I have had similar problems with the F70/i1000 dashcam I installed in my father's car. Ferrite chokes did nothing for me as well. What helped most was wrapping electrical tape around the wire closest to the antenna. I also moved the cable as far away from the antenna as possible. Both had a positive effect, but nothing near as good as simply unplugging the cam completely. If the cam is unplugged, all the stations come in clear as a bell. As soon as the cam is running, there is static and popping, and it is better or worse depending on the strength of the radio signal from the tower.So - I tried the ferrite beads in various combinations. Almost no difference.
Three things helped (a bit):
1) I detached the aerial cable from it's run and pushed it further back into the car
2) I moved the power cable so it hung down from the roof rather than hidden in the headliner. This *really* helped on one or two frequencies. This was running right next to the rear camera cable. A bit of tweaking and I was able to get the cables to share the run on that frequency.
3) I also changed where the rear camera cable emerged onto the windscreen - that seemed to help.
Basically - each adjustment I make that improves one station will worsen another. I've got it to a good midpoint so I can live with it now.
Great news!!So - quick radio interference update.
It was primarily: the power supply.
I put in the new parking guard kit removing the old power supply. Most stations were now clear as a bell where they weren't previously.
The old power kit had the converter right up in the headliner where the rear camera cable was also running. So I'm thinking this was a case of two stage interference. 1) The power cable interfered on the rear cable which, in turn 2) interfered with the aerial cable running down the other side of the car.