Longer USB Charging cable for A119

Its called a ferrite bead. In some cables they can be unclipped but the monoprice cable has it moulded on.

If its moulded over the wire then you can dremel it off. If its not then you need some heatshrink.
 
mazinger said:
Just found the cable in Amazon. Quick question, can the big plastic piece (Ferrite core) behind the micro-usb cable end remove? Is this piece mandatory?
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A ferrite bead is not a requirement but unfortunately it is molded into this cable and cannot be removed.
 
Buy two cables (since its cheap) and crack the casing open in one.

The bead should be molded over the wire, so the actual wire itself is intact and the bead just sits around it.

In the past i was able to crack the casing and slide the bead further down the line or dremel it off.
 
I prefer the monoprice cable because I can get it from Amazon fast. No way for ebay, it took forever to arrive.

I am still waiting my cigarette socket that I purchased from ebay since February.
 
mazinger said:
I prefer the monoprice cable because I can get it from Amazon fast. No way for ebay, it took forever to arrive.

I am still waiting my cigarette socket that I purchased from ebay since February.
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Depends on the seller, of course, but I understand.

I like @flip9's suggestion. It's a bit of work but doable. Actually, if it were me I might try a stationary belt sander that I have that is often great for projects like that.
 
The actual ferrite core under the plastic casing is frangible (will crack to pieces when squeezed) ;) Get past the plastic and set vice-grips or channel-lock pliers so that when they close, the jaws are somewhat smaller than the ferrite, then squeeze. Can also be done slowly closing a bench vice. Use just enough force to break it then stop and the cable won't be hurt. Can also be done with a hammer on a a hard surface with well-controlled blows.

I've never had a problem but if you use my method, you're on you're own since I can't control what you do and how you do it :rolleyes:

Phil
 
SawMaster said:
The actual ferrite core under the plastic casing is frangible (will crack to pieces when squeezed) ;) Get past the plastic and set vice-grips or channel-lock pliers so that when they close, the jaws are somewhat smaller than the ferrite, then squeeze. Can also be done slowly closing a bench vice. Use just enough force to break it then stop and the cable won't be hurt. Can also be done with a hammer on a a hard surface with well-controlled blows.

I've never had a problem but if you use my method, you're on you're own since I can't control what you do and how you do it :rolleyes:

Phil
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This might be a good way to get the core off. Maybe even score both sides of the ferrite bead with a hacksaw and then apply force so that it breaks apart on the score marks.

Be sure to wear eye protection if you go this route! ;)
 
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I just got done installing a rear A119 last week, I purchased a two pack of the 15ft usb "cable matters" brand from amazon @ https://www.amazon.com/gp/B007NLSGOQ
I have had good luck with this brand in the past.

It has no ferrite core, so hiding the wire was easy. Also everything is gold plated for extra conductivity!

I did add a ferrite core (snap on type) to my bundle of power supply wire under the dash. This covers all 3 of my cams (front, rear, interior)

So far I've had zero issues powering my A119 using this cable. Also note: I did not use the included USB charger that came with the A119... for some reason it doesn't work properly... instead I am using this charger... it powers all 3 of my cams no problem. https://www.amazon.com/gp/B00PRB1J48
 
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ElectricalFluke said:
I just got done installing a rear A119 last week, I purchased a two pack of the 15ft usb "cable matters" brand from amazon @ https://www.amazon.com/gp/B007NLSGOQ
I have had good luck with this brand in the past.

It has no ferrite core, so hiding the wire was easy. Also everything is gold plated for extra conductivity!

I did add a ferrite core (snap on type) to my bundle of power supply wire under the dash. This covers all 3 of my cams (front, rear, interior)

So far I've had zero issues powering my A119 using this cable. Also note: I did not use the included USB charger that came with the A119... for some reason it doesn't work properly... instead I am using this charger... it powers all 3 of my cams no problem. https://www.amazon.com/gp/B00PRB1J48
Click to expand...

The higher amperage USB charger is a good idea. The two dual port ones I use are similar. @mazinger might benefit from trying something like that with the cable he's currently using now and see if it helps cure the screen flickering problem.
 
DashCammed said:
Is there a 15ft 24AWG USB cable that does not have a ferrite core on it that someone can recommend?
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Not sure but check Monoprice periodically or drop them an email query. The used to have both as I recall but it wasn't there last I looked.
 
DashCammed said:
Is there a 15ft 24AWG USB cable that does not have a ferrite core on it that someone can recommend?
Click to expand...

That ferrite choke on this cable can be rather easily removed. Split it off gently with a chisel, hatchet, or similar tool being careful of the cable underneath.

Phil
 
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