest this-
I have experienced a fuse in my car that appeared fine but my car would not start. Of course I had checked the fuse numerous times with a digital multimeter and every time I got continuity.
Out of complete frustration and hope I changed the fuse and my car started. Sounds obvious but when I have done tests and they pass, i disregarded any other cause.

So first could you change the fuse on all the circuits.
Then place an old type light bulb like a brake light globe and connect it across the end of your fuse tap.
WHY you may ask
What i discovered in my case was the fuse wasn't actually blown but was fatigued which meant it could supply a small amount of current like a DMM used but has no hope of driving something that requires a higher current draw.

Using a globe as a test will draw more current which will test your wire/ joins better.
Don't use a LED globe. Ideally you want to test your circuit can pull high current.
I know a dash cam won't require high current eg 10amps but you are just testing your wiring after the fuse and before the HK3

The other thought I had
Join the wires directly to the cars wiring loom bypassing the fuse box. Just to remove wiring as the issue. After a couple of days you will know based on what you have previously written.

They may be long shots, but my car taught me a lesson I'll never forget and figure it might help you.

Cheers

 

[1816kg]

I have a few suggestion.
No output leads me to suggest this-
I have experienced a fuse in my car that appeared fine but my car would not start. Of course I had checked the fuse numerous times with a digital multimeter and every time I got continuity.
Out of complete frustration and hope I changed the fuse and my car started. Sounds obvious but when I have done tests and they pass, i disregarded any other cause.

So first could you change the fuse on all the circuits.
Then place an old type light bulb like a brake light globe and connect it across the end of your fuse tap.
WHY you may ask
What i discovered in my case was the fuse wasn't actually blown but was fatigued which meant it could supply a small amount of current like a DMM used but has no hope of driving something that requires a higher current draw.

Using a globe as a test will draw more current which will test your wire/ joins better.
Don't use a LED globe. Ideally you want to test your circuit can pull high current.
I know a dash cam won't require high current eg 10amps but you are just testing your wiring after the fuse and before the HK3

The other thought I had
Join the wires directly to the cars wiring loom bypassing the fuse box. Just to remove wiring as the issue. After a couple of days you will know based on what you have previously written.

They may be long shots, but my car taught me a lesson I'll never forget and figure it might help you.

Cheers

Thank you for providing few suggestions. It’s great to hear others opinions. I will try to troubleshoot more.
I have not plugged in the cable directly bypassing the fuse, but these are some of the things that I did:
When my first not working cable was plugged in I did try different fuses, locations in the fuse box.
I was able to check that there was 12v after the fuse going into HK3 cable.
Probably the most telling is this: I left the first not working cable still wired and soldered in. As soon as I put the second cable right on these unshielded connections of the first cable with ground connected - everything worked beautifully as intended. Happily I rewired, re-soldered the second cable. But, unfortunately, it lasted only 1 day. Cam doesn’t power up again.
I still get 12v after the fuse going into HK3 cable. Ground is good as well.
Is there something I am doing wrong?

 

[LateralNW]

Thank you for providing few suggestions. It’s great to hear others opinions. I will try to troubleshoot more.
I have not plugged in the cable directly bypassing the fuse, but these are some of the things that I did:
When my first not working cable was plugged in I did try different fuses, locations in the fuse box.
I was able to check that there was 12v after the fuse going into HK3 cable.
Probably the most telling is this: I left the first not working cable still wired and soldered. As soon as I put the second cable right on these unshielded connections of the first cable with ground connected - everything worked beautifully as intended. Happily I rewired, re-soldered the second cable. But, unfortunately, it lasted only 1 day. Cam doesn’t power up again.
I still get 12v after the fuse going into HK3 cable. Ground is good as well.

If possible try connecting directly to the battery. Speaker wire can be used for the test. (I suggest speaker wire because I always seem to have it lying around usually because it's low grade but would be fine for the test)

I really think it important to move away from the fuse box just for testing.
I am assuming that the hk just fails and has nothing to do with parking mode.

Run the speaker wire inside the bonnet over the guard and away from moving parts (sorry but someone will most likely pull me up if I don't say it!)
And then in via your window to the dash cam hk making sure connections are sound (ie strong etc)
Join the red and yellow leads together for the test and make sure the negative is also connected all via the speaker wires.

These are the extremes I would go to because I like to know what and why something fail.

Alternatively wire the hk direct to battery with dash cam also sitting in bonnet and see how long it works. It eliminates the fuse box for sure.

Cheers

 

[1816kg]

If possible try connecting directly to the battery. Speaker wire can be used for the test. (I suggest speaker wire because I always seem to have it lying around usually because it's low grade but would be fine for the test)

I really think it important to move away from the fuse box just for testing.
I am assuming that the hk just fails and has nothing to do with parking mode.

Run the speaker wire inside the bonnet over the guard and away from moving parts (sorry but someone will most likely pull me up if I don't say it!)
And then in via your window to the dash cam hk making sure connections are sound (ie strong etc)
Join the red and yellow leads together for the test and make sure the negative is also connected all via the speaker wires.

These are the extremes I would go to because I like to know what and why something fail.

Alternatively wire the hk direct to battery with dash cam also sitting in bonnet and see how long it works. It eliminates the fuse box for sure.

Cheers

Do you want connect not working wire to the battery just to test? I can just take the camera and the wire to the battery if it is for the test purposes to make sure the cable is dead and the camera not powering up. Why is the need to keep it there semi permanent?
Thanks.

 

[LateralNW]

Do you want connect not working wire to the battery just to test? I can just take the camera and the wire to the battery if it is for the test purposes to make sure the cable is dead and the camera not powering up. Why is the need to keep it there semi permanent?
Thanks.

I'm not clear on your question.
Did you mean using the speaker wire test? If you mean the 2nd test just connecting it to the battery then there won't be any floating wires. (ie every wire will be connected to the battery) You don't need to keep the dashcam in there. I may have complicated my suggestions for you.

If you are talking about directly connecting the HK to the battery then connect all the wires.
Set the HK to 12.4 Volts cutoff.
Connect the HK to the battery. Black on the negative terminal and yellow and red on the positive terminal.
Connect the dashcam to the HK unit
Then start the dashcam.
See if it works. If it does it might mean the wiring in the fuse box might have a problem. At least you will have a starting point.

I only suggest this to eliminate any other causes.
If the unit passes after you have done this then it would mean your HK is not the problem.

Look forward to hearing back from you to hear the result.

If I'm not clear, and confusing you, I'm fine with you asking questions and I'll try to be brief.

 

[bobcat]

Did some more testing on the kits. It is clear to me that the kit fails while in park mode and needs a complete (red and yellow wire) power cycle to come back to life. I've decided to tap both wires to hot-on-run fuse (i.e. no park mode) and on few occasions camera randomly lost power while I was driving and would not turn on until engine power cycle. There is clearly a defect batch out there and more and more reports are popping up!

P.S. I tested 2 replacements. Viofo offered me to send the faulty units to their factory in china and provided an address written in chinese - sorry Viofo but I can't write in chinese. Had they provided a prepaid label with return address, I'd have no problem sending it back to them.

 

[viofo]

Did some more testing on the kits. It is clear to me that the kit fails while in park mode and needs a complete (red and yellow wire) power cycle to come back to life. I've decided to tap both wires to hot-on-run fuse (i.e. no park mode) and on few occasions camera randomly lost power while I was driving and would not turn on until engine power cycle. There is clearly a defect batch out there and more and more reports are popping up!

P.S. I tested 2 replacements. Viofo offered me to send the faulty units to their factory in china and provided an address written in chinese - sorry Viofo but I can't write in chinese. Had they provided a prepaid label with return address, I'd have no problem sending it back to them.

The Chinese return address is for print, normally there is also an English address, using the English address is also OK.
Thanks for your feedback.

 

[bobcat]

The Chinese return address is for print, normally there is also an English address, using the English address is also OK.
Thanks for your feedback.

Receiver: xxxxx
Address: Room 301，Building No.1, Huihuayuan, South of Donghuan 2nd Road, Longhua Street, Shenzhen,
Country: China
Post code: 518131
Tel: xxxx
Phone: xxxx
Chinese Address: 深圳市龙华区龙华街道东环二路南侧慧华园厂房1栋三层东面（一号电梯）
(Please include the Chinese address while you print the address label)
Use Post service(registered) to send back, don't use UPS, FedEx, DHL, because China Customs will charge very high import tax for these business carriers.
About the paper work in post office, please write the item name: "Defective ____ need repair",declare value USD10 in total to avoid tax.

Did not say that right upfront. In any case, I don't have time nor desire to disassemble my car for the 3rd time and just went with a regular non-park mode kit.

 

[viofo]

Thanks for your feedback, we keep checking on this, and checked 2 pcs returned hardwire kits, we found the power supply issues related to the fuse loose, not the hardwire kits themselves.

 

[bobcat]

Thanks for your feedback, we keep checking on this, and checked 2 pcs returned hardwire kits, we found the power supply issues related to the fuse loose, not the hardwire kits themselves.

I've never sent you anything. Not sure what two kits you are referring to...

Obviously for you the customer would be "stupid" and not knowing what they do. If you claim the fuse is the problem then why don't you provide the good fuse taps that work with you kit???

Worst thing any company can do is shift the blame to the customer.

 

[Mtz]

It is not Viofo fault if the user is not inserting correctly the fuse tap into the location or if they are not clamping correct the HK3 wire to the fuse tap or if the ground wire is not connected in a proper way. Even it is user fault, the manufacturers are supporting the lose. Do you think that Viofo or some other manufacturer are sending back the working product to the customer and ask for their money back? No! I know and they know that some buyers are just stupid and not knowing what are doing. All manufacturers are facing with stupids and this is normal. I saw so many childish instructions on some labels of the products made by manufacturers just to avoid the stupidity of some users. Things like: Open the bottle before drink, or Use the soap with water.

 

[viofo]

We don't want to blame the customers, I just tell the truth about what we found from the 2 returned hardwire kits.
This is also a good found, if the hardwire kits doesn't work, we can tell users to check the fuse also.

 

[bobcat]

It is not Viofo fault if the user is not inserting correctly the fuse tap into the location or if they are not clamping correct the HK3 wire to the fuse tap or if the ground wire is not connected in a proper way. Even it is user fault, the manufacturers are supporting the lose. Do you think that Viofo or some other manufacturer are sending back the working product to the customer and ask for their money back? No! I know and they know that some buyers are just stupid and not knowing what are doing. All manufacturers are facing with stupids and this is normal. I saw so many childish instructions on some labels of the products made by manufacturers just to avoid the stupidity of some users. Things like: Open the bottle before drink, or Use the soap with water.

I get that... but who told you I was doing it incorrectly or the fuse was my problem? I believe I have a bit more knowledge in electronics to do it right and also tested it multiple times as well.

From Viofo's response it sounds like they tested MY units ("two failed units" which I mentioned in previous posts) maybe unintentionally, but misleading everyone to believe that they received MY units and came to a conclusion that the issue was on the fuse taps.

First of all, I've never send them anything back.

Second - there is absolutely no way they can come to a conclusion that the Fuse tap is the reason... To get to that conclusion, they'd have to receive the car as well and investigate the whole circuit and not make a blatant statement like that. The issue could be anything from bad wiring, fuse box issues, voltage supply on the car, EMI weapons right next to the kit... whatever else you can come up with. In my case, I tested both circuits and they both were getting proper power supply and it was the IC that was not outputting any active logic and power, while receiving proper power.

Third - this issue has a very random occurrence. The regulator can work fine for weeks and then fail needing a complete power cycle or they can only work 3 days - statistics from the 2 kits I have. If I just connect them to a bench power supply, obviously everything will look perfectly fine.

I am not trying to say fuse taps could not be the problem. Most likely this is the problem in most cases when people don't know what they are doing. But this cause is also very easy to identify as well. If my fuse tap was somehow faulty or not making contact, I'd probably loose a key element of my car's functionality as well. I repeat - there are no issues on the supply side at all - at least in my set-up. When failures occurred, I've disassembled the modules prior to disconnecting anything and made sure they were getting proper supply both on B+ and VCC pins to sort out any potential issues on the car side. Also changed the fuse taps and fuses used to a different brand to rule that out completely when I got the second kit.

I can pretty much reverse engineer the thing if I really wanted to, but straight up I can tell that one of the two ICs is going into tripping balls mode for an unknown reason (either Logic IC that does V-in readings and power cut-off settings or the NDP1335KC which is a common DC step-down reg from China).

 

[bobcat]

For reference, the kit has 4.5 stars on amazon with these 5 reviews being the most recent. Can't ignore that there is a problem with last batch...