Hardwiring an unusual kit using an inline 2A cartridge fuse and a single 15A end fuse?

[Cloudy]

My situation is similar to this older post but my hardwire kit has been updated. It includes an inline 2-amp cartridge fuse and a single, inbuilt two-pronged blue fuse (which I believe is 15 amp).

The wonderful Alex made a video on this type of kit but he suggested that if there isn't a spare slot in the fuse box, you should cut and replace the single blue end fuse with a fuse tap.

I contacted the manufacturer, and they said I don't need to do this because the 2A inline fuse and inbuilt blue fuse handles it.

Since I don't have a spare slot, my initial thought was to replace an existing, non-critical 15A fuse with the kit's end fuse. The kit's blue fuse would take care of the vehicle's existing electrical component of that slot, and the inline 2A fuse would protect the dash cam. Now I'm unsure if this is the right approach.

Thoughts?


I wtr

 

[Nigel]

Since I don't have a spare slot, my initial thought was to replace an existing, non-critical 15A fuse with the kit's end fuse. The kit's blue fuse would take care of the vehicle's existing electrical component of that slot, and the inline 2A fuse would protect the dash cam. Now I'm unsure if this is the right approach.

That seems correct. You should only replace a 15A fuse though, don't replace a 10A by a 15A or you may damage something, and if you replace a 20A with your 15A then your 15A will probably blow at some point when it is least convenient.

If you need to put it in a 10A fuse slot then you need to cut off and replace the 15A fuse, and a fuse tap is a good way to do that.

 

[Cloudy]

Thanks Nigel.

That seems correct.

Thanks Nigel.

A small further question, I've noticed that when testing fuse ACC slots with a multimeter, they do have the expected 12v current when the key is on. When I turn the key off, it drops to a residual 3v. I've waited up to 10 minutes.

Do you think this normal or is my multimeter dodgy?

 

[Cloudy]

I am expecting zero volts when key is turned off.

 

[Cloudy]

Ok. So I waited 20 minutes and eventually the 3v was cut to zero. I understand this delay is common so all good.

Another question, on ACC wire placement, I realise I have "ignition" fuses. These do have the power cut completely when the key is off. I'm guessing I shouldn't use these as all tutorials don't mention this and to only use ACC fuse slots. But then again, they say the ACC fuse should cut down to zero volts immediately when the key is turned.

Should I use the ACC slot that has a delay or IGNITION slot?

 

[Nigel]

Do you think this normal or is my multimeter dodgy?

Probably the operator rather than the multimeter!

Most likely cause is that you are using a different earth to whatever switches them, although 3V is rather high for that.

I wouldn't worry about it, with a camera attached, the 3V will probably drop to more like 0.3V. They will be switched electronically, sort of into standby mode, then after 20 minutes they are turned off properly using a relay.

Should I use the ACC slot that has a delay or IGNITION slot?

You can use any you want, I have mine connected to an engine fuse, mainly because that stays on for 4 minutes after turning the ignition off, for the emissions control to operate. The 4 minutes means I can stop the engine at lights, but the camera carries on, also covers fuel stops etc.

For the fuses that do not turn off to 0.0V, don't use them for anything powerful, like a dashcam battery pack, but they are fine for a dashcam.