Mobius Maxi F1.5 2.7k

I would have called your image a spatula! But apparently it is OK to call that a knife: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Putty_knife

The real putty knife is the tool used to push the putty bead into place and shape it, so it does not have to be flexible. I don't think either of our images are true putty knifes.

I think some of the distinctions between knife and spatula have to do with the common variations in nomenclature between the UK and the US, so to me the long bladed tool in your photo is a "spatula" and the photo I posted is considered a putty "knife". Here, any tradesman would immediately characterize the tool I posted as a "putty knife" as that is what they are called here. I also have a couple of those 12 inch wide sheet rock "knives" mentioned in the Wikipedia link you posted that look like giant putty knives and I also have couple of thinner longer masonry tools that here in the US would be called "spatulas".

Whatever we call them I prefer the shorter wider ones for 3M tape mount removal because they offer greater leverage and precise control of the force applied but I can see where the long ones may also have their value.
 
I think some of the distinctions between knife and spatula have to do with the common variations in nomenclature between the UK and the US, so to me the long bladed tool in your photo is a "spatula" and the photo I posted is considered a putty "knife". Here, any tradesman would immediately characterize the tool I posted as a "putty knife" as that is what they are called here. I also have a couple of those 12 inch wide sheet rock "knives" mentioned in the Wikipedia link you posted that look like giant putty knives and I also have couple of thinner longer masonry tools that here in the US would be called "spatulas".

Whatever we call them I prefer the shorter wider ones for 3M tape mount removal because they offer greater leverage and precise control of the force applied but I can see where the long ones may also have their value.

we generally follow the UK terminology but in this case we call them the same as the US, putty knife is the wide one the long one is a spatula
 
yeah I would too, I mentioned screwdrivers because people have used them, and cracked their windows in the process
I guess I was lucky then :oops:
 
we generally follow the UK terminology but in this case we call them the same as the US, putty knife is the wide one the long one is a spatula
What about in the kitchen?
There the wide one is the spatula and the narrow one a palette knife in UK.
 
What about in the kitchen?
There the wide one is the spatula and the narrow one a palette knife in UK.

we don't follow that naming either, the wide one never makes it to the kitchen, that's a BBQ tool here, the thin one is a spatula used for icing cakes
 
As a US tradesman, over here they are all called "Putty Knives" but a few have specific names in the trades which use them. I'm also an expert Glazier, and I prefer a stiff putty knife for most of this because of the technique I use. I constantly feed the glazing compound with one hand into the raised side of the knife as I drag it along perpindicular to the bead. A perfect job quickly in one shot but it takes practice to do well. I have one putty knife like Dashmellow speaks of which is thin and limber and almost shaving sharp. Nobody even touches that one except me under threat of having their head bashed in. It is absolutely perfect for certain jobs and the edge as delicate as a scalpel so even dropping it could destroy it. It's so old I can't remember where I got it, and I've never found one anywhere close to it. Never tried it with 3M but it would likely be perfect for that too.

If you want something similar, get the thinnest putty knife you can find and lay it almost flat gently on a belt sander, dipping the knife in water every couple seconds to not remove the temper from the metal. As it gets really thin reduce the sanding time accordingly. A belt sander is also a good way to restore a chipped chisel edge, again being careful with overheating. I should do a YouTube series on all the tricks I've learned through the years.

Phil
 
I've used a belt sander to dress putty knives. Works great!
The thinnest and most flexible one I own, the one that seems to work best for 3M tape removal came from the local dollar store.
 
This putty knife will easily flex to the curvature of the car glass, and like all putty knifes will not scratch the glass, they are designed for applying and removing the putty that holds glass in it's wooden frame:
Off topic. I used to use this in the kitchen for apply jam o_O

Why not use 3m command adhesive?
 
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All the 3m Command I have seen is white, and that stands out on a windshield where everything else is black. And I'm unsure how well it would do in the heat of the sun.

Phil
 
Off topic. I used to use this in the kitchen for apply jam o_O

Why not use 3m command adhesive?

3M Command adhesive strips can work for dash cams but they are rated to hold a bond up to 125º F (51.11º C) which is a temp often achieved on a windshield in a car on a sunny day. 3M VHB tape #5952 is rated up to 194ºF (90ºC).

Command strips are available in black.
 
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Techmoan did a popular how to video about using dental floss to remove "sticky mounts" from a car windscreen. As he says in the demonstration, "It takes awhile" as he then edits a jump cut into the video to speed things up because of how long the process takes. Not only does sawing away with string or dental floss take quite a lot of time, it's rather unpleasant on the fingers, especially if you find yourself needing to wrap some of the string around your fingers to get a good enough grip to do the job.

I'm not sure why you've introduced "screwdrivers" into the discussion as I never mentioned them and would certainly caution against the use of screwdrivers for this purpose as they are narrow, thicker and lack the forgiving flexibility and supportive width of a thin bladed putty knife. A flat, thin putty knife slowly and carefully wiggled in behind the camera mount and gently twisted back and forth safely performs the same task as string, only faster and more efficiently. Another thing I like about using a putty knife is that it can be used on the mount from different angles during the job and this too facilitates removal. Finally, with the use of a putty knife instead of string your other hand is free to use in facilitating the mount removal during the operation. As with many things about dash cam installation, those who lack even the most basic skills should probably turn to someone else for help.

Of course, anyone who prefers to use the string method certainly should; there's nothing inherently wrong with it. I'm just offering an alternative approach that takes far less time and is easier on the fingers.

I never mentioned screwdrivers, Jokin did. I used a hairdryer, putty knife and isoproyl alcohol.

Just another example of how you troll every thread looking for an argument, if not with me, with others who "dare" to hold an opinion different to yours.

As for my idiocy in wanting dash cameras more rugged, a post you're trolled from a thread almost a year old, yes I'm getting old and occasionally drop things. You never remove your dashcam so it never happens to you, but if you remove something thousands of times a year, maybe 6-10 times a day, then eventually, yes you will drop it. Decent build quality isn't an unreasonable demand for something small, portable, often removed and easily dropped. Qudos to Mobius for making some effort here compared to many others.

As for you, it's time to accept other people have opinions different to yours and you're not always right, and there's not always a single answer for everything. It's also time to stop trolling for arguments, the very thing you accuse those you argue with of doing to you, ergo a post pulled from 1 year ago to this thread and off topic......
 
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Please can we get back on-topic and talk about the Maxi?
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Are there any specific features you would like to see improved / added to the Maxi, for dashcam or any other use? Please keep your suggestions reasonable - I don't think Mobius will make a $200 lens option available!
How about adding a purchase option with the f1.2 lens that is so well liked on this forum?
A 25mm? cpl adapter that would sit on the lens while also sitting flat on the top of the mobius maxi's case to put the filter in the exact right position would be appreciated. having a standard camera screw thread in the adapter would allow the use of other filters beyond just a cpl. Although 25mm is slightly oversize for the maxi I can not find any smaller filters that would work when mounted on the 18mm lens barrel.

A slip on (and tightened further with a small screw or 2) threaded 25mm adapter for the lens b to allow the use of multiple filters.
A lens ring adapter (already readily available) would allow the use of even larger mm filters such as a uv filter for lens protection in a rc mishap..
Perhaps offering an adapter to use already available small gopro or other small action cam filters would be a better option.

I have another interesting possible solution. A cpl for dash cam use needs to be removable. A clip on adapter with a locking hinge on the side that allows a cpl to be placed in front of the lens (clicking in place) or to be swung out of the way for night use could be an option. Designed right it would slide over the maxi's lens and case like a sleeve to ensure it would not be in the wrong position. Then a quick move would move the assembly in front or away from the lens.



A quick measure shows the maxi lens B is just about 18mm across the outside of the barrel and 19mm with the lens cap installed.


We can approximate the overall size of a cpl or other lens filters by placing typical U.S. coins in front of the lens with the cap on. Anything 30mm or larger is really to large.

https://www.usmint.gov/learn/coin-and-medal-programs/coin-specifications
A dime is 17.91 mm
A penny is 19.05 mm
A nickel is 21.21 mm
A quarter is 24.26 mm
A 1/2 dollar coin is 30.61 mm (to large imho)
A silver dollar from 1794-1964 (and newer non-silver dates prior to its smaller sized replacements) is 38.1 mm across. (way to large imho).

I have found 25, 30mm, and 37mm camera lens filters to be the best sized options that are readily available. The 25mm is the best size I have found for this application
Here is a size comparison of a 25mm cpl to a quarter. This is almost the ideal size for the mobius maxi. I could not find a 19 to 21mm filter. A 37mm cpl is just to big for this camera.

s-l1600.jpg
 
I never mentioned screwdrivers, Jokin did. I used a hairdryer, putty knife and isoproyl alcohol.

Just another example of how you troll every thread looking for an argument, if not with me, with others who "dare" to hold an opinion different to yours.

As for my idiocy in wanting dash cameras more rugged, a post you're trolled from a thread almost a year old, yes I'm getting old and occasionally drop things. You never remove your dashcam so it never happens to you, but if you remove something thousands of times a year, maybe 6-10 times a day, then eventually, yes you will drop it. Decent build quality isn't an unreasonable demand for something small, portable, often removed and easily dropped. Qudos to Mobius for making some effort here compared to many others.

As for you, it's time to accept other people have opinions different to yours and you're not always right, and there's not always a single answer for everything. It's also time to stop trolling for arguments, the very thing you accuse those you argue with of doing to you, ergo a post pulled from 1 year ago to this thread and off topic......

Trolling you?!!! You are quoting my reply to jokiin, not YOU! And jokiin didn't take my comment as an attack or provocation, he responded with a simple explanation for why he mentioned screwdrivers and cracked windscreens, to which I replied that “People sure do dumb things sometimes, don't they” and that was the end of it and we all moved on to an interesting, hopefully practical and occasionally amusing discussion about the use of putty knives for our purposes as well as their nomenclature.

You need to get a grip on yourself and stop with these paranoid hysterics!

And speaking of trolling, two weeks ago you initiated a six day insufferably repetitious argument about IR strobe photography after I casually mentioned that I might like to do some experimentation with some IR strobe emitters I own, insisting over and over that it can't work even though I never said a word about what sort of experimentation I intended to do or what sort of camera equipment I might use. Despite my repeated requests that you cease with your badgering, you continued. And here you are doing essentially the same thing. I say you are the troll here.

For some peculiar reason, time after time you keep twisting your tedious arguments into disputes about some ancillary, unrelated subject matter. Here, the subject was actually about how you are the only one among us who's ineptitude caused you to damage the glass on a windscreen removing a 3M VHB tape mount, not whether you used a screwdriver or some other instrument to cause the damage.

Similarly, when I pointed out that the so called “high end” lens you were touting for the 2.7K Mobius Maxi was actually designed for a camera with a resolution of 640 x 480 pixels you shifted to a tedious argument about the semantics of the words “recommend” vs “suggest” as a way of sidestepping the actual issue I brought to your attention. And when I explained that “recommend” and “suggest” are literally synonyms that you can look up in any thesaurus or dictionary, you continued the argument more than 24 hours later claiming this fact is “rubbish”, thus continuing with the bickering. And why did you feel it appropriate to even start talking about alternative lenses in the first place in this thread about the Mobius Maxi? There are threads specifically dedicated to alternative lenses for the Mobius that you are well aware of.

If you are getting so old that you keep dropping things, perhaps you shouldn't even be driving at this point.

But really, the reason I've brought it up again is that your story about repeatedly dropping your camera on the pavement until you broke it has become somewhat of the benchmark for all the other outlandish logic we hear from you.

Instead of taking measures to avoid dropping your camera you went on and on for weeks (or was it months?) with a table pounding rant about how manufacturers should build ruggedized, armored dashboard cameras just for maladroit people like you who are so clumsy that they repeatedly drop their sensitive electronic/optical gadgets onto the concrete pavement all the time, something that I can confidently assure you manufacturers of dash cams will never ever do.

It has often been said that if your head hurts from banging it against a wall, the cure for the pain is to stop banging your head against the wall. Somehow, weirdly, according to your logic the solution is to have developers construct buildings with padded walls!

Another aspect of this story I have difficulty forgetting the more you engage me with this kind of logic is that at the time I suggested (or was it recommended?, I forget) that the way to avoid dropping your camera when you transport it from home to car was to get a tote bag or satchel of some sort, a simple solution you adamantly and repeatedly rejected for mysterious reasons.

Often it feels as if you live in some sort of strange alternate reality where you just make stuff up to suit your narrative in these, umm, “discussions” we have. Here, you are now stating as fact that, “You never remove your dashcam so it never happens to you.” (dropping your cams on the pavement) Where do you get such an odd notion? I've certainly never said such a thing. For two years now, I've been installing and removing at least one or more cameras per day, every day, such as my varifocal Mobius cams, the Mobius 2 I tested for 11 months and more recently the Mobius Maxi.

And you know what? I transport these cameras back and forth each day from my house to where I park my vehicle in the safe and secure side pocket of a tote bag, along with power banks and whatever else I may need to carry with me for the day. This way I don't risking dropping the cameras on the ground. It's all so simple.

So, look my friend, enough with both of us disrupting this thread with this nonsense. Let's move on, shall we? There are more worthwhile topics to explore.
 
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Here is a badly mocked up view of what I had in mind for a mobius maxi (cpl) filter holder.
I only wrapped a piece of paper around the right areas to show the concept.
The 3 buttons need to be uncovered. Solid plastic should allow this to be created if anyone wanted to make it happen.

Project3.jpg


Project2.jpg



To compare cpl filterProject1.jpg sizes look at these coins. You can see how anything over 30mm gets way to big.
 
I like the ideas.

However, isn't the easiest solution just a 25mm CPL in a magnetic holder so it just sticks to the front of the mobius?

If you want it to remove it without affecting the rotation then a hybrid of your other idea may be the best solution - a holder with a hinged CPL on the front. In which case what you want is something like this:

https://www.camerasunderwater.co.uk/nauticam-81221-flip-holder-for-multiplier-to-use-on-smc-i.html

This is for diving but strikes me as an ideal design - you can fix it in place with the screws, then hinge the CPL off / on at will.

If anyone thinks the screw fixing might make rotational adjustment difficult, then the screw ring could just be replaced with a magnetic ring using a sufficiently strong magnet to hold it firmly in place, but weak enough to allow some rotation. Whereas I believe in keeping it simple, a further more complex idea could be a screw ring to attach to the lens, with a rotating ring on top that could be fixed in position with another screw, and the CPL hinged to this.
 
2 years ago I knocked up a simple Mobius CPL, using the original 3D-printed SG9665GC filter and a small bridging plate across to the Mobius 2 camera body. This sample was held in place by VHB, but I could have used small magnets similar to those shown.

2016-11-06-02-17-38-jpg.27260


I'm sure a similar solution can be achieved with the Maxi and a SG/Viofo CPL holder which is rectangular.
1537197648088.png
 
Just found this, if anyone has a 3D printer, there's the design in a link here to print the flip filter shown also in the link. It's 67 mm, but I'm guessing that could easily be changed to 25mm, with some extra width added to the inner ring to make it fit the Mobius lens:

http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=49073

Anyone have a 3D printer and the knowledge to alter the dimensions as necessary?
 
The mobius series of cameras have round lenses without any threads. A rotating cpl filter could easily be moved just enough while installing it to be ineffective. Therefore a fixed position cpl is the best option. The mobius series of cameras all have a flat case. Making a fixed position cpl that slides over the lens and aligns by using the flat case as an alignment guide for a perfect install would eliminate all questions of cpl alignment. I proposed a flat section on top of the mobius maxi case for alignment as much as an attachment.

The idea of a simple clamp on lens filter attachment is great when you can adjust the cpl and see the results to ensure proper positioning. However, the mobius lacks the screen to verify proper cpl position on each install. Even if the wifi gets activated most people will not remember to adjust the cpl every time it is put on. Therefore I reject the idea of mounting a cpl by mounting it on the lens barrel alone. This would be a great solution for almost every other available filter such as a UV filter but a cpl must be rotated into a position for it will work well.

A similar idea to the holder with a hinged CPL c4rc4m linked to above is feasible. Glue the clip part on the side (or top) of the mobius maxi case. It could swing out of the way without moving out of position relative to the camera itself. If space was at a premium (to close to a windshield) the cpl filter could slide in or out of position from the side (like a gate in a rail fence) instead of moving in an arc.

Regarding use of a magnetic attachment where is the metal in the mobius maxi that a magnet will be attracted to?
 
The mobius series of cameras have round lenses without any threads. A rotating cpl filter could easily be moved just enough while installing it to be ineffective. Therefore a fixed position cpl is the best option. The mobius series of cameras all have a flat case. Making a fixed position cpl that slides over the lens and aligns by using the flat case as an alignment guide for a perfect install would eliminate all questions of cpl alignment. I proposed a flat section on top of the mobius maxi case for alignment as much as an attachment.

The idea of a simple clamp on lens filter attachment is great when you can adjust the cpl and see the results to ensure proper positioning. However, the mobius lacks the screen to verify proper cpl position on each install. Even if the wifi gets activated most people will not remember to adjust the cpl every time it is put on. Therefore I reject the idea of mounting a cpl by mounting it on the lens barrel alone. This would be a great solution for almost every other available filter such as a UV filter but a cpl must be rotated into a position for it will work well.

A similar idea to the holder with a hinged CPL c4rc4m linked to above is feasible. Glue the clip part on the side (or top) of the mobius maxi case. It could swing out of the way without moving out of position relative to the camera itself. If space was at a premium (to close to a windshield) the cpl filter could slide in or out of position from the side (like a gate in a rail fence) instead of moving in an arc.

Regarding use of a magnetic attachment where is the metal in the mobius maxi that a magnet will be attracted to?

Some good points, for a solution that you removed, you'd have to set it up in webcam mode and then mark both the lens and CPL to allow accurate refitting. I haven't studied the Mobius Maxi lens, so wasn't aware there were no ferrous metals involved. I presume therefore the lens end is Alu? Obviously that rules out magnets unless you were to bond a ferrous ring or magnetic ring of the correct pole orientation to the lens body to attract the magnetic cpl holder.

For the hinged bracket solution, not sure why this would be an issue on the barrel alone. I'm sure it would be made so it could be tightened enough to give a good grip, although here this may rule out certain materials due to the need to tighten it quite hard. Once on, there's no need to remove it unless broken as the the hinge allows CPL / non CPL in situ. I'd suggest the chances of the one shown in the link moving are greater due to the fact it's being moved through water, although being larger there's also more friction onto the lens body.

I agree, a plate onto the Mobius body may provide additional rotational resistance, but unless manufactured carefully to match the contours of the case it's going to look a pigs ear. Even if manufactured carefully, you may still get dust collecting around the joints making it obvious as an addition over time. I guess it may depend on where people's priorities lie, but personally, I don't like the aesthetic implications of having a flat plate onto the body.

One suggestion that's just sprung to mind from the plate idea, that could be feasible could be to have a larger cradle with a holder that snaps to the base of the cradle in some way. That would overcome the rotational issues whilst leaving the camera itself untouched. A flip down holder could still be a possibility here provided the camera was mounted more than around 30mm (?) or so from the screen.
 
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