Power magic pro does not turn off

Hillbilly

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You have it wired back to front then Firstly what make of car is it. Secondly what have you got the wires connected to.

Best way is to do it properly and connect it to two fuses with Addafuse taps.

How to do it Get a multimeter and find a fuse that stays on always. By always I mean check after about 40 mins that it is still on. Attach multimeter and lock up car and go away and if after 40 mins its still live use that one for yellow wire DONT USE AIRBAG FUSES Then try others with the key in ACC position Turn key off and see if you lose power If so use that one for the red wire Check for a screwhead that is earthed by shorting it to somewhere like a door hinge. DONT STICK WIRES DOWN THE SIDE OF FUSES. unless you have a speed dial to fire service.

I have 2 VW's that are really touchy to do and thats how I do mine Look like this but cant buy those type of fuses any more. They are in spare fuse slots that have power on one side and you can use an addafuse the same way you just dont need the bottom fuse in a slot like that
 

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nasty618

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Thank you, Hillbilly.

My installation does not involve a fuse box - because of their locations, I have to tap into known wires. I don't think the issue is with wiring.... The ACC wire is connected to a switched accessory source, the battery is to a constant on. As I mentioned, I checked everything several times with a multimeter. With car accessories and ignition both on and off, after periods of time. The issue is that the light stays on no matter what position the switch is in.

Wondering if my PMP box is faulty, any way to check that?
 

Hillbilly

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Disconnect the yellow wire and turn the car off lock it and wait
WHAT MAKE IS THE CAR Can make all the difference
 

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It's a 2006 Dodge SRT8, with a Lockpicked MyGig (a radio from a later year Dodge/Chrysler model). The fuse boxes in LX cars are one in the back and one under the hood, a bit too far for wiring the PMP. So I'm tapping into the lockpick wires, marked for continuous 12v out and accessory 12v. I've tested them with a multimeter and both wires function as labeled - "always on" and "on with accessories".

Pulled out the yellow wire as you suggested. The result: PMP didn't work - no light and switch did nothing.

With just the red wire in, the switch does function and light goes on and off when I flip it.

What's the verdict? :)
 

Hillbilly

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As already said the switch only cuts off the yellow always on feed which effectively disables parking mode. It DOES NOT shut down the whole unit

Does the red wire light it up with the car turned off and the key out If so is wrong feed

It should only come on with the ACC feed live as in key in and turned to ACC

The unit should then only work when car is switched on. If you have the red connected turn car on and see if camera comes on. If it doesnt return the unit as faulty
I sold mine last week so cant try it to check What i did find was that it wouldnt fire up without turning the car on as battery was obviously below the cutoff limit
 
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M8TJT

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How hard can it be to get three connections wrong?:eek:
 
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I have the same problem with my PMP not cutting power to my dashcam when the vehicle is fully turned off but the wiring seems fine. My PMP went out of warranty and I was going to get one for my other vehicle so I went ahead and got a 2nd one and swapped out the unit, leaving the wires in place. It wasn't the PMP itself, so I checked the wiring over and over again. The vehicle I have is a 2010 Honda Odyssey. I checked for continuity using a multimeter to make sure the two connections between the PMP and the fuses were good. They checked out fine. I also did the same for ground and it had a good connection. Then 3 months later here I am still looking for the solution. I guess my new PMP could be defective too? Unlikely but possible. Going to check the wiring again when the weather isn't so hot out there. I don't remember which circuits I used for each connection so I'll report back once I get a chance to work on it again. By the way, I used fuse taps with my setup. Thanks.
 

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Not trying to insult or wind you up, but are you absolutely 100% certain that you have the Red, Yellow and Black wires connected correctly?
Red to 12V switched by ignition key. {ACC(+)}
Yellow to 12V permanent supply. {BATT(+)}
Black to Ground. {GND}
 
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Not trying to insult or wind you up, but are you absolutely 100% certain that you have the Red, Yellow and Black wires connected correctly?
Red to 12V switched by ignition key. {ACC(+)}
Yellow to 12V permanent supply. {BATT(+)}
Black to Ground. {GND}
I'm not insulted at all. I will make 100% sure that I have them wired up that way (including the name of the circuit I used) when I take another look at it this weekend.

Also, is that a good way to check for a good connection by checking that you have continuity? Or is there another way to test that the wires are making proper contact? I'm still new at this electrical stuff.
 

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PMP= Power Magic Pro
BV = Blackvue Camera
I have a spare PMP and am having a 'play' on the bench. Due to note 3 below, my bench power supply is switched to a 13.5V output.
Notes:
1. Unless the Yellow wire is connected to a 12V supply, the PMP will not output 12V even if the Red wire is connected to a 12V supply.
2. If you just connect the Yellow wire to 12V with the PMP switched ON, the PMP will not output 12V unless you either switch it OFF then ON or put 12V on the Red wire (switch ON the ignition)
3. If the 12V supply is lower than the voltage set on the PMP (12 or 12.5), the PMP will not output 12V to the BV, giving the impression that it is faulty. On my test rig, if I switch the PMP voltage selector to 12V and apply 12V to the PMP, it will not switch on the BV, but if I increase the voltage to 13.5V, it fires up as expected. (or start the car to get the battery over 12 or 12.5V

4. With Yellow wire connected to permanent 12V and the PMP switched OFF:
When you connect the Red wire (ACC+) to 12V (switch the ignition ON), the 12V is immediately switched to the BV and it starts
When you remove the Red wire from the 12V supply (Switch the ignition OFF), the 12V is removed from the BV after a 5 second delay.
(Normal operation with PMP switched OFF)

5. With Yellow connected to permanent 12V and the Red not connected (Ignition switched OFF) :
When you switch ON the PMP, 12V is switched to the BV and remains at 12V (I assume until the timer runs out after 12 hours or whatever)
When you switch OFF the PMP, the 12v is removed from the BV immediately.
(This would be normal operation with the car ignition switched OFF)

6. With Yellow connected to permanent 12V and the Red connected to 12V (Ignition switched ON) :
The switch position on the PMP is irrelevant. as soon as you switch on the ignition, 12V is switched to the BV and remains at 12V (I assume until the timer runs out after 12 hours or whatever)
When you switch OFF the ignition, the 12v is removed from the BV after a 5 second delay.
(This would be normal operation with the car ignition is switched ON/OFF)

7. After reducing the input voltage to the PMP to 9V, there is a 5 second delay before the PMP switches OFF the voltage to the BV. But once it has switched it off and then the voltage is restored, you need to either power cycle the PMP or switch the ignition ON to get the BV to fire up.

8. At a supply voltage of 13.5V, my BV 550 takes about 250mA and about 420mA with the rear cam connected. I haven't tested the 750 2CH yet.

I'm going to do some temp checks with different SD cards in it later
 

jokiin

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Too many ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
7. After reducing the input voltage to the PMP to 9V, there is a 5 second delay before the PMP switches OFF the voltage to the BV. But once it has switched it off and then the voltage is restored, you need to either power cycle the PMP or switch the ignition ON to get the BV to fire up.
some people here were saying that it turns off immediately once it hits the voltage cutoff point, 5 seconds delay while a bit short still sounds more logical than instant off as some have been saying
 

M8TJT

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Nope, there is deffo a 5 second delay. I measured it several times. You can see that in 4. (Removal of ignition 12V) and 7. (Reduction of input voltage) there is a 5 second delay before switch off in both.
One thing I have not tested yet is that if the voltage is reduced then increased in less than 5 seconds, whether or not the PMP still shuts down the BV or recovers to full operation. In fact there seems little point in having a delay unless the O/P voltage is restored after a brief 'drop out' of the input voltage. That's a job for tomorrow morning.
If output recovery is achieved, then it may be possible to increase the delay if it is done with a simple R/C circuit, probably by increasing C.
Continued in a different thread HERE (Click)
 
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I'm looking at my PMP right now and tried the following to no avail (same result):

-Moved the ground wire to another bolt that touches the chassis/firewall.

-Replaced the wiring that came with the PMP with new wiring that came with my spare PMP. It's not the wires. I also had to redo the crimping of the fuse taps and made sure there was proper contact. The continuity test had already proven to me that this wasn't a problem anyway.

-Replaced the PMP itself and used same dip switch settings. It's not the PMP.

At this point it seems the problem is my vehicle.

I also purposely swapped the ACC and IGN wires (and associated fuses) to see if they came labeled incorrectly. That was not the case.

My PMP stopped working after I got a new battery installed. That's the only thing that I remember that changed before it seemingly went belly up. It's weird because everything else electrical in the vehicle seems to work properly.

I replaced the battery because it had bad cells (shown in the battery tester) and was under warranty. It wouldn't charge and I also found I had a parasitic drain from a relay that was stuck open in the A/C compressor circuit. So I kept waking up to a dead battery so my first instinct was to remove the PMP from my fusebox connections. I ended up replacing the relay as well as the battery and that problem went away. However I can't get the PMP to work since then.

Could it be possible I have a bad ground connection no matter where I attach the ground cable for the PMP? Could a battery connection under the hood cause a problem like this?

Thanks again for your help and also the extensive write-up on how the PMP works.
 

M8TJT

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OK then. Are you 100% sure that you have the DIP switches in the right position?
Having a dodgy earth (Ground) will stop the PMP/BV working at all, so it seems like that is OK. Unlikely to be your vehicle. Wrong connection is most likely as it seems unlikely that you have two duff PMPs.
You have likely tried this already, but please humour me, and I apologise if I sound patronising. That is not my intention.

1. Check the PMP voltage/time switches and set them UP, DOWN, UP, UP, DOWN. This is 12V with a 12 hour delay.
2. Switch OFF the PMP main switch (push the 'O' in)
3. Connect the Yellow wire to a permanent 12V live and the Red wire to a 12V ignition switched supply.
4. Switch ON the ignition (and start the engine if PMP/BV does not switch ON)
5. After the BV has started, switch off the ignition.
6. What should happen is the PMP/BV switches off after about a 5 second delay.
7. If it doesn't, check the voltage on the Red wire. (It should be zero volts)
8. Report back with your findings,
 
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I have it in the UP, UP (for 12.5v cut-off), UP, UP, DOWN (for 12hr delay). I even flipped them all down and back up to make the dip switches are actually in the positions they should be. When I was working on this yesterday I unplugged the ground wire and the PMP lost power, of course, When I plugged the ground back in the PMP was unable to be powered back up until I turned on the ignition. I also had the BV unplugged from the PMP since I was trying to make sure this device was working correctly first.

I need to go to the store and buy new fuse taps. I messed up the crimp connector on one of the wires yesterday. I hope to be able to work on this today. Thanks again and I appreciate the details in your instructions.

By the way, I forgot to mention this: for the ACC connection I used the driver power seat circuit which works when the car is off. For the IGN connection I used the sunroof circuit which only works when the car is on. With all the connections in place I tested the power seat and it worked (as expected) with the car off. Then I tested the moonroof and it did not work with the car off, so there should not have been any voltage in that circuit (or maybe not enough voltage? I will test today).
 
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M8TJT

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I have it in the UP, UP (for 12.5v cut-off), UP, UP, DOWN (for 12hr delay).
Set it for 12V to give it a chance of working without the engine running. You can set it back to 12.5V later.

When I was working on this yesterday I unplugged the ground wire and the PMP lost power, of course, When I plugged the ground back in the PMP was unable to be powered back up until I turned on the ignition.
That sounds OK. I just tried mine and it was the same.
I also had the BV unplugged from the PMP since I was trying to make sure this device was working correctly first.
Leave it conected so that the PMP has a load.
By the way, I forgot to mention this: for the ACC connection I used the driver power seat circuit which works when the car is off.
I'm not certain whether you have made a typo or not but the ACC + (RED) wire goes to an ignition switched circuit (say your sun roof) and the BATT + (YELLOW) wire goes to a permanent 12V live. The other thing to check is that does the supply to the RED wire actually go to zero volts with the ignition OFF? Check it with your multimeter, because some of the fuses are on the hot side of the ignition, with a relay further downstream doing the switching via the ignition.

I have the same problem with my PMP not cutting power to my dashcam when the vehicle is fully turned off but the wiring seems fine.
When you 'turn the car off' I assume that you mean turn the ignition off? When you do this the PMP should switch off the BV after about 5 seconds IF THE PMP IS SWITCHED OFF.

If the PMP is switched ON, then the BV will stay powered until either:
a. The battery voltage drops below 12 or 12.5V depending on your PMP setting.
OR
b. The time delay you have set on the PMP, say 12 hours, has run its course 12 hours later.

That is the whole object of the PMP when switched on.
 
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Sorry for taking so long to respond. I ran into a few problems lately, including one of the terminals on my multimeter broke so I had to get a replacement. I ordered the wrong size fuse taps, so I had to wait for those to come in. In the meantime I tried to just repair the broken one and found out my cordless soldering iron didn't have any butane in it. I managed to solder the wire using my cheap corded iron but that's when I found out the other fuse tap broke off where its wire meets the fuse holder, so I had to wait for the new fuse taps anyway. So it was one thing after another.

I did make a typo. What I meant was ACC I had it hooked up to sunroof and BATT to power seat.

By "turn the car off" I meant the ignition.

Before my multimeter terminal broke I was able to test one very important thing that was mentioned earlier:
turns out the sunroof circuit still had 12v on it with the ignition off even though the sunroof doesn't open or close with the ignition off. That is one very bad assumption that I made.

I was about to connect the ACC wire to the rear power window fuse, which I confirmed had 0v going through it with ignition off, but that's when I found the broken fuse tap. I got frustrated and waited for the stuff to come in.

I received all the replacement wires, fuel for my soldering iron (in case I need it), and I'm ready to tackle this again. I should be able to work on it tomorrow and report back. I'll be very happy once I get this working again because I have a power supply switch coming that will use a similar type of wiring for a raspberry pi that I'm setting up for the rear seat display.
 

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turns out the sunroof circuit still had 12v on it with the ignition off even though the sunroof doesn't open or close with the ignition off. That is one very bad assumption that I made.
It's fairly common for stuff to be like that especially fairly high power circuits that are switched by a relay. The main supply is constant but the energising voltage for the relay is ignition switched. My rear power adaptor is like that.
It's cheaper to replace a burnt out relay than the car's switch when the contacts have burnt out especially if it's one of the multi switches (Lights/indicators etc.).
 

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