A119 Stop Recording, Only Show VIOFO logo on screen

I know, but when i update to 2.01 there was also a loader file.
And i wonder, if that can break dowgrade process.
 
owah said:
http://support.viofo.com/support/discussions/topics/19000014834/page/3?url_locale=

Thanks to Trung. It works.

Gents, it is not the cable, microSD and adapter problem. It is the firmware problem.
Please follow Trung's instruction and hope you all solve the problem.
Click to expand...

Trung's instruction is works.
Gents, I had the same problem with my Viofo A119. It started to show logo and didn't move to rec. stage. The instruction that Trung gives in the official Support page of Viofo truly works.
1. Use http://support.viofo.com/support/discussions/topics/19000014834/page/3?url_locale= to access to official support web page.
2. Use YouTube video in conjunction with above link to see how to download proper firmware and how to load it to the camera. https://youtu.be/RcI5dQZoHXM
Good luck.
 
Hi everyone! I kept coming across this thread for a while as I was researching a solution for my a119, so I think I should share what solved my issue.

My a119 was working flawlessly for about 8 months and then randomly, when I started my car, the startup chime was endlessly repeating itself and it was stuck on the Viofo logo. It was not a power/cable issue, sd card issue, and flashing the firmware did nothing. I tried every possible thing you can imagine, in regards to software fixes and reboots... So I gave up for a while and then found a reddit post made a month ago which provided the solution:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Dashcam/comments/8pztsr/_/e0fhler

What worked was opening up the body of the camera, disconnecting and reconnecting the sensor ribbon cable (the cable that connects the "camera" to the "motherboard"). Its basically unplugging and plugging back in a cable. Simple as that. The a119 booted up like nothing happened. For everyone I came across that had this issue or a similar one where flashing the firmware didn't work, this was the solution. So it's good to know that this wasn't only happening to me.

I recommend trying to flash the firmware first, as that has helped many people, but this could be your final step if you don't want to pay to send it back for repair.
Now, this isn't too hard to do, but I would watch this video to understand how to do it properly. Took about 5-10 mins and I was being extra careful:
(note, you only have to get to the part where he disconnects the ribbon. You don't need to open up the sensor).

TLDR;
Just had to reseat (reconnect) the ribbon cable.
 
intaliano said:
Hi everyone! I kept coming across this thread for a while as I was researching a solution for my a119, so I think I should share what solved my issue.

My a119 was working flawlessly for about 8 months and then randomly, when I started my car, the startup chime was endlessly repeating itself and it was stuck on the Viofo logo. It was not a power/cable issue, sd card issue, and flashing the firmware did nothing. I tried every possible thing you can imagine, in regards to software fixes and reboots... So I gave up for a while and then found a reddit post made a month ago which provided the solution:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Dashcam/comments/8pztsr/_/e0fhler

What worked was opening up the body of the camera, disconnecting and reconnecting the sensor ribbon cable (the cable that connects the "camera" to the "motherboard"). Its basically unplugging and plugging back in a cable. Simple as that. The a119 booted up like nothing happened. For everyone I came across that had this issue or a similar one where flashing the firmware didn't work, this was the solution. So it's good to know that this wasn't only happening to me.

I recommend trying to flash the firmware first, as that has helped many people, but this could be your final step if you don't want to pay to send it back for repair.
Now, this isn't too hard to do, but I would watch this video to understand how to do it properly. Took about 5-10 mins and I was being extra careful:
(note, you only have to get to the part where he disconnects the ribbon. You don't need to open up the sensor).

TLDR;
Just had to reseat (reconnect) the ribbon cable.
Click to expand...

FYI - that sensor ribbon cable and latch have been opened and closed over 50 times and still works. I created that closeup to show exactly how deep the ribbon must be inserted. If consumers are receiving new A119/S Dashcams with Screen Frozen issue it's still a Production Line quality control problem. Glad you found my video helpful.
 
BCHobbyist said:
FYI - that sensor ribbon cable and latch have been opened and closed over 50 times and still works.
Click to expand...
why would someone have to re-insert that cable so many times?
anyway, thanks for the tips, it helped me to recover my rear A119 twice (once yesterday and once today), but my front A119 didn't make it a week earlier. shows no sign of life. it all started with my front camera when I found out there is no 4+ hours trip on a card, so I checked the camera. booted up only to a logo screen, plugging unplugging the power made it to boot maybe twice to a frozen screen with a multi color vertical strip on a left side. I took it home and tried to re-flash the loader and the firmware a couple of times but ended up with no lights on any button.
to find out if it's a GPS fault yesterday I moved my rear camera to the front, mounted on a GPS, and on a boot (the camera worked just fine prior the move) it didn't pass the logo screen. than it didn't pass the logo screen during boot without GPS, so I brought it home and re-flashed the firmware 2 or 3 times (tried to downgrade to previous versions), but the camera booted up only after I re-plugged that ribbon cable. tested at home and in a car on it's own GPS and it worked. today on a first boot I got multi color strip on a left 2 or 3 times, than just a logo screen so I had to take it home and did the same thing I did to it yesterday, and for now the camera works on a non-GPS mount on my windshield, but for how long?
 
borik said:
why would someone have to re-insert that cable so many times?
anyway, thanks for the tips, it helped me to recover my rear A119 twice (once yesterday and once today), but my front A119 didn't make it a week earlier. shows no sign of life. it all started with my front camera when I found out there is no 4+ hours trip on a card, so I checked the camera. booted up only to a logo screen, plugging unplugging the power made it to boot maybe twice to a frozen screen with a multi color vertical strip on a left side. I took it home and tried to re-flash the loader and the firmware a couple of times but ended up with no lights on any button.
to find out if it's a GPS fault yesterday I moved my rear camera to the front, mounted on a GPS, and on a boot (the camera worked just fine prior the move) it didn't pass the logo screen. than it didn't pass the logo screen during boot without GPS, so I brought it home and re-flashed the firmware 2 or 3 times (tried to downgrade to previous versions), but the camera booted up only after I re-plugged that ribbon cable. tested at home and in a car on it's own GPS and it worked. today on a first boot I got multi color strip on a left 2 or 3 times, than just a logo screen so I had to take it home and did the same thing I did to it yesterday, and for now the camera works on a non-GPS mount on my windshield, but for how long?
Click to expand...

I've been tinkering with my A119/S DVRs for over a year and swap out 4 different Lens combinations, so that ribbon cable clip get used often. Your issue could be caused by road vibration loosening all the connections. I'd disassemble the Dashcam and open the Lens housing and reconnect both ends of the Sensor cable. Do the same with the thin GPS/Power ribbon cable (delicate). Ensure the ribbon is fully inserted for each end. Look for ribbon cuts especially on the thin GPS/Power cable, it runs along the case screw mount in the corner (very bad design) i've almost broken mine during reassembly when closing the clam-shell back cover pinching the thin ribbon cable.
Driving often on rough roads or detaching & reattaching the DVR daily puts pressure on the contact plate slowly loosening it over time. On the original version-1 gold-pin contact plate, both screws stripped, forced to glue the tiny 4 contact circuit board to back cover plate. End Users that open their Dashcams should avoid stressing these thin ribbon cable connections, reconnecting them usually restores functionality. The A119/S design is easier than most Dash Cams for DIY Repairs and tinkering.

Keep in mind all Dashcams / devices are affected by extreme heat causing permanent damage over time. If the Dashcam reaches the internal high-temp limit of 75-80C too often it will reduce the lifespan of the device. Also note VIOFO has on going BUGs in their Firmware so we role-the-dice with each version. Experienced DVR users know this well and expect it, we all becoming BETA testers for device manufacturers. One last tip mentioned in my videos, if the Dash Cam works perfectly on cool days then fails on hot days consider the modifications in my Tips video. Improving air-flow and reducing Menu Setting Features will reduce generated heat, especially changing 60fps to 30fps, during the cooler season change back to 60fps. Hope this Helps someone, let me know... Subscribe to my YouTube Channel.
Browse all BCHobbyist WorkShop videos:
https://www.youtube.com/user/bchobbyist
 
BCHobbyist said:
I've been tinkering with my A119/S DVRs for over a year and swap out 4 different Lens combinations, so that ribbon cable clip get used often. Your issue could be caused by road vibration loosening all the connections. I'd disassemble the Dashcam and open the Lens housing and reconnect both ends of the Sensor cable. Do the same with the thin GPS/Power ribbon cable (delicate). Ensure the ribbon is fully inserted for each end. Look for ribbon cuts especially on the thin GPS/Power cable, it runs along the case screw mount in the corner (very bad design) i've almost broken mine during reassembly when closing the clam-shell back cover pinching the thin ribbon cable.
Driving often on rough roads or detaching & reattaching the DVR daily puts pressure on the contact plate slowly loosening it over time. On the original version-1 gold-pin contact plate, both screws stripped, forced to glue the tiny 4 contact circuit board to back cover plate. End Users that open their Dashcams should avoid stressing these thin ribbon cable connections, reconnecting them usually restores functionality. The A119/S design is easier than most Dash Cams for DIY Repairs and tinkering.

Keep in mind all Dashcams / devices are affected by extreme heat causing permanent damage over time. If the Dashcam reaches the internal high-temp limit of 75-80C too often it will reduce the lifespan of the device. Also note VIOFO has on going BUGs in their Firmware so we role-the-dice with each version. Experienced DVR users know this well and expect it, we all becoming BETA testers for device manufacturers. One last tip mentioned in my videos, if the Dash Cam works perfectly on cool days then fails on hot days consider the modifications in my Tips video. Improving air-flow and reducing Menu Setting Features will reduce generated heat, especially changing 60fps to 30fps, during the cooler season change back to 60fps. Hope this Helps someone, let me know... Subscribe to my YouTube Channel.
Browse all BCHobbyist WorkShop videos:
https://www.youtube.com/user/bchobbyist
Click to expand...
understood. I appreciate your advises and definitely will use them.
what about nothing on a camera screen at all and no lights on buttons? any magic tricks for that case?
 
borik said:
understood. I appreciate your advises and definitely will use them.
what about nothing on a camera screen at all and no lights on buttons? any magic tricks for that case?
Click to expand...
Maybe both caps are dead?
 
CaptureYourAction said:
I’ve also seen this happen when the camera didn’t like the memory card. Try powering without a card if you haven’t tried yet.
Click to expand...
I still hope to recover a camera. :)
 
borik said:
I still hope to recover a camera. :)
Click to expand...
Always Troubleshoot any device by removing all extra accessories. For A119/S remove memory card, remove GPS mount, then swap-out as many required parts as possible. Try different power sources, different USB cables, look close at side power socket for damage or loose jack on circuit board. Look inside for shorted wires or screw touching a contact. Bad capacitors will bulge slightly on top or even split and leak. Note if the capacitor wires are twisted or one leg broken. Check all internal ribbon cables for cuts, breaks or not seated fully.

Finally perform a dead Loader Flash
Gently push paperclip end into the Reset hole (marked with R) while 5 volt 1-3Amp power is connected to miniUSB side port (do not power from computer or power bank)
wait 10 seconds
disconnect power
insert memory card with A119S Loader LDA119S.BIN binary file saved to root of card
connect 5 volt power and notice if REC button starts to blink red, do nothing for 60 seconds
disconnect power
insert memory card with A119S Firmware FWA119S.BIN binary file saved to root of card
connect 5 volt power and notice if REC button starts to blink red, do nothing for 60 seconds
if lucky A119S should restart and work normally
 
BCHobbyist said:
Always Troubleshoot any device by removing all extra accessories. For A119/S remove memory card, remove GPS mount, then swap-out as many required parts as possible. Try different power sources, different USB cables, look close at side power socket for damage or loose jack on circuit board. Look inside for shorted wires or screw touching a contact. Bad capacitors will bulge slightly on top or even split and leak. Note if the capacitor wires are twisted or one leg broken. Check all internal ribbon cables for cuts, breaks or not seated fully.
Click to expand...
have you ever tried to connect a power to a camera board without lens ribbon cable connected? and / or without GPS cable connected? what would you see on a screen?
I see no lights on a REC button, but with the power connected through a multimeter I see 0.07A load with the card inside, and no load without it. could it be the capacitors or a shortage somewhere?
 
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borik said:
have you ever tried to connect a power to a camera board without lens ribbon cable connected? and / or without GPS cable connected? what would you see on a screen?
I see no lights on a REC button, but with the power connected through a multimeter I see 0.07A load with the card inside, and no load without it. could it be the capacitors or a shortage somewhere?
Click to expand...
Since your DVR is dead, I'd also disconnect the sensor ribbon cable and check for power drain changes, you won't damage anything for a short test. Look carefully at the outside edges of ribbon cable for cuts.
A common short location is the VIOFO home-made copper shield bent and soldered over chipset. The end near sensor ribbon should have Mylar & paper insulation under it, if it touches the tiny RTC battery or any component will short. The thin GPS Module ribbon cable isn't required when powered from side miniUSB port so good idea to remove it. Also check that the thin speaker wires didn't melt to the copper shield which acts as poor heat sink & but does reduce GPS interference.

Going back to the 1990's the industry was flooded with cheap flawed capacitors, today counterfeit capacitors are still produced still used by big brands. Based on the numerous A119/S BAD CAP reports I'd replace both with $1.25 Japan Caps. To replace the capacitors you must perform a full tear down to remove the circuit board. Care must be taken not to damage ribbon cable when unfolding the LCD screen from back of circuit board. Once you eliminate all easy to access possible power issues the circuit board becomes the focus. I expect to hear you successfully isolated and repaired the DVR, good luck. I'd perform the work for you but am located over the wall.
 
BCHobbyist said:
I expect to hear you successfully isolated and repaired the DVR, good luck.
Click to expand...
Thanks a lot for all your help, I'll keep playing with the camera and will use all your suggestions but in a worst case scenario I already have in mind a replacement for it - I feel myself half-naked with just one camera. :)
 
There is no need to remove the board to replace the caps. While it would obviously make it easier, I would avoid removing everything. There is always the risk of damaging something. Simply tilt the board up 90 degrees and use something to hold it there. Remove the old caps, cut the leads on the new caps to the appropriate length and solder in. Pay attention to polarity. Fold them down the same way the old ones were so everything will go back together as before.
 
CaptureYourAction said:
There is no need to remove the board to replace the caps. While it would obviously make it easier, I would avoid removing everything. There is always the risk of damaging something. Simply tilt the board up 90 degrees and use something to hold it there. Remove the old caps, cut the leads on the new caps to the appropriate length and solder in. Pay attention to polarity. Fold them down the same way the old ones were so everything will go back together as before.
Click to expand...
I already replaced the caps more then once and I had to remove the board, there is no way to do it without removing the board. both cams worked after caps replacement and the rear still works as of today. those minor things like re-flashing the firmware or re-plug the ribbon cable I don't even count, it's nothing.
 
borik said:
what exactly are these and where could I get them?
Click to expand...
The following tech detail is from one Electronics Hobbyist to another all others ignore thread ..

I only buy Capacitors made in Japan which are higher quality longer lasting. Check the nearest Electronics Parts Shop in your city and ask them if the caps are from Japan.
Specifically when I replace BAD CAPs on computer motherboards, LCD monitors, Smart LCD TVs, audio equipment and Dash Cams ...
I always use Audio/Video rated Japanese Panasonic Radial Electrolytic Capacitors (FM Series for longer life, higher temp, low ESR) they are usually black body with gold text and gold polarity band, they cost more but high quality.
A119S uses two nano Force F9A 2.7volt 3.3f (poor quality)
suggested replacement = two KamCap 3.3F 2.7V SuperCapacitor -or- Nichicon 3.3F 2.7V SuperCapacitor (-25C<->70C)
try to find them locally but always available on eBay or Amazon.
 
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