My install - Hardwire into a Honda CR-V

Dear GWN21, thanks for your posting, from the photo of the hardwire, can you indicate which # of fuse you plug in ? Thanks.
 
Dear GWN21, thanks for your posting, from the photo of the hardwire, can you indicate which # of fuse you plug in ?

GWN21 is off-line since Sep 21, 2015. In my European CR-V MK4 I used #28 for ACC and #45 for constant power. In #28 power appears after engine starts.
 
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FYI, I just installed a new SG9663DCPRO with rear camera into my 2016 Honda CR-V EX. This post helped a lot. Before starting I bought some plastic trim removal tools which made it much easier to remove the interior trim panels.

I had to use the thicker mounting base for the front camera to allow the CPL filter to clear the windshield. I started out with the thin mounting base, found out the camera/CPL wouldn't fit, then used the white string that came with the camera to remove the thin base from the glass (it worked well).

I also bought the SG9663DC 6.5 Meter Rear Camera Cable because I needed right-angle plugs on both ends and the 'stock' 6 m cable had a straight-in plug on the rear-camera-end of the cable. Using this plug forces the camera to mount about 3 inches down the rear window from the top surrounding trim, too far for me. With the right angle plug the camera is about 1 inch from the top trim - much better. Because of the right angle plug I couldn't route the cable inside the waterproof rubber wiring tube that runs from the rear doorframe to the tailgate so I ran it through the same holes the wiring uses and ran the cable alongside the rubber wiring tube.

For the hardwire kit I used fuse 14 (Seat Heaters) for Battery (yellow wire, unswitched) and fuse 19 (ACC) for Accessory (red wire, switched). My fusebox uses Mini ATO Low Profile fuses so that's what I requested when I ordered my hardwire kit. However, the kit also came with leads for Mini ATO fuses. This worked out well because fuse 19 is positioned next to a raised section of the fusebox, so I used the lead for Mini ATO on fuse 19 to clear the raised section and the lead for Mini ATO Low Profile on fuse 14. With this wiring the camera operates correctly and Parking Mode works fine for me.

Update 3Aug20: Sometimes the parking mode records only 12 or 14 minutes, but I have it set for 30 minutes. I checked the voltage on fuse 14 and found it to be 12.4 V, whereas the voltage at the battery is 12.7 V. I don't know why the fuses don't have 12.7 V, but all my unswitched/hot fuses read 12.4 V. I have the hardwire low-voltage-cutoff set at 12.2 V. Today I took a 25 minute highway-speed drive, did some shopping, then drove home 25 minutes on the highway. Both times the parking mode recorded for 28 minutes. I know we haven't been driving as much as we used to due to the pandemic. I conclude that the low-voltage-cutoff is turning off the camera when it gets to 12.2V. This might happen after only 12 minutes for a short run to the local store, but my relatively small 6 month old battery would be more charged after a 25 minute highway drive so it could record longer (28 minutes).
 
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Update 7Jan21 -For some unknown reason, a few nights ago the camera recorded real-time video all night long. There was no indication of a G-impact which would have created a write-protected folder with photos and would have turned on the camera. After posting my issue here, @jokiin recommended moving the Battery (yellow wire, unswitched) from fuse 14 (seat heaters) to fuse 41 (door locks). Since the CR-V uses a CAN-BUS computer network it’s possible the computer was interfering with the dash cam on fuse 14. Since making this change I've driven it several times and everything seems to be working fine. The parking mode records time-lapse for 30 minutes as I have it set and there have been no overnight-video-recording events.
 

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  • Installation of SG9663DCPRO, 2016 Honda CR-V.pdf
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