Looking for 2 cameras (front, rear) with capacitors
- Thread starter Ryan1999
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your challenge might be determining what viewing angle you want, none have 140° but some are advertised as such
kamkar
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The field of view claimed on many cameras are often grossly over the actual number, one trick to get a large number with out actually lying is quoting the diagonal FOV where we are interested in the horizontal FOV
For the most the cameras are 130 - 140 degrees FOV.
For the most the cameras are 130 - 140 degrees FOV.
kamkar
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My upload of a few near misses today ( language )
Filmed with my SG9663DC that are a camera like the viofo models that mount very near to the windscreen, and as you can see i still have the bottom of my A pillars in the footage, so i am not interested in wider footage as it will just have more A pillar in view.
Granted my little Suzuki car are narrow too even for a Euro / Jap car, but even with a nice old American boat sized car i would not go for a wider FOV
As a addict i also have side cameras so i pretty much drive in a 360 video bubble, so there will be no sneaking up on me, or wiping blame off on me for anything.
BUT ! side cameras are for addicts, or very paranoid people, for liability purpose a front & rear camera should be fine, it will always document what you do, and if you drive nice you should be good.
Filmed with my SG9663DC that are a camera like the viofo models that mount very near to the windscreen, and as you can see i still have the bottom of my A pillars in the footage, so i am not interested in wider footage as it will just have more A pillar in view.
Granted my little Suzuki car are narrow too even for a Euro / Jap car, but even with a nice old American boat sized car i would not go for a wider FOV
As a addict i also have side cameras so i pretty much drive in a 360 video bubble, so there will be no sneaking up on me, or wiping blame off on me for anything.
BUT ! side cameras are for addicts, or very paranoid people, for liability purpose a front & rear camera should be fine, it will always document what you do, and if you drive nice you should be good.
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no camera has 170° lenses, advertising fluff unfortunately, even the ones that claim 140° are generally all 120° or less
what's your thinking on wanting such a wide angle lens?
kamkar
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You also have to factor in, the wider FOV the lens have the nearer and smaller are the distance where you actually stand a chance of capturing a plate.
With the large easy to read plates in the EU, a car only have to be 4 - 5 car lengths ahead of you and then you can not read the plate even if both cars are stopped and lighting are perfect.
It is a unfortunate side effect of wide angle lenses that they make things appear further away than they actually are.
To have a natural feeling for distance in the footage you will have to use a 6 - 12 mm lens, but then you have a terrible narrow FOV, so a camera like that can not be used alone.
Myself i run a 12 MM "zoom" camera beside my front camera, this mean that further out ahead where i can no longer read plates on my SG9663DC i can read them on my zoom camera instead.
Again it is mostly a thing for us dashcam addicts.
In the video from my 12 mm lens camera i can read plates about a car length further out than my tired old eyes can, so it is a little supernatural.
But you can see the difference here between my zoom camera and a regular wide angle camera.
The 2 videos mixed together are only cut in hight, the width are the normal the 2 lenses have.
With the large easy to read plates in the EU, a car only have to be 4 - 5 car lengths ahead of you and then you can not read the plate even if both cars are stopped and lighting are perfect.
It is a unfortunate side effect of wide angle lenses that they make things appear further away than they actually are.
To have a natural feeling for distance in the footage you will have to use a 6 - 12 mm lens, but then you have a terrible narrow FOV, so a camera like that can not be used alone.
Myself i run a 12 MM "zoom" camera beside my front camera, this mean that further out ahead where i can no longer read plates on my SG9663DC i can read them on my zoom camera instead.
Again it is mostly a thing for us dashcam addicts.
In the video from my 12 mm lens camera i can read plates about a car length further out than my tired old eyes can, so it is a little supernatural.
But you can see the difference here between my zoom camera and a regular wide angle camera.
The 2 videos mixed together are only cut in hight, the width are the normal the 2 lenses have.
smithdean
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The combo or duo cams are too much trouble to install? I have 2020 Santa Fe. Or I should buy separate front and rear. I am looking to hardwire to hide the cables so they dont look bad. I am going to bestbuy for installation cos I am clueless about anything that is DIY.
kamkar
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No they are easy, they just have the 1 more wire that connect the rear camera.
There are quite a few videos / tutorials on youtube about how to install a dashcam, it can often be a tool less operation where you just tuck in the wires to get them out of sight.
The hardest part is if you want to use parking guard, cuz then you will need a hard wire kit that tap into the cars fuse box, but if not you just need to route the power wire that tab into the dashboard lighter to the camera ( which do mean on your dash or console you will have some wire draped across it )
There are quite a few videos / tutorials on youtube about how to install a dashcam, it can often be a tool less operation where you just tuck in the wires to get them out of sight.
The hardest part is if you want to use parking guard, cuz then you will need a hard wire kit that tap into the cars fuse box, but if not you just need to route the power wire that tab into the dashboard lighter to the camera ( which do mean on your dash or console you will have some wire draped across it )
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@Whotony
The A129 Duo front unit will have one power cable and one rear cam cable going to it. The rear cam has nothing else, just that one cable. The power cable will run to either a cigarette lighter plug or a hardwire kit (HWK). The HWK will tap into two fuses and a grounding point at your car's fusebox. This is normally done with an 'add-a-fuse' device which plugs in where the fuse is located, replacing it. The original fuse has a place to re-install it. You will need to know which type of fuse your car uses (there are a few different kinds) in order to get the correct 'add-a-fuse'; this should be found in the owner's manyal or your dealer can tell you. IIRC the cam ships with these so find out before ordering even if you go with a Pro install so you'll have the correct parts on hand.
DIY is fairly easy. The two usual problems are routing the cables so that they do not interfere with airbags, and finding the correct fuses to tap into. The latter requires thatyou have either a test light or voltmeter (DMM). Either is cheap to buy. Many cars now have computer-control power schemes so selecting the correct fuses is usually where the DIY headaches are found. Not hard to do but your first or second choice of fuse may not work as required but normally something will. We can give you advice on the best choices to try if you decide to try the DIY approach. Your dealer's service department can also help you with this selection. Also be aware that with some cars, the fusebox cover cannot be replaced over the 'add-a-fuse' but this is usually not a real problem though it may leave the fuses visible instead of nicely covered.
If you get a Pro install this is about a 30 ro 45 minute job; anythinbg over an hour should be questioned and explained. When done you should only see a bit of cabling where they emerge to the cams, any wire connections should be nicely crimped, and any excess cable should be coiled away where it can't be snagged by a stray foot at the fusebox. The cams should appear straight and be located where they can be removed ftom the mounts for glass-cleaning, and where possible you should also be able to remove and install the SD card without removing the cam. It should not obscure any important part of the driver's vision, and toy should also be able to see the 'recording' LED indicator from the driver's seat to know it's working. It is acceptable to need to move your head a bit to see this, but you shouldn't need to be a contortionist. The cam can be mounted where the LED indicator can't be seen but this risks you not being aware of any malfunctions until you need the footage and discover the cam wasn't working. Some cams have audible 'beeps' or a voice to let you know their status but I think a visual indicator is easier to monitor as you drive as no loud noises can mask the voice or 'beeps' leaving you unaware of a problem.
The cam lens should be aimed where the sky above the horizon is no more than 40%- 50% of the view. You also need a proper SD card- not just any card will work with dashcams as these are write-intensive devices transferring high data rates to the card. Members on your cam's forum here can make recommendations based on their experiences.. They can also help with settings and feature use such as parking modes and g-sensor settings so that you can tune the cam to give it;s best performance for your specific needs. The A129 Duo is IMHO one of the best choices for a 2-channel cam at this time with few issues, very good vid qual;ity, good reliability, and good factory support. I think you'll like it whether you DIY or get a Pro install.
Phil
The A129 Duo front unit will have one power cable and one rear cam cable going to it. The rear cam has nothing else, just that one cable. The power cable will run to either a cigarette lighter plug or a hardwire kit (HWK). The HWK will tap into two fuses and a grounding point at your car's fusebox. This is normally done with an 'add-a-fuse' device which plugs in where the fuse is located, replacing it. The original fuse has a place to re-install it. You will need to know which type of fuse your car uses (there are a few different kinds) in order to get the correct 'add-a-fuse'; this should be found in the owner's manyal or your dealer can tell you. IIRC the cam ships with these so find out before ordering even if you go with a Pro install so you'll have the correct parts on hand.
DIY is fairly easy. The two usual problems are routing the cables so that they do not interfere with airbags, and finding the correct fuses to tap into. The latter requires thatyou have either a test light or voltmeter (DMM). Either is cheap to buy. Many cars now have computer-control power schemes so selecting the correct fuses is usually where the DIY headaches are found. Not hard to do but your first or second choice of fuse may not work as required but normally something will. We can give you advice on the best choices to try if you decide to try the DIY approach. Your dealer's service department can also help you with this selection. Also be aware that with some cars, the fusebox cover cannot be replaced over the 'add-a-fuse' but this is usually not a real problem though it may leave the fuses visible instead of nicely covered.
If you get a Pro install this is about a 30 ro 45 minute job; anythinbg over an hour should be questioned and explained. When done you should only see a bit of cabling where they emerge to the cams, any wire connections should be nicely crimped, and any excess cable should be coiled away where it can't be snagged by a stray foot at the fusebox. The cams should appear straight and be located where they can be removed ftom the mounts for glass-cleaning, and where possible you should also be able to remove and install the SD card without removing the cam. It should not obscure any important part of the driver's vision, and toy should also be able to see the 'recording' LED indicator from the driver's seat to know it's working. It is acceptable to need to move your head a bit to see this, but you shouldn't need to be a contortionist. The cam can be mounted where the LED indicator can't be seen but this risks you not being aware of any malfunctions until you need the footage and discover the cam wasn't working. Some cams have audible 'beeps' or a voice to let you know their status but I think a visual indicator is easier to monitor as you drive as no loud noises can mask the voice or 'beeps' leaving you unaware of a problem.
The cam lens should be aimed where the sky above the horizon is no more than 40%- 50% of the view. You also need a proper SD card- not just any card will work with dashcams as these are write-intensive devices transferring high data rates to the card. Members on your cam's forum here can make recommendations based on their experiences.. They can also help with settings and feature use such as parking modes and g-sensor settings so that you can tune the cam to give it;s best performance for your specific needs. The A129 Duo is IMHO one of the best choices for a 2-channel cam at this time with few issues, very good vid qual;ity, good reliability, and good factory support. I think you'll like it whether you DIY or get a Pro install.
Phil
