Shouldn't be an issue if your downgrading.I know, but when i update to 2.01 there was also a loader file.
And i wonder, if that can break dowgrade process.
http://support.viofo.com/support/discussions/topics/19000014834/page/3?url_locale=
Thanks to Trung. It works.
Gents, it is not the cable, microSD and adapter problem. It is the firmware problem.
Please follow Trung's instruction and hope you all solve the problem.
Hi everyone! I kept coming across this thread for a while as I was researching a solution for my a119, so I think I should share what solved my issue.
My a119 was working flawlessly for about 8 months and then randomly, when I started my car, the startup chime was endlessly repeating itself and it was stuck on the Viofo logo. It was not a power/cable issue, sd card issue, and flashing the firmware did nothing. I tried every possible thing you can imagine, in regards to software fixes and reboots... So I gave up for a while and then found a reddit post made a month ago which provided the solution:
What worked was opening up the body of the camera, disconnecting and reconnecting the sensor ribbon cable (the cable that connects the "camera" to the "motherboard"). Its basically unplugging and plugging back in a cable. Simple as that. The a119 booted up like nothing happened. For everyone I came across that had this issue or a similar one where flashing the firmware didn't work, this was the solution. So it's good to know that this wasn't only happening to me.
I recommend trying to flash the firmware first, as that has helped many people, but this could be your final step if you don't want to pay to send it back for repair.
Now, this isn't too hard to do, but I would watch this video to understand how to do it properly. Took about 5-10 mins and I was being extra careful:(note, you only have to get to the part where he disconnects the ribbon. You don't need to open up the sensor).
TLDR;
Just had to reseat (reconnect) the ribbon cable.
why would someone have to re-insert that cable so many times?FYI - that sensor ribbon cable and latch have been opened and closed over 50 times and still works.
why would someone have to re-insert that cable so many times?
anyway, thanks for the tips, it helped me to recover my rear A119 twice (once yesterday and once today), but my front A119 didn't make it a week earlier. shows no sign of life. it all started with my front camera when I found out there is no 4+ hours trip on a card, so I checked the camera. booted up only to a logo screen, plugging unplugging the power made it to boot maybe twice to a frozen screen with a multi color vertical strip on a left side. I took it home and tried to re-flash the loader and the firmware a couple of times but ended up with no lights on any button.
to find out if it's a GPS fault yesterday I moved my rear camera to the front, mounted on a GPS, and on a boot (the camera worked just fine prior the move) it didn't pass the logo screen. than it didn't pass the logo screen during boot without GPS, so I brought it home and re-flashed the firmware 2 or 3 times (tried to downgrade to previous versions), but the camera booted up only after I re-plugged that ribbon cable. tested at home and in a car on it's own GPS and it worked. today on a first boot I got multi color strip on a left 2 or 3 times, than just a logo screen so I had to take it home and did the same thing I did to it yesterday, and for now the camera works on a non-GPS mount on my windshield, but for how long?
understood. I appreciate your advises and definitely will use them.I've been tinkering with my A119/S DVRs for over a year and swap out 4 different Lens combinations, so that ribbon cable clip get used often. Your issue could be caused by road vibration loosening all the connections. I'd disassemble the Dashcam and open the Lens housing and reconnect both ends of the Sensor cable. Do the same with the thin GPS/Power ribbon cable (delicate). Ensure the ribbon is fully inserted for each end. Look for ribbon cuts especially on the thin GPS/Power cable, it runs along the case screw mount in the corner (very bad design) i've almost broken mine during reassembly when closing the clam-shell back cover pinching the thin ribbon cable.
Driving often on rough roads or detaching & reattaching the DVR daily puts pressure on the contact plate slowly loosening it over time. On the original version-1 gold-pin contact plate, both screws stripped, forced to glue the tiny 4 contact circuit board to back cover plate. End Users that open their Dashcams should avoid stressing these thin ribbon cable connections, reconnecting them usually restores functionality. The A119/S design is easier than most Dash Cams for DIY Repairs and tinkering.
Keep in mind all Dashcams / devices are affected by extreme heat causing permanent damage over time. If the Dashcam reaches the internal high-temp limit of 75-80C too often it will reduce the lifespan of the device. Also note VIOFO has on going BUGs in their Firmware so we role-the-dice with each version. Experienced DVR users know this well and expect it, we all becoming BETA testers for device manufacturers. One last tip mentioned in my videos, if the Dash Cam works perfectly on cool days then fails on hot days consider the modifications in my Tips video. Improving air-flow and reducing Menu Setting Features will reduce generated heat, especially changing 60fps to 30fps, during the cooler season change back to 60fps. Hope this Helps someone, let me know... Subscribe to my YouTube Channel.
Browse all BCHobbyist WorkShop videos:
https://www.youtube.com/user/bchobbyist
Maybe both caps are dead?understood. I appreciate your advises and definitely will use them.
what about nothing on a camera screen at all and no lights on buttons? any magic tricks for that case?
I'll check them. Thanks!Maybe both caps are dead?
I’ve also seen this happen when the camera didn’t like the memory card. Try powering without a card if you haven’t tried yet.I'll check them. Thanks!
I still hope to recover a camera.I’ve also seen this happen when the camera didn’t like the memory card. Try powering without a card if you haven’t tried yet.
Always Troubleshoot any device by removing all extra accessories. For A119/S remove memory card, remove GPS mount, then swap-out as many required parts as possible. Try different power sources, different USB cables, look close at side power socket for damage or loose jack on circuit board. Look inside for shorted wires or screw touching a contact. Bad capacitors will bulge slightly on top or even split and leak. Note if the capacitor wires are twisted or one leg broken. Check all internal ribbon cables for cuts, breaks or not seated fully.I still hope to recover a camera.![]()
have you ever tried to connect a power to a camera board without lens ribbon cable connected? and / or without GPS cable connected? what would you see on a screen?Always Troubleshoot any device by removing all extra accessories. For A119/S remove memory card, remove GPS mount, then swap-out as many required parts as possible. Try different power sources, different USB cables, look close at side power socket for damage or loose jack on circuit board. Look inside for shorted wires or screw touching a contact. Bad capacitors will bulge slightly on top or even split and leak. Note if the capacitor wires are twisted or one leg broken. Check all internal ribbon cables for cuts, breaks or not seated fully.
Since your DVR is dead, I'd also disconnect the sensor ribbon cable and check for power drain changes, you won't damage anything for a short test. Look carefully at the outside edges of ribbon cable for cuts.have you ever tried to connect a power to a camera board without lens ribbon cable connected? and / or without GPS cable connected? what would you see on a screen?
I see no lights on a REC button, but with the power connected through a multimeter I see 0.07A load with the card inside, and no load without it. could it be the capacitors or a shortage somewhere?
Thanks a lot for all your help, I'll keep playing with the camera and will use all your suggestions but in a worst case scenario I already have in mind a replacement for it - I feel myself half-naked with just one camera.I expect to hear you successfully isolated and repaired the DVR, good luck.
I already replaced the caps more then once and I had to remove the board, there is no way to do it without removing the board. both cams worked after caps replacement and the rear still works as of today. those minor things like re-flashing the firmware or re-plug the ribbon cable I don't even count, it's nothing.There is no need to remove the board to replace the caps. While it would obviously make it easier, I would avoid removing everything. There is always the risk of damaging something. Simply tilt the board up 90 degrees and use something to hold it there. Remove the old caps, cut the leads on the new caps to the appropriate length and solder in. Pay attention to polarity. Fold them down the same way the old ones were so everything will go back together as before.
what exactly are these and where could I get them?Based on the numerous A119/S BAD CAP reports I'd replace both with $1.25 Japan Caps.
The following tech detail is from one Electronics Hobbyist to another all others ignore thread ..what exactly are these and where could I get them?