Not a Happy Camper with the A139

@HonestReview I think "new cable" in general is the problem. (again, nothing to do whether one of the ends is angled or not) When you check Viofo's website or Aliexpress they still don't offer the new cable... That's why I advised you to ask for the old design of the cable to test it out.

Could you take some detailed pictures of the connectors? (covering outside as well as the inside)
 
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Hi guys,
Just a quick observation re; the "loose/sensitive connections"...

The cause may simply be a cold ie; DRY solder joint on the main PCB or a broken track on the PCB, resulting in the intermittent drop outs etc..

Changing cables & plugs would not rectify the problem.

Send it back maybe......& ask them to thoroughly examine it?
 
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@Michael23 Sure thing, could be the case as well. But two main units in a row, probably not manufactured in a single batch (since the replacement was sent about month after the first unit), both for a single user, without any previous reports of a similar issue from others? (I mean reports of disconnections where cable replacement didn't help).

Not to mention, it's two production units vs. "experimental" cables...
 
I can't recall what's inside but I had mine apart so it should be possible to inspect the coax socket soldering, and any skilled technician could flux and re-heat those solder joints to see if it helps. Of course this shouldn't be necessary but it might help pinpoint the problem so that Viofo can prevent a future recurrence.

But I'm still of the mind that this is the plug/socket interface being out-of-spec as it is far more likely to happen and normal QC checks would not necessarily catch it, whereas bad solder joints are sought for in the QC process and are usually found before shipping.

Phil
 
I can't recall what's inside but I had mine apart so it should be possible to inspect the coax socket soldering, and any skilled technician could flux and re-heat those solder joints to see if it helps. Of course this shouldn't be necessary but it might help pinpoint the problem so that Viofo can prevent a future recurrence.
agree, but this is something that should be left for Viofo to inspect when they get them back, nothing worse than wanting to analyze something when it comes back to find out what went wrong only to find out that someone has already had a go at it and removed the possibility of working it out
 
tried 3 channel parking mode again yesterday, this time i only got shy of 4 hours.
Clearly there is some bug cuz as i recall i have managed to get a full 6 hours or parking mode once.

On my next trive i will put the parking mode timer back to the normal 1 hour, and then revisit if / when viofo make some changes in this regard.
 
@Michael23 Sure thing, could be the case as well. But two main units in a row, probably not manufactured in a single batch (since the replacement was sent about month after the first unit), both for a single user, without any previous reports of a similar issue from others? (I mean reports of disconnections where cable replacement didn't help).

Not to mention, it's two production units vs. "experimental" cables...

Well the first unit only did 2 Channel on firmware 1.1 for most part. Unless I wiggled hell out of cables and then obviously it went to 2 channel at some point. I could wiggle cables on 1.2 and at some point again itd go to 2 channel but not nearly like what's happening now. A light tap.

Second camera, no idea about overheating yet. But the cable issue for the 2nd camera isn't a problem on first. This is a new problem. Not sue what's going on here.

Will get a picture asap. Been away just got back.

General Note: While cables are touchy, they at least didn't drop on entire drive of 800 KM (including bumpy roads, speed bump, etc). Although, as stated above, with a slight sneeze being able to knock camera out of 3 channel, I am still not trusting this setup. As I cannot say if camera will through a fit if cables move slightly over time etc. And with the results from my video, it seems likely that what's going on shouldn't be trusted even if so far my results with driving haven't generated an adverse reaction with the new camera + old cables.

 
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@Nath

So I made a bit of an observation today. The connection issue appears to be situational / position based. I've played with this cables more than I would have liked. And yes the cables have been in firmly each time. But however the cables got placed back in this time, the touchiness doesn't seem to be present.

My theory is that the mmcx terminals between the two cameras might be a very slightly different spec (maybe supplier change?), since the old cables work fine with old camera. But the same old cables (and new 6m), to appear to be far more sensitive with the new camera. In that if the connection isn't "perfect" slight vibrations can cause channel drops.

But that in their current position, however I managed to get them into this position,, the connection this millionth time around, the cables seem to be perfectly situated and not "TAPPING" sensitive on new camera.

Here's the images @Nath Requested.
Sorry about the dog hair!
 

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VIDEO OF CABLE REMOVAL on NEW CAMERA (Cables Don't just "FALL" Out).

 
OK GUYS: SO HERE'S where I Stand: Need Advice:

VIOFO's REPLY:


Sorry for the late reply,

So the new cam and the new rear cable are still not stable enough?

could you please do something to help fasten them?

or what is your suggestion to solve the issue?

could you please stick to 2CH or 1CH at least? wwhat can we do to remedy the situation?

We are waiting for your reply.

My Question TO YOU.

I am not sure what the solution is here to be honest. This is my conclusion as of now.

MMCX connections on New Camera are a bit "out of spec" to the right angle cables. Meaning the connection is not a "Perfect Fit". A good example: After playing with cables, I got them seated and "tapping" isn't an issue in their current position. Seems the millionth time of plugging and unplugging, they are sitting in a "good position".

On a 800KM drive, before reseating cables, I didn't go to "2 Channel" even with speed bumps, but I don't trust the camera if it can be so touchy.

So what do you think is the best route here?

1. Send me a brand new kit with front + rear + interior camera + a brand new set of right angle + straight cables

2. Mail me out Straight Cables to Test those with the New camera (See if Right Angle Cables Are issue). Although the right angle cables worked OK on my first camera.

Note: I have not run a heat test. Weather hasn't been cooperating!
 
@Nath

So I made a bit of an observation today. The connection issue appears to be situational / position based. I've played with this cables more than I would have liked. And yes the cables have been in firmly each time. But however the cables got placed back in this time, the touchiness doesn't seem to be present.

My theory is that the mmcx terminals between the two cameras might be a very slightly different spec (maybe supplier change?), since the old cables work fine with old camera. But the same old cables (and new 6m), to appear to be far more sensitive with the new camera. In that if the connection isn't "perfect" slight vibrations can cause channel drops.

But that in their current position, however I managed to get them into this position,, the connection this millionth time around, the cables seem to be perfectly situated and not "TAPPING" sensitive on new camera.

Here's the images @Nath Requested.
Sorry about the dog hair!

These are entirely different cables than what I have. I have noticed the GPS unit does not lock into place though. I keep checking it and have not had an issue of it sliding out, but it absolutely will not lock into place and only takes a slight push to losen it. I don't use GPS anyways. Less to incriminate myself with. My video shows nothing except footage. Yes, even if you do everything right, there is still that chance of incriminating yourself by putting that stuff up there. Not worth it. Still bugs me that it doesn't lock in, but since it has not been a problem I see no need to mess with it. My cables though, rock solid. I have to use a multitool to pull them out. I don't really understand why after the first time installing them you would need to remove them again, but if they are falling out due to a fault then understandable. Still, stop messing with them. lol.

As for the recording time issues being reported here, RMA. RMA immediately. The only other thing I could think of is monitoring your power draw and voltages. If you are getting cut off it's more likely due to the battery or the wiring and the voltage cut-off. But if that's not the issue, then RMA it.

It seems Viofo is attempting to use the first year of sales with the A139 as BETA versions and their costumers are lab rats. This is terrible. I gotta be honest here. From the issues I have seen, and their customer service, I will NOT be buying a VIOFO product again at this rate. Since I already have it, and mine functions, I will work with it. But if it fails I am not even going to bother with an RMA. I'll go somewhere else.
 
I don't really understand why after the first time installing them you would need to remove them again, but if they are falling out due to a fault then understandable. Still, stop messing with them. lol.

Well when I went to install the camera, and it immediately started doing 2 Channel Nonsense after immediately installing, it raised red flags. @Nath requested photos of the connectors, and I complied.
As for the recording time issues being reported here, RMA. RMA immediately. The only other thing I could think of is monitoring your power draw and voltages. If you are getting cut off it's more likely due to the battery or the wiring and the voltage cut-off. But if that's not the issue, then RMA it.

It seems Viofo is attempting to use the first year of sales with the A139 as BETA versions and their costumers are lab rats. This is terrible. I gotta be honest here. From the issues I have seen, and their customer service, I will NOT be buying a VIOFO product again at this rate. Since I already have it, and mine functions, I will work with it. But if it fails I am not even going to bother with an RMA. I'll go somewhere else.

See Update
 
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Sadly, my hopes were dashed. I ran the same test today in sunlight, and NEW CAMERA did overheat and result in Corrupted files.

I may go ahead and order a Samsung Evo Select in 128GB and see what happens. Make sure it's not Sandisk Cards at fault. But none the less I repeated the same overheating and corrupt file.

Yesterday went fine, but it was cloudy. So clearly car didn't heat up enough.
 
I placed order for a 128GB Samsung Evo Select. Won't arrive til next week. Going to run heat test with this. Make a final decision on how to proceed.

If cameras still overheat with Samsung Evo Select, then this is clearly not my doing. As @Sawmster states his doesn't overheat.
 
Ordered a Samsung Pro select 128GB. Same as @SawMaster uses.

I will test two things.

1. Other cards I used were a Sandisk A2 Extreme 256GB and Sandisk High Endurance 256GB. Will use the Samsung Pro Select 128GB and see if camera still overheats. And if it overheats, does the file being written still end with 3 corrupted files on the new camera. I've already confirmed like the old camera, the new camera DOES OVERHEAT in direct sun. But going to see if the Samsung Pro changes results.

2. After heat test will troubleshoot wire test. Might either keep old camera if it proves both old and new do same overheating. Or have viofo send me new cables. Want to test #1 first.

Will update when I get results.
 
So to update everyone both in my thread and here.

I've had 2 cameras now. My first one and the replacement. Tested a Sandisk A2 Extreme 256GB, Sandisk High Endurance, and a Samsung Pro Select 128GB. No matter the card, both cameras eventually overheat. And no matter the card (all 3), when the camera overheats, the last file being written is corrupt.

I suspect others aren't seeing this issue for a few reasons:

1. @SawMaster has a work van. Far more cubic space to heat up than a Volvo Sedan.
2. I own a darker color car. Darker colors heat up faster.
3. Others either don't park in direct sunlight to test overheating or aren't testing on the sunniest and hottest days.

Either way, both cameras act in the same manner, leading me to believe that after a bit in the very hot sun, the camera reaches a Thermal Max, and shuts down spontaneously before writing the final file.

Regards the cabling issues...

I'll post an update on that part a bit later.
 
Ok so played with wires. Seems some of my concerns may have been human error and a large portion is just these wires are fickle. So in order to get these wires to sit properly, the camera MUST be mounted on the mount first. If you plug in the wires BEFORE placing the camera on the mount, it seems they don't remain firmly in place. So moving camera to place on mount seems to be enough to screw connection

So I've tested this a few times. Put camera on mount. Plug in wires. Plug them in like I have on the picture. And they seem "OK".

I guess that tiny coax tip is very particular. Anyway, the connection and camera seem stable while driving.

Not had camera drop out to 2 Channel at all while driving. I've tapped on the wires, and the connection isn't dropping like before. I also went ahead and placed the LOCK on the camera after 2 days of testing.

I may ask Viofo for a second set of wires just to be on the safe side, but all seems to be OK.

End Result: Camera #2 still overheats like Camera #1. Wire situation seems resolved or at least satisfactorily to the point the camera doesn't lose channels or freeze while driving. And tapping won't replicate the problem I had before.




cam.jpg
 
In Sweden , the highest temperatures are in July I believe - and gets into the mid 20C. It seems strange that you get overheating in those outdoors temps (I know your cams on a windscreen and it gets miles hotter inside especially around noon.

England gets hotter than that at peak, I ain't seen anyone say heat is a major problem.

Or are you in a really hot country but using a VPN to say you're in Scandinavia?

And my cables have never caused an issue.

Asking for a friend :)
 
In Sweden , the highest temperatures are in July I believe - and gets into the mid 20C. It seems strange that you get overheating in those outdoors temps (I know your cams on a windscreen and it gets miles hotter inside especially around noon.

England gets hotter than that at peak, I ain't seen anyone say heat is a major problem.

Or are you in a really hot country but using a VPN to say you're in Scandinavia?

Asking for a friend :)

Everyone's had temperatures around 27-30C. Don't believe me, look it up. And that's been the temperature this has been tested in.

Hell, London last year broke record temps I believe, too.

Global warming is making places much hotter than before. And a car sitting in 27C in direct sun heats up very fast.
 
I know, global warming etc...One of mine fell from the window last week, but I soon stuck it back on.

Are you in or near Stockholm? It's 22C there now according to my phone.
 
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