Amateur here. Could someone confirm both the ACC and BATT need wires to get camera to power up?

[Karagandinez]

I always connect the yellow wire from HK4 to the fuse responsible for the instrument panel. On it, the voltage does not sag when the engine is started.
I always connect the red wire from HK4 to the fuse responsible for the ignition switch. There is always tension on it.

 

[rcg530]

I always connect the yellow wire from HK4 to the fuse responsible for the instrument panel. On it, the voltage does not sag when the engine is started.
I always connect the red wire from HK4 to the fuse responsible for the ignition switch. There is always tension on it.

If I'm reading your post correctly, I believe you've listed the HK4 wire colors backwards in your statement. The HK4 red wire is for constant battery power and the yellow is for the switched/accessory power.

 

[Karagandinez]

If I'm reading your post correctly, I believe you've listed the HK4 wire colors backwards in your statement. The HK4 red wire is for constant battery power and the yellow is for the switched/accessory power.

View attachment 67187

I correctly wrote the color of the wires.
Power comes to the instrument panel after turning the ignition key to position 2 and does not sag when the engine starts.
The ignition switch receives constant power.

 

[rcg530]

I correctly wrote the color of the wires.
Power comes to the instrument panel after turning the ignition key to position 2 and does not sag when the engine starts.
The ignition switch receives constant power.

Okay. That's not how I read your post, so my mistake. The statement that a fuse is "responsible for the ignition switch" doesn't necessarily mean it's providing power to the ignition switch (at least to me). 🙂

 

[AustenKorowski]

After replacing the fuse tap, you turned on the ignition and tried it, right?

Can you try like this?

Absolutely. I might have tried that configuration but I will try it tonight. I can't remember but that position you want me to put the BATT in does not currently have a fuse in it stock, then do I need to put a fuse in the first slot of the tap and if so does it matter amp I use?

 

[ogzogz]

Absolutely. I might have tried that configuration but I will try it tonight. I can't remember but that position you want me to put the BATT in does not currently have a fuse in it stock, then do I need to put a fuse in the first slot of the tap and if so does it matter amp I use?

According to the image, the bottom part may be left blank. The 12v incoming side is available in the image. adjust the direction accordingly.

 

[LateralNW]

Alright guys. Looks like I need to purchase a voltmeter or test bulb. I have good connections on 2 new taps. This time both the BATT and ACC plugged in and still no power.

I've tried multiple fuse locations and tried flipping the taps (but keeping them the same as each other). The guy above mentioned his are facing opposite directions from each other. Could that actually be a solution to try in the meantime?

I'll find more patience to learn how the flow works over the weekend but I'm trying to do this last minute in the driveway at night.

I'm sure you have done this but check that the fuses are working and are seated correctly in the socket. Also check that the fuse taps have power at the end of the wire. A crude way to test it would be to tap the end of the wire to the body of the car. Yes this will blow the fuse but it will also tell you that the circuit is working. You should see a brief flash when you short the wire out. Of course make sure you have replacement fuses first.

Also:
Pull them out (the fuses) of the supplied socket and do a visual inspection and then swap a know good fuse with similar amperage rating and see if that device still works. Don't swap it for something that will draw lots of current eg Fan blower or rear demister.
Perhaps radio fuse might be a good test circuit to try.

If you have any 12 volt downlights lying around you could try connecting it to the fuse tap and see if it lights up. Only allow it a short moment when you do this to avoid fatiguing the fuse.

Cheers

 

[AustenKorowski]

Alright SOLUTION: I stopped by a car audio place and for $20 and 15 minutes he was able to diagnose it. The ground was rather pinched or not seated in a good place. When I was trying the 1 wire connection the other day I tried placing the ground between the bolt head and the plastic of the fuse box, then switched it to behind the plastic of the fuse box and against the metal bracket (still with the spade around the bolt). Evidently it did not like that and when he placed it back behind the bolt head it works now.