Powercell 8 not charging

[Panzer Platform]

So I changed the 10amp fuse that is for the powercell and bam! It is charging again. Guess I should have tried that first.

Not to say I told you so, but that was my first post. lol
“Never” trust visual inspection of a fuse.
“Always” test suspect fuse with multimeter continuity check.
Check fuse with meter.

I wonder why it blew this fuse

1.)
This is why I do not recommend charging any dash cam battery pack directly through the fuse box with an add-a-fuse tap, (or any other “high amperage device”).
The battery pack should be charged on it’s own dedicated electrical circuit isolated from any other electrical loads.
Just like a Car Audio Amplifier, LED Light Bar, or any other “high current” car accessory.
2.)
This is why I do not recommended using the included 16AWG charging cable, and instead using 12AWG.

Both of these issues are factors of aggravation for malfunction, or damaging existing OEM / factory electrical wires & components, or worse case scenario starting a fire.
Robert has documented the PC8 routinely draws 14 Amps during periods of charging, even though the internal BMS is supposed to limit it to 10 Amps.
I documented a similar issue when charging with the BBMC AC/DC home charger.
Even though the internal BMS is supposed to limit charging current at 5 Amps on “low” I found it would draw more than 5 Amps causing the home charger to overheat, and shut down causing the PC8 to go “endless boot loop”.
This is why BBMC upgraded the 5 Amp home charger to an 8 Amp version.

Here is my video demonstration / explanation to BBMC about these two issues when I tested the PC8;

No matter how much I "rant" about these two issues it will always fall on deaf ears because it means all previous battery pack installations through the fuse box with the included 16AWG wire are "less than ideal".
OK, end rant. lol
@BlackboxMyCar @rcg530 @safedrivesolutions @Vortex Radar

 

[bod925]

Yes. Yes you did say that in the beginning lol. I didn't have another fuse to try until the 12awg fuse tap kit got delivered. I popped in one of the 10amp fuses into the existing setup and made this discovery. Guess I should keep a few spare fuses on hand.

Appreciate all your wisdom on this issue.
I am going to fix the wire gauge issue with making my own 12awg like you suggested.

The relay harness to the vehicle battery, not sure how to run wire from inside into the engine area. That is a bit beyond my skill level and available spare time. But maybe I'll just run the powercell on "low" mode and that will keep the amperage down enough to run directly from the fuse box. I know it charges slower but I'm not really finding parking mode as exciting as I imagined.

Between low mode and 12awg will help avoid overload and blowing another fuse, I hope.

 

[safedrivesolutions]

1.)
This is why I do not recommend charging any dash cam battery pack directly through the fuse box with an add-a-fuse tap, (or any other “high amperage device”).
The battery pack should be charged on it’s own dedicated electrical circuit isolated from any other electrical loads.
Just like a Car Audio Amplifier, LED Light Bar, or any other “high current” car accessory.

I agree with this. I had a customer ask us to use a fuse tap on a fuse box and we declined to do the job. We find high current wiring and we solder and 3m electrical tape it. We also use our own fuseholders. We have never had an issue this way.

2.)
This is why I do not recommended using the included 16AWG charging cable, and instead using 12AWG.

Both of these issues are factors of aggravation for malfunction, or damaging existing OEM / factory electrical wires & components, or worse case scenario starting a fire.
Robert has documented the PC8 routinely draws 14 Amps during periods of charging, even though the internal BMS is supposed to limit it to 10 Amps.
I documented a similar issue when charging with the BBMC AC/DC home charger.
Even though the internal BMS is supposed to limit charging current at 5 Amps on “low” I found it would draw more than 5 Amps causing the home charger to overheat, and shut down causing the PC8 to go “endless boot loop”.
This is why BBMC upgraded the 5 Amp home charger to an 8 Amp version.

I personally have to say that the battery pack i am testing has what I believe to be smaller wiring and it has no issues at all. Have had it installed in my vehicle for 2.5 years. They only draw 9amps of current. The cigarette lighter adaptors get really hot.

 

[Panzer Platform]

smaller wiring

The age old argument over small gauge wire (too thin) vs. heavy gauge is an argument of;
“How safe do you want your installation?”
Manufacturers include the absolute cheapest wire with their devices as a cost saving measure, (materials & size).
This is why they use “fake” tinned copper wire, or CCA (copper clad aluminum) instead of 100% OFC (pure copper wire).
Of course most consumers don’t know the difference so the manufacturers get away with it.
Just like how food items in the grocery store come in smaller containers but the price is the same, or higher.
The cause I’m fighting for is to make the installation as safe as possible using the thickest wire size available.
In this case the “industry standard” XT60 connectors max out at 12AWG.

Most car audio amplifiers do not come with power wire at all.
This is because they make a recommendation in the user manual, and leave it up to the consumer, or install professional to choose the “correct” size wire for the intended application.
This means if the amp gets cooked from “too thin” wiring, or the wires melt causing a car fire the amp manufacturer can not be held responsible, because they never included wiring in the first place.

This was my backup recommendation to BBMC PC8 & BlackVue B-130X about the included “too thin” charge cable.
Just don’t include a charge cable at all, and leave it up to the consumer, or install professional to select the correct size wire for the intended application.
So when it hits the fan, the manufacturer can’t be faulted.
OK sorry, end rant. Lol
-Chuck

 

[safedrivesolutions]

The age old argument over small gauge wire (too thin) vs. heavy gauge is an argument of;
“How safe do you want your installation?”
Manufacturers include the absolute cheapest wire with their devices as a cost saving measure, (materials & size).
This is why they use “fake” tinned copper wire, or CCA (copper clad aluminum) instead of 100% OFC (pure copper wire).
Of course most consumers don’t know the difference so the manufacturers get away with it.
Just like how food items in the grocery store come in smaller containers but the price is the same, or higher.
The cause I’m fighting for is to make the installation as safe as possible using the thickest wire size available.
In this case the “industry standard” XT60 connectors max out at 12AWG.

Most car audio amplifiers do not come with power wire at all.
This is because they make a recommendation in the user manual, and leave it up to the consumer, or install professional to choose the “correct” size wire for the intended application.
This means if the amp gets cooked from “too thin” wiring, or the wires melt causing a car fire the amp manufacturer can not be held responsible, because they never included wiring in the first place.

This was my backup recommendation to BBMC PC8 & BlackVue B-130X about the included “too thin” charge cable.
Just don’t include a charge cable at all, and leave it up to the consumer, or install professional to select the correct size wire for the intended application.
So when it hits the fan, the manufacturer can’t be faulted.
OK sorry, end rant. Lol
-Chuck

Its also the question of is it
Copper, cooper clad aluminum or other? Too many factors

 

[Nigel]

I personally have to say that the battery pack i am testing has what I believe to be smaller wiring and it has no issues at all. Have had it installed in my vehicle for 2.5 years. They only draw 9amps of current. The cigarette lighter adaptors get really hot.

Using "smaller wiring" will result in a voltage drop, which will slow the charge rate on most LiFePO4 battery packs, which for many people will mean less recording time.

It may still charge at an acceptable speed, but it is not correct to say that there are no issues.

 

[safedrivesolutions]

Using "smaller wiring" will result in a voltage drop, which will slow the charge rate on most LiFePO4 battery packs, which for many people will mean less recording time.

It may still charge at an acceptable speed, but it is not correct to say that there are no issues.

I have not measured the exact gauge of the wiring i could be wrong. I have had no issues with performance 2.5 years later. It still operates to factory specification. Coming from a car audio background where we would run 0gauge, 2 gauge, 4 gauge, and 8 gauge quite frequently to car audio amplifiers. The gauge of wiring compared to amperage drawn for a battery pack seems very good. But like i said earlier. It also comes down to is it true copper? Copper Clad Aluminum? How is it connected to the vehicle? Is the ground in a proper place? How is the power connection? Soldered? fuse taps? etc Many other factors.

I agree that having small wiring can cause a problem. I always like to say "Your System Is As Good As Your Weakest Link." You can have the best power wire in the world but if it is connected wrong it will not matter.