Connecting to overhead console power

[pacemaker10000]

I’ve previously installed all my cams to the fuse box. However I’ve noticed that FitcamX do an install using existing wiring in the overhead console so considering the same but with a better quality camera.
Their kit comes with a cable splitter for ease of install but I will just tee across the wires. There are three, ignition live (14v) which goes after a few minutes, permanent live (13v) and earth. Don’t like the lower voltage of permanent live so may just use ignition one.
So here’s my questions.
Would I need to use an inline fuse?
What purpose does the black box do in hard wiring, and do I need it if I’m off an ignition live which switches itself off anyway?

I’m thinking of installing a 12v cigarette lighter female and plugging in factory lead so will benefit from an additional fuse?
Or as above but with a cheap 12v to usb plug and shirt usb to usb c cable to cut down on wiring?

Thoughts or alternatives welcome

Thanks

 

[Dashmellow]

What purpose does the black box do in hard wiring, and do I need it if I’m off an ignition live which switches itself off anyway?

If I understand your question correctly, the inline black box on the hard-wiring kit converts your car's 12 Volts down to 5 Volts (regulated) which is the voltage that most dash cams operate on. If you connect your dash camera directly to 12V you will fry the circuitry. The black box on the hard wiring kit is not a switch.

 

[pacemaker10000]

If I understand your question correctly, the inline black box on the hard-wiring kit converts your car's 12 Volts down to 5 Volts (regulated) which is the voltage that most dash cams operate on. If you connect your dash camera directly to 12V you will fry the circuitry. The black box on the hard wiring kit is not a switch.

Doh! ‍‍
Have to hand back my engineering certificate…lol

 

[ChristianCammr]

I’ve previously installed all my cams to the fuse box. However I’ve noticed that FitcamX do an install using existing wiring in the overhead console so considering the same but with a better quality camera.
Their kit comes with a cable splitter for ease of install but I will just tee across the wires. There are three, ignition live (14v) which goes after a few minutes, permanent live (13v) and earth. Don’t like the lower voltage of permanent live so may just use ignition one.
So here’s my questions.
Would I need to use an inline fuse?
What purpose does the black box do in hard wiring, and do I need it if I’m off an ignition live which switches itself off anyway?

I’m thinking of installing a 12v cigarette lighter female and plugging in factory lead so will benefit from an additional fuse?
Or as above but with a cheap 12v to usb plug and shirt usb to usb c cable to cut down on wiring?

Thoughts or alternatives welcome
신용카드 현금화
Thanks

I tried tapping into the wiring harness for the compass and also the lights to give the radar detector power... which did not work... and on top of that I managed to screw up the compass, which now has no pwer...along with the red lights in the rear view mirror.

I have hard wired my radar detectors in ever car I have ever owned... and never problems like this... Usually it is painless. All of my previous vehicles have been American, which makes me wonder if the T-Reg uses power in a different wat than an American car.

I really would like to get the lights and Compass working again.. Anyone know what could've happened???

I didn't cut hrough any wires... I just simply stretched the insulation away in the middle of the wire and expse some of the copper to tap into it...

 

[Dashmellow]

I really would like to get the lights and Compass working again.. Anyone know what could've happened???

When the compass/thermometer in my Tacoma pick-up stopped working it turned out to be two blown surface mount resistors. It seems this is a fairly common problem with these particular compasses. Toyota is well aware of this problem but they won't do anything other than offer to sell you an egregiously overpriced replacement compass.

Eventually, I was able to find the rated values for the resistors I needed and was able to achieve a repair by soldering in two standard resistors and bypassing (removing) the old surface mounted ones on the circuit board.

I don't know if anything like this happened to your compass but if it is not a hard wiring problem you may need to explore whether it is an electronic one and see if it can be fixed. Not sure what happened to your lights but if they are LEDs you may have caused a similar issue.