you'll get better results from the camera if you point the lens down a bit further
Thank you for the advice.
you'll get better results from the camera if you point the lens down a bit further
you'll get better results from the camera if you point the lens down a bit further
Not about reflection, just about white balance, too much sky and not enough road
Battery capacities are not measured in amps.I don't know how big is your battery but in europe average battery size is about 70 amperes so 40 amps will make car inoperative.
Just loaded V3.3 firmware yesterday, so still early. I've measured power draw for V3.1 firmware in the various Parking Mode sub-modes (Normal recording, Standby Mode, and Time-lapse) but not published. To give you a rough idea of the results: Standby Mode (not recording) draws about 1/2 the power of Normal Recording, and Time-lapse draws about 4/5 the power of Normal Recording, even at 1 fps (surprisingly). I want to re-verify the Time-lapse numbers.
The easiest way to activate and sustain the different sub modes is in the comfort of your home as follows:
- Use the supplied long or short USB cable and connect to a USB wall charger or USB power bank. To see what the camera is doing precisely, you need to turn screensaver OFF.
- Set up the camera to include a TV or something moving in the FOV of the camera.
- At power up the A119 starts in Normal recording which is sustained by continued motion in the FOV (Motion Detection) and/or camera movement (G-sensor).
- The A119 will not go into Time-lapse recording without first going to Standby Mode.
- To activate the Standby Mode, cover the lens with a dark cloth and don't move or jar the camera. After 1.5 minutes or so the LCD (if on) will turn off, the red REC button light will turn off, and the green Power button light will turn on. Camera is now in Standby mode (not recording) and will stay there as long as no motion is sensed in the camera FOV and no camera movement is sensed (by the G-sensor).
- To activate Time-lapse recording, remove the cover from the lens without moving the camera and provide motion (e.g. a TV) in the camera FOV. The green Power button light goes out, and the red REC button light turns on indicating the camera is in either Time-lapse or Normal recording (you can't tell looking at the lights). If screensaver is off, Time-lapse recording is indicated by the "xFPS" symbol, where x is that value selected in the PM menu, below and left of the red blinking record dot. Time-lapse recording is sustained by motion in the camera FOV.
- To activate Normal recording, gently pick up or move the camera. Parking Mode Normal recording is indicated on the LCD screen by the "car" icon below left of the blinking red record dot (replacing the "xFPS" symbol). Too much movement may generate an Event (emergency) recording indicated by the big yellow triangle on the LCD. Either motion in the FOV or camera movement (G-sensor trigger) will sustain Normal recording.
- If for some reason you interrupt recording while in Parking Mode by pressing the REC button, you may need to check and reset the G-sensor menu setting if it has stuck in "High Sensitivity".
if they aren't measured in amps, then why do they bother to write the CCA (cold-cranking amps) on every single automotive battery i've ever seen?Battery capacities are not measured in amps.
Hi Qubi,And the hardwire kit should have protection against battery drain...https://www.viofo.com/accessories/19-51-mini-0801a119a119sa119-proa118a118ca118c2b40wr1-car-camera-hardwire-kit.html#/28-hardwire_kit-normal