Lola
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 16, 2016
- Messages
- 1,111
- Reaction score
- 617
- Location
- Maryland
- Country
- United States
- Dash Cam
- Mobius, A119
@country_hick Thanks for posting the link to the timer/relay, did you install this in your vehicle ?
I only found those products within the last 3 days. The time delay relay is available allowing you to set the desired time in seconds or minutes but not (that I could find) for hours. I was looking for a solution to record for 1/2 hour or so after shutting the key off. The time delay relay looks like the simplest solution. I am strongly considering installing 4 dash cams. Having an extended recording time available after shutting down the engine is a necessary part of this setup. For my purposes I want to ensure that the micro-sd card is not overwritten accidentally when recording after the engine shuts off. I know, a larger (more expensive) card records longer but I am not quite ready to spend that much more money for a larger card just yet. In time prices will drop and a larger card will be the better option.@country_hick Thanks for posting the link to the timer/relay, did you install this in your vehicle ?
Hello,
Dashcam has been working until I decided to add the 6inch lens extension to the camera. Following this the camera doesn't record and isn't recognized by my computer and just lights up green - it doesn't respond to switching modes, with or without an SD card in.
I have tried resetting and checked inside to see if the cable was sat correctly.
Does anyone have any tips for what I may have done wrong?
Thanks.
I only found those products within the last 3 days. The time delay relay is available allowing you to set the desired time in seconds or minutes but not (that I could find) for hours. I was looking for a solution to record for 1/2 hour or so after shutting the key off. The time delay relay looks like the simplest solution. I am strongly considering installing 4 dash cams. Having an extended recording time available after shutting down the engine is a necessary part of this setup. For my purposes I want to ensure that the micro-sd card is not overwritten accidentally when recording after the engine shuts off. I know, a larger (more expensive) card records longer but I am not quite ready to spend that much more money for a larger card just yet. In time prices will drop and a larger card will be the better option.
Downside is that the noisy converter I use interferes with my DAB and GPS signals, but a bit of rummaging around seems to fix that. Wondering if I should switch to a linear converter instead, but concerned about the heat output.
You have to be careful with some of the 12V to 5V converters on the market. Some of them have poor regulation that can cause voltage spikes which have the nasty habit of frying cameras. (Mobius has built-in protection fortunately.)
Your noise issue with DAB and GPS "may" be a sign of a bad converter so you may want to keep an eye on it or look for a higher quality converter. Often the cheap, crappy converters look identical to the better ones.
You're absolutely right. However, I'm not sure if there are any switching DC/DC converters out there, however good quality, that don't create noise. Doesn't take away from the danger of frying my cam though.
Any recommendations? I was hoping to spend less than £10 really, given how cheap even the high quality components are on places like Farnell etc.
@SawMaster
Re cable shortening - I understand what you're saying, but I don't think I'm comfortable shortening the USB cable. I'm not sure if I will be able to join the shielding correctly. The pigtail for the input I have no problems with.
I wonder if it is possible to open the case of the converter unit and shorten the USB cable directly at the PCB? Perhaps that way you could avoid violating the shielding? Maybe @jokiin knows?
that would be the way I would look at doing it
sealed but it's an ultrasonic weld, not too hard to crack open without doing any damage
Was hoping to hear you say screws but that still works.
Some ultrasonically welded seams are a real bear to open though. A good weld can make it like there was never any seam there in the first place.
I haven't cracked one open for a long time but I don't recall it being too difficult to do
If you are going to go through the trouble of DIYing then I recommend just getting a quality DC-DC converter such as this one with wide input voltage (7-36V) and 1.5 A output current @5V for< $5 USD:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/580-OKI78SR51.5W36HC
Mount this close to the camera and there will be no voltage drop. That is how I have been powering all my cameras in both my cars, all hard wired to the fuse box. Been running for years no power issues. Obviously soldering is required with this approach but it's a skill that is very useful.
Buying cheap cigarette plug style DC-DC converters is a gamble, you don't know what quality components they have in there. Probably you get what you pay for.