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The problem is not anymore the car fuse etc, i think now it is the camera or software
My fuses are connected to empty slots I Did not want to touch any existing.

my problem now is like in the first post.

after parking surveillance no recording...
 
The problem is not anymore the car fuse etc, i think now it is the camera or software
My fuses are connected to empty slots I Did not want to touch any existing.

my problem now is like in the first post.

after parking surveillance no recording...

If it's not entering parking mode with the hardwire kit, the problem is:

1. You didn't properly crimp the fuse taps.
2. The fuses you are using are not proper fuses (most likely). Even if they are empty.
3. FUSE TAPS REQUIRE 2 FUSES TO COMPLETE CIRCUIT. Closest fuse to the fuse box is the "original fuse" and the top fuse is the fuse protecting the camera.
 
If it's not entering parking mode with the hardwire kit, the problem is:

1. You didn't properly crimp the fuse taps.
2. The fuses you are using are not proper fuses (most likely). Even if they are empty.
3. FUSE TAPS REQUIRE 2 FUSES TO COMPLETE CIRCUIT. Closest fuse to the fuse box is the "original fuse" and the top fuse is the fuse protecting the camera.
I am using the fuses eveyone use in my car, after changing cables, i get the proper measures,
It is like the first post, the camera says it is entering in Parking, it has live power but nothing is detected when hitting or moving the car... did (No have any battery)
Maybe i can try the downgrade
 
I am using the fuses eveyone use in my car, after changing cables, i get the proper measures,
It is like the first post, the camera says it is entering in Parking, it has live power but nothing is detected when hitting or moving the car... did (No have any battery)
Maybe i can try the downgrade

I think there's a bit of a language barrier here, and I don't speak Dutch.

1. Take a picture of your fuse taps. Do you have TWO FUSES in the fuse taps?

2. Please tell us your year, make, and model vehicle.

Otherwise, I think our efforts to assist you are going to be in vain and without the results you are seeking.
 
mm why i should have two fuses on the tap when the original is empty? Only the top giving power is the one needed for the dashcam i am wrong? Maybe what i read is also wrong here in the forum: :(

You will need your 3A fuse in the top, going to the camera. Leave the bottom empty, and remember the tap will then only work one way around.

Sorry thanks, i am not dutch or belgian just living there, is the same Everyone is having here, they recommend to reset the camera

 
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With the usual "add-a-fuse" type fuse taps the power goes from fusebox to one end of both fuses. With the car fuse inserted, both ends of the cam fuse will have power whichever way the fuse tap is inserted since it will have power going through it. Without the car fuse installed there may be no power to the cam fuse.

You can either put a fuse in the car fuse slot on the fuse tap OR turn the fuse tap 180 degrees to swap ends so that it now connects to the power side of the fusebox.

Phil
 
With the usual "add-a-fuse" type fuse taps the power goes from fusebox to one end of both fuses. With the car fuse inserted, both ends of the cam fuse will have power whichever way the fuse tap is inserted since it will have power going through it. Without the car fuse installed there may be no power to the cam fuse.

You can either put a fuse in the car fuse slot on the fuse tap OR turn the fuse tap 180 degrees to swap ends so that it now connects to the power side of the fusebox.

Phil

I am not sure that'll work, but I could be wrong. I believe these add a fuse taps require 2 fuses to complete the circuit. And that the fuses having "polarity" is a misnomer?
 
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