Hardwire Kit and Key Fob Range

[zephiris]

I have the SGGCX2PRO with a rear camera. I have the hardwire kit so it'll keep recording when I'm parked. I've noticed that the range for my key fob is shorter after installing the kit. Didn't get a chance to test anything until yesterday, but when I took out the kit, and put the fuse back in, the range gone back to what it was before. I had the ACC connected to 37 (Accessory) and BAT connected to 17 (rear accessory power socket in console compartment). I then assumed that I fuses I chose wasn't ideal, so I connected to them to 35 (rear passenger side power window) and 40 (accessory power socket console panel), based on some recommendations and testing the state of them when I got the hardwire kit.

The range on my key fob seems to be fine yesterday, but earlier today, the range seems to be iffy, half the time it works far away, half the time I had to be a lot closer.

When I was testing the range, it was in a near empty parking lot with like 2 cars.

Any ideas what could be wrong, or is this normal?

Thanks

 

[kamkar]

I get some key fob issues too ( not having any hard wire kits ) and its the same place where i shop and some times it have been so bad the FOB almost don't work at all, making me look around to see if anyone are operating a jammer.
But a few days later it is fine ( without making any changes to dashcams in my car )
I have also noticed the same in the back yard where i park, some times the rage are a few paces, other times it work from 25 feet.

 

[jokiin]

Some vehicles can have reduced range of the key fob when in parking mode

 

[zephiris]

Some vehicles can have reduced range of the key fob when in parking mode

Good to know. Do you happen to know the cause, or if there are any settings that won't affect the key fob range?

 

[jokiin]

What vehicle is it?

 

[HonestReview]

I have the SGGCX2PRO with a rear camera. I have the hardwire kit so it'll keep recording when I'm parked. I've noticed that the range for my key fob is shorter after installing the kit. Didn't get a chance to test anything until yesterday, but when I took out the kit, and put the fuse back in, the range gone back to what it was before. I had the ACC connected to 37 (Accessory) and BAT connected to 17 (rear accessory power socket in console compartment). I then assumed that I fuses I chose wasn't ideal, so I connected to them to 35 (rear passenger side power window) and 40 (accessory power socket console panel), based on some recommendations and testing the state of them when I got the hardwire kit.

The range on my key fob seems to be fine yesterday, but earlier today, the range seems to be iffy, half the time it works far away, half the time I had to be a lot closer.

When I was testing the range, it was in a near empty parking lot with like 2 cars.

Any ideas what could be wrong, or is this normal?

Thanks

1. Weak Keyfob battery
2. Interference and/or another signal operating on same band

Test in a sub division and away from stores. Or in a large parking lot with a clean line of visibility. See if the fob workers fine or not. This is going to be a trial and error session to narrow down the possibilities.

 

[zephiris]

What vehicle is it?

2013 Honda Accord

1. Weak Keyfob battery
2. Interference and/or another signal operating on same band

Test in a sub division and away from stores. Or in a large parking lot with a clean line of visibility. See if the fob workers fine or not. This is going to be a trial and error session to narrow down the possibilities.

I don't think it's the battery since it's fine with the hard wire isn't installed. I've tested the same key fob in a basically empty parking lot with a clean line of sight to it. When the hard wire kit, the range gets cut in half or more at times, was all the time before I changed it to a different fuse.

 

[jokiin]

If changing the fuse location altered the results then it may be that the power supply is too close to the keyless entry module, I'm not sure where it is located in your vehicle but I'll ask our tech if he knows

 

[HonestReview]

If changing the fuse location altered the results then it may be that the power supply is too close to the keyless entry module, I'm not sure where it is located in your vehicle but I'll ask our tech if he knows

Sounds like he tested another fuse, and got the same results, if I'm understanding correctly. It would be helpful if he posted a link to his vehicle manual with the Fuse Schematic to see if there may be conflicts.

I do know when I piggy backed a fuse on my first attempt, I thought I was gold, until I kept coming out to find my camera enabled after being shut off. Finally figured out that the fuse I selected was somehow tied to the security system. So when I went to lock my doors, fold mirrors, and enable alarm, it caused camera to power on. Nothing listed in manual saying the two were tied together.

Once I selected another fuse, everything resolved.

Based on OP's description, I'm guessing he might be tying into fuses with a conflict. Since he states the his Fob battery isn't weak + he has a clean line of sight on vehicle. Though I am a bit skeptical here on his clean line of sight and interference argument....

The range on my key fob seems to be fine yesterday, but earlier today, the range seems to be iffy, half the time it works far away, half the time I had to be a lot closer.

Also:

I had the ACC connected to 37 (Accessory) and BAT connected to 17 (rear accessory power socket in console compartment). I then assumed that I fuses I chose wasn't ideal, so I connected to them to 35 (rear passenger side power window) and 40 (accessory power socket console panel), based on some recommendations and testing the state of them when I got the hardwire kit.

The range on my key fob seems to be fine yesterday, but earlier today, the range seems to be iffy, half the time it works far away, half the time I had to be a lot closer.

 

[kamkar]

I think when installing hard wire kits, many are inclined to put it right there next to the fuse box.
So if it was me having problems i would try to space the HW kit out ( the box with the PSU / cut off ) and i thing most HW kits have a generous length of wire on the supply side of the box.

 

[zephiris]

Sounds like he tested another fuse, and got the same results, if I'm understanding correctly. It would be helpful if he posted a link to his vehicle manual with the Fuse Schematic to see if there may be conflicts.

I do know when I piggy backed a fuse on my first attempt, I thought I was gold, until I kept coming out to find my camera enabled after being shut off. Finally figured out that the fuse I selected was somehow tied to the security system. So when I went to lock my doors, fold mirrors, and enable alarm, it caused camera to power on. Nothing listed in manual saying the two were tied together.

Once I selected another fuse, everything resolved.

Based on OP's description, I'm guessing he might be tying into fuses with a conflict. Since he states the his Fob battery isn't weak + he has a clean line of sight on vehicle. Though I am a bit skeptical here on his clean line of sight and interference argument....



Also:

Here's an image of the fuse information.



Before I set it up, I asked about which fuses I should use, and in the end I ended up checking the following:

Fuse	Description	Multimeter reading
14	rear accessory power socket in console compartment	always high
27	parking light	no reading
34	rear driver side power window	high when in accessory mode
35	rear passenger side power window	high when in accessory mode
37	accessory	high when in accessory mode
40	accessory power socket console panel	always high

In terms of my line of sight an interference, but before I used the hardwire kit, and it was plugged into a socket so it only works when my car is on, I was able to lock my car from inside my work building, after, I have to watch at least halfway to my car to lock/unlock my car. As of yesterday, it was 50/50 on whether I can do it when far away, just outside the door of my building.

Thanks

 

[HonestReview]

Here's an image of the fuse information.

View attachment 50497

Before I set it up, I asked about which fuses I should use, and in the end I ended up checking the following:

Fuse	Description	Multimeter reading
14	rear accessory power socket in console compartment	always high
27	parking light	no reading
34	rear driver side power window	high when in accessory mode
35	rear passenger side power window	high when in accessory mode
37	accessory	high when in accessory mode
40	accessory power socket console panel	always high

In terms of my line of sight an interference, but before I used the hardwire kit, and it was plugged into a socket so it only works when my car is on, I was able to lock my car from inside my work building, after, I have to watch at least halfway to my car to lock/unlock my car. As of yesterday, it was 50/50 on whether I can do it when far away, just outside the door of my building.

Thanks

I hardwired my vehicle into Power Seats (Battery / Always On) - Fuse 15 or 36 (weird 2 fuses control your power seats) and 17 (Heated Seats) for ACC. Can't say that'll work 100% on your vehicle, as each car is different, but I've run my camera for going on a year now problem free.

Note: BE SURE THE BLACK GROUND IS WIRED TO A METAL BACKED SCREW!

Also, before switching fuses, try moving the hardwiring amp cutoff further away from fuse box as others suggested (unravel cord and put in back seat) to see if that changes anything. I.E. if Hardwire kit is causing interference. If not, try the fuses I suggested.

 

[zephiris]

I think when installing hard wire kits, many are inclined to put it right there next to the fuse box.
So if it was me having problems i would try to space the HW kit out ( the box with the PSU / cut off ) and i thing most HW kits have a generous length of wire on the supply side of the box.

Are you talking about the block on it? It's about 2-3 inches away from the fuses. The fuses are located on the front left side, under everything, so I routed the cable going around the top, going down behind the rubber part where the door closes in, then goes to the fuse box area. I wanted it to be all in that same area where it can mostly be tucked away, so I don't accidentally kick it or pull it when I move my leg. Here's a picture of it, although it's not the best since it's a little hard to get to.

I hardwired my vehicle into Power Seats (Battery / Always On) - Fuse 15 or 36 (weird 2 fuses control your power seats) and 17 (Heated Seats) for ACC. Can't say that'll work 100% on your vehicle, as each car is different, but I've run my camera for going on a year now problem free.

Note: BE SURE THE BLACK GROUND IS WIRED TO A METAL BACKED SCREW!

Also, before switching fuses, try moving the hardwiring amp cutoff further away from fuse box as others suggested (unravel cord and put in back seat) to see if that changes anything. I.E. if Hardwire kit is causing interference. If not, try the fuses I suggested.

I can try moving the block and see, but the only way I can see running it will be down the side of the car so it doesn't get caught in anything. I won't be able to test to see if it works or not until next week. Won't be in the same area where I tested it before until Monday.

For the ground wire, there was only that one screw that I can access, and it goes through that plastic piece and then screws into a piece of metal which seems like part of the car, so I think that part is fine.

Thanks

 

[kamkar]

Yes the block, i assume if there are any RF noise it should come from there.

 

[HonestReview]

Are you talking about the block on it? It's about 2-3 inches away from the fuses. The fuses are located on the front left side, under everything, so I routed the cable going around the top, going down behind the rubber part where the door closes in, then goes to the fuse box area. I wanted it to be all in that same area where it can mostly be tucked away, so I don't accidentally kick it or pull it when I move my leg. Here's a picture of it, although it's not the best since it's a little hard to get to.

View attachment 50498



I can try moving the block and see, but the only way I can see running it will be down the side of the car so it doesn't get caught in anything. I won't be able to test to see if it works or not until next week. Won't be in the same area where I tested it before until Monday.

For the ground wire, there was only that one screw that I can access, and it goes through that plastic piece and then screws into a piece of metal which seems like part of the car, so I think that part is fine.

Thanks

1. Your ground wire is fine. It's hooked to a screw with a metal backing. A+

2. Very easy to test: Walk X distance (same as parking lot) and test your vehicle's keyfob. Now, Ttake the black Box, undo the twist tie, and move it away from the fuse box. Test to see if KeyFob works better.

A. If KeyFob works better - Great.. You'll need to put the hardwiring kit fuse cutoff (black box) in another location.
B. If that doesn't work, test the fuses I suggested.

 

[jokiin]

possibly unrelated to the issue but the ground point there is not good, look for the factory ground point which most likely will be somewhere nearby the rear of the fuse panel, you'll know it when you see it as there will be a few earth cables terminated together

 

[HonestReview]

possibly unrelated to the issue but the ground point there is not good, look for the factory ground point which most likely will be somewhere nearby the rear of the fuse panel, you'll know it when you see it as there will be a few earth cables terminated together

Can't you use a screw with a metal backing? Or what would be issue in taking this route? - I hardwired my cameras the same way using a metal screw with metal backing. So I'm wondering if i did something wrong? Or what's the rationale that this is bad practice?

I had a mechanic friend show me some tips and he didn't feel there was an issue. Course, I've wired more cams since then without issue.

 

[jokiin]

anywhere where dashboard plastics mount to are often insulated for NVH reasons and can suffer voltage drop over time, direct to the vehicle body is best, that's why factory ground points are always done that way, grounding to a different location to other items on the same circuit can also lead to ground loop interference

 

[HonestReview]

anywhere where dashboard plastics mount to are often insulated for NVH reasons and can suffer voltage drop over time, direct to the vehicle body is best, that's why factory ground points are always done that way, grounding to a different location to other items on the same circuit can also lead to ground loop interference

Follow up question...When wiring the Dash Camera in a my second car, I inadvertently forgot to ground the black wire (thought I had). Camera wouldn't turn on and I wondered what the heck. I Powered off car, double checked, and discovered the black wiring dangling

So my question, if the camera isn't connected to a proper ground point, or loses grounding, wouldn't a dash camera fail to power on? Similar to how my second Viofo A129 Duo acted when I'd forgot?

 

[jokiin]

it won't power on without a ground, a poor ground can lead to voltage sag which can lead to stability issues